How to Be Smart with Money

How to Be Smart with Money.

Being smart with money doesn’t have to involve high risk investments or having thousands of dollars in the bank. No matter what your current situation is, you can be more financially savvy in your everyday life. Start by building a budget to help you stay within your means and prioritize your financial goals. Then, you can work on paying down your debt, building up your savings, and making better spending decisions.

Method 1 Managing Your Budget.
1. Set your financial goals. Understanding what you are working toward will help you build a budget to meet your needs. Do you want to pay down debt? Are you saving for a major purchase? Are you just looking to be more financially stable? Make your top priorities clear so that you can build your budget to fit them.
2. Look at your overall monthly income. A smart budget is one that doesn’t overextend your means. Start by calculating your total monthly income. Include not just the money you get from work, but any cash you get from things like side-hustles, alimony, or child support. If you share expenses with your partner, calculate your combined income to figure out a household budget.
You should aim to have your overall monthly spending not exceed what you bring in. Emergencies and unforeseen occasions happen, but try to set a goal of not using your credit card to cover non-necessary items when your bank accounts are low.
3. Calculate your necessary expenses. Your first priority in building a better budget should be those things that need to be paid every month. Paying these expenses should be your first priority, as these items are not only necessary for daily function, but could also damage your credit if you fail to pay them in full and on time.
Such expenses may include your mortgage or rent, utilities, car payments, and credit card payments, as well as things like your groceries, gas, and insurance.
Set your bills up on autopay to make them easy to prioritize. This way, the money comes right out of your account on the day the bill is due.
4. Factor in your non-essential expenses. Budgets work best when they reflect your daily life. Take a look at your regular, non-essential expenses and build them into your budget so that you can anticipate your spending. If you get a coffee every morning on the way to work, for example, throw that in your budget.
5. Look for places to make cuts. Creating a budget will help you identify things you can cut from your regular expenses and roll into your savings or debt payments. Investing in a good coffee pot and a quality to-go mug, for example, can really help you save long-term on your morning fix.
Don’t just look at daily expenses. Check things like your insurance policies and see if there are places you can scale back. If you are paying for collision and comprehensive insurance on an old car, for example, you may opt to scale back to just liability.
6. Track your monthly spending. A budget is a guideline for your overall spending habits. Your actual spending will vary each month depending upon your personal needs. Track your spending by using an expenses journal, a spreadsheet, or even a budgeting app to help you ensure that you are staying within your means each month.
If you do mess up or go over your budget goals, don’t beat yourself up. Use the opportunity to see if you need to revise your budget to include new expenses. Remind yourself that getting off-target happens to everyone occasionally, and that you can get to where you want to be.
7. Build some savings into your budget. Exactly how much you save will depend upon your job, your personal expenses, and your individual financial goals. You should aim to save something each month, though, whether that’s $50 or $500. Keep that money in a savings account separate from your primary bank account.
This savings should be separate from your 401(k) or any other investments that you have. Building a small general savings will help you protect yourself financially if an emergency comes up, such as a major repair around the house or unexpectedly losing your job.
Many financial experts recommend a target savings of 3-6 months’ worth of expenses. If you have a lot of debt you need to pay down, aim for a partial emergency fund of 1-2 months, then focus the rest of your cash on your debt.

Method 2 Paying Off Debts
1. Figure out how much you owe. To understand how to best pay down your debt, you first need to understand how much you owe. Add together all your debts, including credit cards, short-term loans, student loans, and any mortgages or auto financing you have in your name. Look at your total debt numbers to help you understand how much you owe, and how long it will truly take to pay it off.
2. Prioritize high-interest debts. Debts like credit cards tend to have higher interest rates than things like student loans. The longer your carry a balance on high interest debts, the more you ultimately pay. Prioritize paying down your highest interest debts first, making minimum payments on other debts and putting extra money into your top debt priorities.
If you have a short-term loan like a car title loan, prioritize paying that down as quickly as possible. Such loans can be devastating if not paid off in full and on time.
3. Go straight from paying off one debt to the next. When you pay off one credit card, don’t roll that payment amount back into your discretionary funds. Instead, roll the amount you were paying into your next debt.
If, for example, you finished paying down a credit card, take the amount you were putting toward your credit card and add it to the minimum payment for your student loans.

Method 3 Setting Up Savings.
1. Pick a savings goal. Saving tends to be easier when you know what you’re saving for. Try to set a goal, such as building an emergency fund, saving for a down payment, saving for a major household purchase, or building a retirement fund. If your bank will let you, you can even give your account a nickname such as “Vacation Fund” to help remind you of what you’re working toward.
2. Keep your savings in a separate account. A savings account is generally the easiest place to put your savings if you are just starting out. If you already have a solid emergency fund and have a reasonable amount to invest, such as $1,000, you may consider something like a certificate of deposit (CD). CDs make your money much harder to get to for a fixed period of time, but tend to have a much higher interest rate.
Keeping your savings separate from your checking account will make it harder to spend your savings. Savings accounts also tend to have a slightly higher interest rate than checking accounts.
Many banks will allow you to set up an automatic transfer between your checking and savings accounts. Set up a monthly transfer from your checking to your savings, even if it’s just for a small amount.
3. Invest raises and bonuses. If you get a raise, a bonus, a tax return, or another unexpected windfall, put it in your savings. This is an easy way to help boost your account without compromising your current budget.
If you get a raise, invest the difference between your budgeted salary and your new salary directly into your savings. Since you already have a plan to live off your old salary, you can use the new influx of cash to build your savings.
4. Dedicate your side gig money to your savings. If you work a side gig, build a budget based on your primary source of income and dedicate all your earnings from your side gig to your savings. This will help grow your savings faster while making your budget more comfortable.

Method 4 Spending Money Wisely.
1. Prioritize your needs. Start each budget period by paying for your needs. This should include your rent or mortgage, utility bills, insurance, gas, groceries, recurring medical expenses, and any other expenses you may have. Do not put any money toward non-necessary expenses until all of your necessary living costs have been paid.
2. Shop around. It can be easy to get in the habit of shopping in the same place repeatedly, but taking time shop around can help you find the best deals. Check in stores and online to look for the best prices for your needs. Look for stores that might be running sales, or that specialize in discount or surplus merchandise.
Bulk stores can be useful for buying things you use a lot of, or things that don't expire such as cleaning supplies.
3. Buy clothes and shoes out-of-season. New styles of clothes, shoes, and accessories generally come out seasonally. Shopping out-of-season can help you find better prices on fashion items. Shopping online is particularly useful for out-of-season clothes, as not all stores will have non-seasonal items.
4. Use cash instead of cards. For non-necessary expenses such as going out to eat or seeing a movie, set a budget. Withdraw the necessary amount of cash before you go out, and leave your cards at home. This will make it more difficult to overspend or impulse buy while you're out.
5. Monitor your spending. Ultimately, as long as you're not spending more than you bring in, you're on target. Regularly monitor your spending in whatever way works best for you. You may prefer to check your bank account every day, or you could sign up for a money-monitoring app such as Mint, Dollarbird, or BillGuard to help you track your spending.

00.13

How to Calculate Compound Interest

How to Calculate Compound Interest.

Compound interest is distinct from simple interest in that interest is earned both on the original investment (the principal) and the interest accumulated so far, rather than simply on the principal. Because of this, accounts with compound interest grow faster than those with simple interest. Additionally, the value will grow even faster if the interest is compounded multiple times per year. Compound interest is offered on a variety of investment products and also charged on certain types of loans, like credit card debt. Calculating how much an amount will grow under compound interest is simple with the right equations.

Part 1 Finding Annual Compound Interest.
1. Define annual compounding. The interest rate stated on your investment prospectus or loan agreement is an annual rate. If your car loan, for example, is a 6% loan, you pay 6% interest each year. Compounding once at the end of the year is the easiest calculation for compounding interest.
A debt may compound interest annually, monthly or even daily.
The more frequently your debt compounds, the faster you will accumulate interest.
You can look at compound interest from the investor or the debtor’s point of view. Frequent compounding means that the investor’s interest earnings will increase at a faster rate. It also means that the debtor will owe more interest while the debt is outstanding.
For example, a savings account may be compounded annually, while a pay-day loan can be compounded monthly or even weekly.
2. Calculate interest compounding annually for year one. Assume that you own a $1,000, 6% savings bond issued by the US Treasury. Treasury savings bonds pay out interest each year based on their interest rate and current value.
Interest paid in year 1 would be $60 ($1,000 multiplied by 6% = $60).
To calculate interest for year 2, you need to add the original principal amount to all interest earned to date. In this case, the principal for year 2 would be ($1,000 + $60 = $1,060). The value of the bond is now $1,060 and the interest payment will be calculated from this value.
3. Compute interest compounding for later years. To see the bigger impact of compound interest, compute interest for later years. As you move from year to year, the principal amount continues to grow.
Multiply the year 2 principal amount by the bond’s interest rate. ($1,060 X 6% = $63.60). The interest earned is higher by $3.60 ($63.60 - $60.00). That’s because the principal amount increased from $1,000 to $1,060.
For year 3, the principal amount is ($1,060 + $63.60 = $1,123.60). The interest earned in year 3 is $67.42. That amount is added to the principal balance for the year 4 calculation.
The longer a debt is outstanding, the bigger the impact of compounding interest. Outstanding means that the debt is still owed by the debtor.
Without compounding, the year 2 interest would simply be ($1,000 X 6% = $60). In fact, every year’s interest earned would be $60 if you did earn compound interest. This is known as simple interest.
4. Create an excel document to compute compound interest. It can be handy to visualize compound interest by creating a simple model in excel that shows the growth of your investment. Start by opening a document and labeling the top cell in columns A, B, and C "Year," "Value," and "Interest Earned," respectively.
Enter the years (0-5) in cells A2 to A7.
Enter your principal in cell B2. For example, imagine you are started with $1,000. Input 1000.
In cell B3, type "=B2*1.06" and press enter. This means that your interest is being compounded annually at 6% (0.06). Click on the lower right corner of cell B3 and drag the formula down to cell B7. The numbers will fill in appropriately.
Place a 0 in cell C2. In cell C3, type "=B3-B$2" and press enter. This should give you the difference between the values in cell B3 and B2, which represents the interest earned. Click on the lower right corner of cell C3 and drag the formula down to cell C7. The values will fill themselves in.
Continue this process to replicate the process for as many years as you want to track. You can also easily change values for principal and interest rate by altering the formulas used and cell contents.

Part 2 Calculating Compound Interest on Investments.
1. Learn the compound interest formula. The compound interest formula solves for the future value of the investment after set number of years. The formula itself is as follows: {\displaystyle FV=P(1+{\frac {i}{c}})^{n*c}}FV=P(1+{\frac  {i}{c}})^{{n*c}} The variables within the equation are defined as follows:
"FV" is the future value. This is the result of the calculation.
"P" is your principal.
"i" represents the annual interest rate.
"c" represents the compounding frequency (how many times the interest compounds each year).
"n" represents the number of years being measured.
2. Gather variables the compound interest formula. If interest compounds more often than annually, it is difficult to calculate the formula manually. You can use a compound interest formula for any calculation. To use the formula, you need to gather the following information.
Identify the principal of the investment. This is the original amount of your investment. This could be how much you deposited into the account or the original cost of the bond. For example, imagine your principal in an investment account is $5,000.
Locate the interest rate for the debt. The interest rate should be an annual amount, stated as a percentage of the principal. For example, a 3.45% interest rate on the $5,000 principal value.
In the calculation, the interest rate will have to be input as decimal. Convert it by dividing the interest rate by 100. In this example, this would be 3.45%/100 = 0.0345.
You also need to know how often the debt compounds. Typically, interest compounds annually, monthly or daily. For example, imagine that it compounds monthly. This means your compounding frequency ("c") would be input as 12.
Determine the length of time you want to measure. This could be a goal year for growth, like 5 or 10 years, or this maturity of a bond. The maturity date of a bond is the date that the principal amount of the debt is to be repaid. For the example, we use 2 years, so input 2.
3. Use the formula. Input your variables in the right places. Check again to make sure that you are inputting them correctly. Specifically, make sure that your interest rate is in decimal form and that you have used the right number for "c" (compounding frequency).
The example investment would be input as follows: {\displaystyle FV=\$5000(1+{\frac {0.0345}{12}})^{2*12}}FV=\$5000(1+{\frac  {0.0345}{12}})^{{2*12}}
Compute the exponent portion and the portion of the formula in parenthesis separately. This is a math concept called order of operations. You can learn more about the concept using this link: Apply the Order of Operations.
4. Finish the math computations in the formula. Simplify the problem by solving for the parts of the equation in parenthesis first, beginning with the fraction.
Divide the fraction within parentheses first. The result should be: {\displaystyle FV=\$5000(1+0.00288)^{2*12}}FV=\$5000(1+0.00288)^{{2*12}}
Add the numbers within parentheses. The result should be: {\displaystyle FV=\$5000(1.00288)^{2*12}}FV=\$5000(1.00288)^{{2*12}}
Solve the multiplication within the exponent (the last part above the closing parenthesis). The result should look like this: {\displaystyle FV=\$5000(1.00288)^{24}}FV=\$5000(1.00288)^{{24}}
Raise the number within the parentheses to the power of the exponent. This can be done on a calculator by entering the value in parentheses (1.00288 in the example) first, pressing the {\displaystyle x^{y}}x^{y} button, then entering the exponent (24 in this case) and pressing enter. The result in the example is {\displaystyle FV=\$5000(1.0715)}FV=\$5000(1.0715)
Finally, multiply the principal by the number in parentheses. The result in the example is $5,000*1.0715, or $5,357.50. This is the value of the account at the end of the two years.
5. Subtract the principal from your answer. This will give you the amount of interest earned.
Subtract the principal of $5,000 from the future value of $5357.50 to get $5,375.50-$5,000, or $357.50
You will earn $357.50 in interest over the two years.

Part 3 Calculating Compound Interest With Regular Payments.
1. Learn the formula. Compounding interest accounts can increase even faster if you make regular contributions to them, such as adding a monthly amount to a savings account. The formula is longer than that used to calculate compound interest without regular payments, but follows the same principles. The formula is as follows: {\displaystyle FV=P(1+{\frac {i}{c}})^{n*c}+{\frac {R((1+{\frac {i}{c}})^{n*c}-1)}{\frac {i}{c}}}}FV=P(1+{\frac  {i}{c}})^{{n*c}}+{\frac  {R((1+{\frac  {i}{c}})^{{n*c}}-1)}{{\frac  {i}{c}}}}[7]The variables within the equation are also the same as the previous equation, with one addition.
"P" is the principal.
"i" is the annual interest rate.
"c" is the compounding frequency and represents how many times the interest is compounded each year.
"n" is the number of years.
"R" is the amount of the monthly contribution.
2. Compile the necessary variables. To compute the future value of this type of account, you will need the principal (or present value) of the account, the annual interest rate, the compounding frequency, the number of years being measured, and the amount of your monthly contribution. This information should be in your investment agreement.
Be sure to convert the annual interest rate into a decimal. Do this by dividing the rate by 100. For example, using the above 3.45% interest rate, we would divide 3.45 by 100 to get 0.0345.
For compounding frequency, simply use the number of times per year that the interest compounds. This means annually is 1, monthly is 12, and daily is 365 (don't worry about leap years).
3. Input your variables. Continuing with the example from above, imagine that you decide to also contribute $100 per month to your account. This account, with a principal value of $5,000, compounds monthly and earns 3.45% annual interest. We will measure the growth of the account over two years.
The completed formula using this information is as follows: {\displaystyle FV=\$5,000(1+{\frac {0.0345}{12}})^{2*12}+{\frac {\$100((1+{\frac {0.0345}{12}})^{2*12}-1)}{\frac {0.0345}{12}}}}FV=\$5,000(1+{\frac  {0.0345}{12}})^{{2*12}}+{\frac  {\$100((1+{\frac  {0.0345}{12}})^{{2*12}}-1)}{{\frac  {0.0345}{12}}}}
4. Solve the equation. Again, remember to use the proper order of operations to do so. This means that you start by calculating the values inside of parentheses.
Solve for the fractions with parentheses first. This means dividing "i" by "c" in three places, all for the same result of 0.00288. The equation now looks like this: {\displaystyle FV=\$5,000(1+0.00288)^{2*12}+{\frac {\$100((1+0.00288)^{2*12}-1)}{0.00288}}}FV=\$5,000(1+0.00288)^{{2*12}}+{\frac  {\$100((1+0.00288)^{{2*12}}-1)}{0.00288}}
Solve the addition within the parentheses. This means adding the 1 to the result from the last part. This gives: {\displaystyle FV=\$5,000(1.00288)^{2*12}+{\frac {\$100((1.00288)^{2*12}-1)}{0.00288}}}FV=\$5,000(1.00288)^{{2*12}}+{\frac  {\$100((1.00288)^{{2*12}}-1)}{0.00288}}
Solve the multiplication within the exponents. This means multiplying the two numbers that are smaller and above the closing parentheses. In the example, this is 2*12 for a result of 24. This gives: {\displaystyle FV=\$5,000(1.00288)^{24}+{\frac {\$100((1.00288)^{24}-1)}{0.00288}}}FV=\$5,000(1.00288)^{{24}}+{\frac  {\$100((1.00288)^{{24}}-1)}{0.00288}}
Solve the exponents. This means raising the amount within parentheses to the result of the last step. On a calculator, this is done by entering the value in parentheses (1.00288 in the example), pressing the {\displaystyle x^{y}}x^{y} key, and then entering the exponent value (which is 24 here). This gives: {\displaystyle FV=\$5,000(1.0715)+{\frac {\$100(1.0715-1)}{0.00288}}}FV=\$5,000(1.0715)+{\frac  {\$100(1.0715-1)}{0.00288}}
Subtract. Subtract the one from the result of the last step in the right part of the equation (here 1.0715 minus 1). This gives: {\displaystyle FV=\$5,000(1.0715)+{\frac {\$100(0.0715)}{0.00288}}}FV=\$5,000(1.0715)+{\frac  {\$100(0.0715)}{0.00288}}
Multiply. This means multiplying the principal by the number is the first set of parentheses and the monthly contribution by the same number in parentheses. This gives: {\displaystyle FV=\$5,357.50+{\frac {\$7.15}{0.00288}}}FV=\$5,357.50+{\frac  {\$7.15}{0.00288}}
Divide the fraction. This gives {\displaystyle FV=\$5,357.50+\$2,482.64}FV=\$5,357.50+\$2,482.64
Add. Finally, add the two number to get the future value of the account. This gives $5,357.50 + $2,482.64, or $7,840.14. This is the value of the account after the two years.
5. Subtract the principal and payments. To find the interest earned, you have to subtract the amount of money you put into the account. This means adding the principal, $5,000, to the total value of contributions made, which is 24 contributions (2 years* 12 months/year) times the $100 you put in each month for a total of $2,400. The total is $5,000 plus $2,400, or $7,400. Subtracting $7,400 from the future value of $7,840.14, you get the amount of interest earned, which is $440.14.
6. Extend your calculation. To really see the benefit of compound interest, imagine that you continue adding money monthly to the same account for twenty years instead of two. In this case, your future value would be about $45,000, even though you will have only contributed $29,000, meaning that you will have earned $16,000 in interest.

FAQ.
Question : What does "to the power of" mean?
Answer : "To the power of" refers to a particular numerical exponent. It is a multiplication in which a number appears as a factor that many times. For example, 2 to the power of 1 equals 2. 2 to the power of 2 equals 2x2, or 4, and 2 to the power of 3 is 2 x 2 x 2, or 8.
Question : How do I find the compound interest on a 29,870 loan at 6% interest?
Answer : First take out the amount by the formulae: principle(1+ r/100) to the power n (number of years), then take out the ci by subtracting the principle from the amount.
Question : What do I type on a calculator to find compound interest?
Answer : Compound interest can be calculated in several ways. The most common is to say that A=Pe^(rt) where P is the initial amount, "e" is a constant around 2.71, "r" is the interest rate (i.e. 7% would be entered in as 0.07), "t" is the duration in which the interest is being calculated in years and "A" is the final amount.
Question : How do I know if it's better to owe interest on something or to pay a lump sum at no interest?
Answer : Cost/value analysis. Calculate the total you'll pay under both methods and find the difference. Then compare that difference to the value of buying now (with a loan) versus later (lump sum).
Question : How do I find the future value and the compound interest if £4000 is invested for 5 years at 42% p.a?
Answer : Principal=$4000, n=5, R=42%,0.42. The formula: FV=PV(1+r)r aise power n and substitute the value.
Question : How do I calculate principal in compound interest?
Answer : Principal = fv = p(1 + i/c)ⁿc. Formula for principal in compound interest (1 + R/100), where R = rate.

Tips.

You can also calculate compound interest easily using an online compound interest calculator. The US Government hosts a good one at https://www.investor.gov/tools/calculators/compound-interest-calculator.
A quick rule of thumb to find compound interest is the "rule of 72." Start by dividing 72 by the amount of the interest your are earning, for example 4%. In this case, this would be 72/4, or 18. This result, 18, is roughly the number of years it will take for your investment to double at the current interest rate. Keep in mind that the rule of 72 is just a quick approximation, not an exact result.[8]
You can also use these calculations to perform "what-if" calculations that can tell you how much you will earn with a given interest rate, principal, compounding frequency, or number of years.

05.21

How to Get a Small Business Loan

How to Get a Small Business Loan. 

Whether you’re planning to expand an existing business or just now getting one off the ground, a small business loan can give you the financial support you need. Not all businesses can get a small business loan, so you need to take special care when applying for one. Make sure your credit history is as strong as possible, and search for lenders. Lenders will want to see numerous financial documents, so gather them ahead of time. Although getting a small business loan takes a lot of work, it is possible.

Part 1 Improving Your Credit Profile.
1. Pull your personal credit score. Most lenders will look at your personal credit history, even when you apply for a business loan. For this reason, obtain your credit score and check whether it’s high enough to qualify for the best interest rates. Generally, you’ll need a score above 680. You can get your credit score in the following ways:
Check your credit card statement. Many credit card companies now give their customers their FICO score.
Buy your FICO score for $20 at myfico.com.
Use a free website, such as CreditKarma.com or Credit Sesame.com.
2. Obtain a copy of your personal credit report. Errors on your credit report can pull down your credit score. In the U.S., you can get a free copy of your credit report each year from the three major Credit Reporting Agencies (CRAs). Don’t contact the CRA’s individually. Instead, visit annualcreditreport.com or call 1-877-322-8228. All three credit reports will be sent to you.
3. Remove inaccurate information from your credit report. Highlight any errors and contact the CRA that has the wrong information. Common errors include accounts listed that don’t belong to you or accounts inaccurately listed as in default.
You can contact the CRA directly through its website. If the inaccurate information appears on more than one credit report, you only need to contact one CRA, which will alert the other two.
It can take up to 60 days to remove inaccurate information.
4. Improve your credit score. Paying down your balances is the fastest way to improve your credit score. Tackle high-interest debts first, such as credit card debts. Send every monthly payment on time and pay at least the minimum. You should see a slow but steady improvement in your credit score.
Avoid taking out a new credit card, which will temporarily hurt your score. Instead, you can ask for an increase in the credit limit on one or more cards.
Unfortunately, there’s no quick fix for improving your credit score, and you should avoid any company promising to improve your score fast. These companies are often scammers.
5. Build your business credit. Lenders will also look at your business credit profile. Start building your business credit history by obtaining a D-U-N-S number from Dun & Bradstreet. You can get it for free by registering at their website.
Your creditors should report your payment history to Dun & Bradstreet. If not, list them as trade references. Dun & Bradstreet will then follow up and collect payment information.
Your business credit report will contain information about court judgments or liens against your business. You can boost your business credit by paying off any liens and judgments.

Part 2 Identifying Loans and Potential Lenders.
1. Determine the type of loan you need. There are several types of business loans you can get. You should identify the type you need before talking to a lender. Consider the following options.
Line of credit. You can draw from a credit line whenever you’re short of cash. For example, you might need money to make payroll or pay a vendor. You then pay back what you drew on your credit line. A line of credit is a lot like a credit card.
Installment loan. You can get an installment loan to expand operations. You pay it back in equal monthly installments over one to seven years.
Equipment loan. You get a loan to buy equipment, and the lender takes a security interest in the equipment until the loan is paid back. If you default on your loan, the lender seizes the equipment.
2. Stop into banks. Some banks are hesitant to lend to small businesses, but you still should stop in and talk to a loan officer. Discuss your business and ask for the bank’s requirements. You should stop in at least a month before you intend to apply.
Visit banks you’ve done business with as well as banks with whom you have no prior relationship. However, local community banks are more likely to lend to a small business than a large national bank.
3. Check with credit unions. Credit unions have increased the number of business loans they make, so they are a good option for small business owners. You’ll need to become a member of the credit union before you can apply for a business loan, but setting up an account shouldn’t be too burdensome. Credit unions typically offer better rates and lower fees than traditional banks.
4. Research online lenders. Online lending has exploded over the past few years and is a good option if your credit isn’t perfect. You can find online lenders at different aggregator sites, such as LendingTree and Fundera.
There are many online scammers, so thoroughly research online lenders. Look up the business with the Better Business Bureau and Google the company to check for complaints. Only do business with an online lender that has a street address.
5. Research government-backed loans. In many jurisdictions, the government will guarantee loans. This means they agree to pay back a certain percentage of the loan if the borrower defaults. Because of this guarantee, you generally get more favorable interest rates and repayment terms.
In the U.S., the Small Business Administration (SBA) guarantees small business loans. It’s most popular loan program is the 7(a) program which guarantees up to $5 million in loans. 7(a) loans can be used to build a new business or expand an existing one.
Even though the SBA guarantees the loan, you still apply with a bank. Talk to the bank about whether it is experienced with SBA loans and ask if it is part of the SBA Preferred Lender Program (PLP).
6. Ask friends or family for a loan. The people who know you the best might be willing to loan your business money. Approach your friends and family in the same manner you would a bank. Provide them with a copy of your business plan and your financial documents.
You can agree to pay interest, which will show that you are serious about repaying the loan. In the U.S., the interest rate shouldn’t be higher than the maximum allowed in your state, but it should be at least the federal funds rate, which you can find at the IRS website.
Also draft a promissory note and sign it, which will make the loan official.

Part 3 Gathering Required Information.
1. Create a personal financial statement. Every owner who owns at least 20% of your business should create a personal financial statement. Financial statements contain information about your assets, such as cash, mutual funds, certificates of deposits, and real estate. They also identify all liabilities owed to lenders, creditors, and the government.
2. Pull together business financial documents. Lenders will want to see your business balance sheet, profit and loss statement, and cash flow statement. If you need help creating these documents, consult with an account.
Ideally, your financial statements should be audited by a certified public accountant. Ask another business owner if they would recommend their CPA, or contact your nearest accounting society to obtain a referral.
3. Collect other required information. Lenders want a complete picture of your business, so they will require plenty of paperwork. Gather this ahead of time so that the application process goes smoothly. Get the following.
Personal tax returns for the past three years.
Recent personal bank statements.
Business tax returns for the past three years.
Recent business bank statements.
Resumes for each owner and member of management.
Business leases.
Articles of Organization (if an LLC) or Incorporation (if a corporation).
Franchise agreement (if applicable).
4. Show you have the necessary down payment. Generally, you need a cash down payment of 20%. If you hope to borrow $100,000, then you should have $20,000 in cash. Make sure that you have bank records showing the necessary down payment.
5. Draft a business plan. Your business plan lays out where your business is headed in the next few years and how you plan to get there. Lenders want to see a solid business plan before they will make a loan. Your business plan should identify your target market, marketing plan, management, and financial projections.
Some lenders want your business plan to contain specific information. Stop into the bank before applying and ask about their specific requirements.
Business plans can be hard to write. In the U.S., you can get help at your nearest Small Business Development Center, which you can find at https://www.sba.gov/tools/local-assistance/sbdc.
6. Document any collateral. Some lenders won’t give you a loan unless you pledge assets as collateral. Collateral protects lenders since they can seize the assets if you default on your loan. Common forms of collateral include inventory, heavy equipment, accounts receivables, and your home.
You should document the location and condition of the collateral. If possible, hire an appraiser to value the collateral.

Part 4 Applying for Your Loan.
1. Fill out your application. Each lender’s application will be slightly different. However, most will ask your reasons for applying for the loan, as well as the identity of your management team. Also identify any suppliers you will be buying assets from.
Each lender will pull your credit report, which will ding your credit score. However, all credit pulls in a two-week window will count as a single pull, so plan accordingly.
2. Wait to hear back. You should hear back within two to four weeks. If you want, you can call once a week and ask for an update on your application status. The lender might need more documentation, so provide it as quickly as possible.
About 80% of applicants for small business loans are rejected, so don’t be surprised if you get turned down. Ask any lender who rejects you to explain why. For example, you might need to save a larger down payment or draft a better business plan.
If no lender will give you a loan, consider other forms of funding, such as getting a business credit card.
3. Review the loan terms. Any lender that approves you should provide a term sheet which contains the details of the loan—the loan period, the annual percentage rate, and fees. Make sure you are comfortable with the terms.
You probably will need to personally guarantee the loan. This means that if you stop making payments, the lender can come after your personal assets, such as your car or home.
4. Close on the loan. Sign the term sheet or commitment letter and return it to the lender. The lender will then schedule a closing, which usually happens 45-60 days later. If your loan is guaranteed by the SBA, you’ll work with the loan officer to gather the necessary documents to submit. At the closing, you will review and sign a variety of documents before receiving your loan proceeds.

FAQ.

Question : Where can I find investors for small business?
Answer : If you're in the U.S., contact your nearest Chamber of Commerce or Small Business Development Center. They might know of local investors who are interested in small businesses.
Question : Are there any charities the will help me start a business?
Answer : You should start looking into crowdfunding websites. If people like your product or service, they'll donate money. Sometimes you can give the donators your product/service at a discounted price as an incentive.

21.42

How to Protect Your Finances when Your Spouse Files for Bankruptcy.

How to Protect Your Finances when Your Spouse Files for Bankruptcy.

When your spouse files for bankruptcy, the bankruptcy should not affect your credit score. However, you may still be affected in other ways. For example, you will still have to pay off joint debts. Also, the bankruptcy trustee can seize any property your spouse owns, even if you are a joint owner. Accordingly, you and your spouse should carefully consider which bankruptcy is best for the family or whether you should pursue a non-bankruptcy option.



Part 1 Identifying Joint and Separate Property.

1. Identify all property you and your spouse own. When your spouse files for bankruptcy, they will have to list all of their property on a schedule and report it. The trustee uses this information to determine the size of the bankruptcy estate. This information is important because the trustee may be able to force your spouse to sell property in order to pay their creditors. The less property your spouse owns, the better off they will be.

Go through your possessions and estimate how much the property is worth. Also figure out who owns it.

As a spouse, you want to be on the lookout for property you jointly own with your spouse. Unless this property is exempt, it goes into your spouse's estate, which means you might lose it depending on the bankruptcy your spouse files.

2. Check if you live in a community property state. The ownership of certain property may depend on the state where you are living. Some states are “community property” states, and this means that any property you or your spouse acquired during the marriage is owned equally by both of you.

For example, you might have bought a car. In a community property state, the car is generally considered the property of both you and your spouse—regardless of whether your spouse is on the title.

The following are community property states: Arizona, California, Idaho, Louisiana, Nevada, New Mexico, Texas, Washington, and Wisconsin. Community property laws also apply in some situations in Alaska.

Because community property laws differ, you should work closely with a lawyer in your state to identify all property that will be counted as part of the bankruptcy estate.

3. Determine ownership in a common law state. If you don't live in a community property state, then you live in a common law state. In common law states, the owner is generally the person whose name is on the title. If your name alone appears on the title, then the asset probably will not be included in the bankruptcy estate.

If both names are on the title, then you and your spouse both own half of the asset and the asset will have to be listed as part of the bankruptcy estate.

The trustee might be able to force a sale of the asset if they can convince the judge that the benefit of selling the asset outweighs any detriment you will face. However, the trustee will still have to pay you the full-value of your half of the asset. The trustee can only use the portion your bankrupt spouse owned to pay their creditors.

4. Check if you own your home in “tenancy by the entirety.” This is a form of ownership in which the asset is owned by the marriage. Many couples own their home in tenancy by the entirety. Depending on your state, assets owned in this manner are exempted from the bankruptcy estate.

5. Identify bankruptcy exemptions. You can exempt property from being counted as part of your spouse's estate. Each state has bankruptcy exemptions which you can use. The federal government also has a list of exemptions. In some states, you can choose between the state or federal exemptions, whereas other states will require that you use the state exemptions.

In Missouri, for example, you can exempt up to $15,000 in a home that you live in or up to $5,000 in a mobile home. You can also exempt up to $3,000 in a motor vehicle.

Say you and your spouse jointly own a car in Missouri. If the car is worth $16,000, then your spouse has $8,000 in the car. Only $3,000 is exempt. Accordingly, the trustee might want to sell the car and use the $5,000 to pay off creditors. If the trustee sells the car, they must pay the spouse who didn't file for bankruptcy $8,000.

In some states, you can double an exemption if you file a joint bankruptcy petition so long as you both own the property. For example, if the state allows you to exempt $3,000 in a car, then you can exempt $6,000 if you and your spouse own it together.

6. Avoid transferring property. You might think you can protect your assets by having your spouse transfer them before filing for bankruptcy. If you live in a common law state, you might think you can make the transfer into your name so that you hold title to all of the family property and your spouse holds only the debts individually. Unfortunately, this tactic won't work.

Instead, your spouse must report all transfers. If your spouse transferred the property during the two years before they filed for bankruptcy, then the trustee can get the property back.

Your spouse will also get in trouble if they try to hide the transfer. Everyone files a bankruptcy petition under penalty of perjury. If caught lying, your spouse could be prosecuted and have the entire bankruptcy cancelled.



Part 2 Handling Joint Debts.

1. Identify your joint debts. You and your spouse might have joint debts. This means that you both have agreed to be 100% responsible for the full debt. Accordingly, if your spouse files for bankruptcy, you are not relieved of your responsibility for the debt. Although your spouse will have their obligation discharged, your obligation will not be. You will still remain responsible for the entire amount. Joint debts can be formed in the following ways.

You and your spouse took out the debt together.

You cosigned on a loan for your spouse.

You live in a community property state and you or your spouse took out a debt during the marriage.

2. Continue to make payments on your joint debts. If you have a joint debt—say, for your car—then you must continue to make payments on it, even if you are the spouse who didn't file for bankruptcy. If you stop, then your credit score will take a hit because your missed payments will be reported to the credit reporting agencies.

3. Consider filing a joint bankruptcy petition. You have the option of filing for bankruptcy along with your spouse. By doing so, you can discharge joint debts.[12] After a discharge, neither you nor your spouse is responsible for the joint debt.

Of course, a bankruptcy stays on your credit report for several years, and neither you nor your spouse will probably be able to secure new credit in the near future.

Nevertheless, a joint bankruptcy can be an excellent option if you have high joint debts which you have no way of paying off in the future. A joint bankruptcy can free you and your spouse of these crushing joint debts.



Part 3 Choosing the Right Bankruptcy.

1. Identify the different types of bankruptcy. U.S. law provides many different types of bankruptcies, but the two most common for individuals are Chapter 7 and Chapter 13. You should analyze which is best for you, depending on your circumstances.

Chapter 7. This is called a “liquidation” bankruptcy. In a Chapter 7, your spouse can wipe out all of their debts. However, in order to get that benefit, they generally must sell non-exempt property and use the proceeds to pay their creditors.

Chapter 13. In a Chapter 13, the debtor gets to keep their property. Instead of selling it, they will pay back creditors for three to five years. At the end of the repayment period, any remaining unsecured debts (like credit cards) will be forgiven. Chapter 13 is a good option if you have a lot of non-exempt property that is jointly owned.

Joint bankruptcy petition. A joint bankruptcy petition may be the best option if you and your spouse have large joint debts. You can file both Chapter 7 and 13 jointly.

2. Meet with an attorney. Only a qualified bankruptcy attorney can analyze your situation and identify the best course of action. You should get a referral to a bankruptcy attorney by contacting your local or state bar association. Once you have a referral, call up the attorney and schedule a consultation. Ask how much the fee will be.

Your attorney can help you think through which bankruptcy to file—or whether a different alternative would be best.

3. Consider alternatives to bankruptcy. Your spouse should consider other options. These options might be better because they will impact your spouse's credit score less severely. Also, you don't jeopardize losing property. Common alternatives include.

Get a debt consolidation loan. Sometimes you can get a low-interest loan which you use to pay off all debts. You then have one payment to make.

Transfer debts to low interest credit cards. Many credit cards give 12-month grace periods for balance transfers. Interest doesn't accrue until the grace period ends.

Create a repayment plan with your creditors. They might be willing to work with you, especially if you mention that you are thinking of filing for bankruptcy. In bankruptcy, unsecured creditors rarely get paid back 100% of what they are owed. For this reason, they may be willing to reduce the interest rate or extend payments over a long period of time so that you don't file for bankruptcy.

Use a credit counselor. Credit counseling services can help you negotiate with creditors and then consolidate debt. These counselors also help you come up with repayment plans you can afford.



Question : If my wife files bankruptcy, what happens to our jointly-owned house? How does this affect my loan on the house?

Answer : In a bankruptcy, all your debts are listed against all your assets. If your wife does not have sufficient assets to pay for her debts, then her half of the house can be seized. It can either be transferred as an asset to a creditor, or (forcibly) liquidated. But if the bank sells your house, you have to get your share. I.e. only her share can be seized. For a detailed calculation, contact an accountant.

06.36

How to Calculate an Amount to Be Financed

How to Calculate an Amount to Be Financed.

The full price of a major purchase such as a house, boat or car is rarely financed. Most lenders for these types of loans require a down payment of some sort, usually expressed as a percentage. Additionally, mortgage loans list a different figure, "amount financed," which does not include prepaid fees paid to the lender. Knowing how to calculate an amount to be financed will help you make informed consumer decisions.



Part 1 Calculating a Commercial Loan Amount to be Financed.

1. Determine the selling price. For a vehicle, boat, or another type of commercial loan purchase this will be the amount you agree to pay for your new acquisition. It does not include other aspects of the deal such as the trade-in allowance, fees, taxes, and other closing costs.

2. Subtract any net trade-in allowance. For auto or boat purchases, among others, a dealer may offer a trade-in allowance or credit for giving them your old car or boat when you buy a new one. The value of this item, or a credit provided by the dealer, is then subtracted from what you owe on your new purchase. The net trade-in allowance is found by subtracting the amount still owed on your trade from the trade-in allowance offered by the dealership.

If the trade-in is high enough, dealers don't typically require an extra payment, such as a down payment.

Some dealers may allow you to use the trade-in value of your old vehicle to cover the required down payment on a new one (assuming the old one holds enough value).

3. Account for any cash rebates that are applied to the purchase price of the item. Dealers may also offer cash rebates as a way to incentivize purchases. These cash rebates are simply subtracted from the purchase price at closing. They also do not need to be included in the amount to be financed. Rebates may be provided to certain buyers, like students or military veterans, or may be specific to certain vehicles.

4. Settle on a loan amount. The amount left after rebates and trade-ins is the the amount owed. This amount must be either paid in full or borrowed from a lender and paid off in installments over time. From here, you can calculate the down payment if the lender requires one. For example, a lender might require 10 or 20 percent down on your purchase. Your loan amount is then the amount remaining after the down payment is subtracted out.

5. Use the loan amount as your amount financed. "Amount financed" is a term that is specific to home loans. All other loans simply refer to the amount financed as the total amount of the loan provided to the borrower. For these types of loans, simply use the loan amount after the down payment as calculated in this part as your amount financed.



Part 2 Determining the Amount Financed for a Mortgage Loan.

1. Negotiate a price for the asset with the seller. For a home, this will be your accepted offer price. For example, you might talk a homeowner down to selling a property for $100,000.

2. Subtract any deposits. Home purchases may have required a "good faith" deposit. Other purchases may also require a deposit be made while bidding on or reserving the item. This deposit is typically paid upon submission of an offer to purchase. This money is then subtracted from the purchase price, as you have already paid it.

Deposits are either returned (depending upon terms) or converted into the down payment amount and/or closing costs.

For example, if you put in a $3,000 good faith deposit on a $100,000 home, you would subtract this from the $100,000 to get $97,000.

3. Finalize the loan amount. The portion of the original purchase price remaining after these deductions is your loan amount, assuming you are planning on financing the purchase. This amount must be borrowed from a lender and then repaid over a period of time per a loan agreement. The loan amount is the amount borrowed from the lender, not the amount that will eventually be repaid in total, which also includes interest expenses.

4. Deduct the down payment amount. The down payment is paid in full upon closing the sale. It is generally a percentage of the total purchase price and is designed to provide security for the lender in the event of default. Therefore, it is not included in the amount financed.

Many mortgage lenders require 20 percent down on a real estate transaction, although you may be able to secure an FHA-backed mortgage requiring as little as 5 percent down payment. A lower loan balance results in less interest expense and the possible requirement of mortgage insurance.

A lower downpayment is expected on government- guaranteed loans such as FHA or VA because the lender has recourse to the Federal government in the event of default.

For example, if you paid a 20 percent down payment on the $100,000 house purchase, which would be $20,000, you would subtract this from your total.

Your good faith deposit may be applied towards your down payment. This means that the loan amount would still be the purchase price minus the down payment, which is $80,000 in this case.

5. Understand how amount financed differs from the loan amount. "Amount financed" is a term set by the 1968 Truth in Lending Act to describe how much credit is provided to a borrower when they take out a home loan. It is calculated by subtracting prepaid fees and finance charges from the loan amount, since these fees are paid at closing simultaneously with the execution of the loan documents. This means that the amount financed is always less than the actual loan amount. The amount financed is provided to borrowers on the Truth in Lending Disclosure Statement, which is supplied after you apply for a home loan.

6. Add up prepaid fees. Prepaid fees are subtracted from the loan amount to arrive at the amount financed. These fees include prepaid points, homeowners association fees, mortgage insurance, and escrow company fees. They also include lender fees like underwriting fees, tax service, process fees, and prepaid interest. Add all of these fees up to arrive a total prepaid fees amount.

7. Subtract total prepaid fees from the loan amount. Subtract all of the prepaid fees from the loan amount to get your amount financed. This information will also be available on your Truth in Lending Disclosure Statement.[9]



Part 3 Using the Amount Financed.

1. Compare different lenders. If you have the amount financed for a mortgage loan, you can use this information to compare different lenders by looking at the associated fees and interest rates. This information is provided on the Truth in Lending Disclosure Statement, which is provided by all lenders to loan applicants. If you instead are financing another purchase, you can use your amount of financing required to apply to a variety of loans and look for the best combination of fees and interest rate.

2. Calculate the amount of interest you will pay. Your loan will likely be charged compound interest as you pay it off. Compound interest paid increases with the loan duration, the interest rate, and the compounding frequency (how often the compound interest is calculated each year). When you have the amount financed, you can use online interest calculators to determine how much interest you will pay on loans with different loan terms. A longer, higher-interest loan will end up costing you much more money in the long run than a shorter-term, low-interest loan.

For more information, see how to calculate interest payments.

3. Calculate loan payments. If you know how much you need to borrower (your loan amount), you can use this information to check for loan rates online. Check loan aggregator sites to find interest rates for the type and size of loan that you need. Then, input this information into an online loan calculator to figure out what your monthly payments might be. The Financial Industry Regulatory Authority (FINRA) provides a good calculator at http://apps.finra.org/Calcs/1/Loan.

4. Assess your ability to afford a purchase. Once you have an idea of the monthly loan payments, you can use this information to figure out how much you can afford to take out in a loan. Assess your ability to afford the loan by starting with your monthly after-tax income. Then, subtract any existing debt payments (mortgage, auto, etc.), monthly expenses like utilities and food, and savings or contributions to an emergency fund. The amount left is money that you can afford to pay towards a new loan's monthly payment.

Most financial planners suggest limiting house payments plus taxes and insurance to 25 to 28 percent of take-home income.

For example, if your household net income is $7,000 per month, your total outlay for housing should be no more than $1,960 per month.

5. Determine mortgage APR. Your actual mortgage annual percentage rate (APR) is calculated using your amount financed, rather than the loan amount. That is, your actual APR will be higher than the interest rate listed on your loan. To calculate your actual APR, find your monthly payment by using your stated interest rate, loan term, and loan amount and entering them into a loan calculator. Then, record your monthly payment and find a loan calculator that allows you to input your monthly payment, loan duration, and loan amount and receive an interest rate as the output. The output will be your actual APR.

A good calculator for this purpose can be found at http://www.thecalculatorsite.com/finance/calculators/interest-rate-calculator.php.



Question : Gomez family has just purchased a $2,574.54 microcomputer. They made a down payment of $574.54. Through the store's installemnt plan, they have agreed to pay $121.00 per month for the next 18 months. What is the amount financed?

Answer : The amount financed is the portion of the purchase price paid for by the installment plan. In this case, it is the $2,574.54 (purchase price) - $574.54 (the down payment), which is $2,000. The amount to be financed does not include the interest paid during the plan, which will be $178.

Question : Selling Price: $258,900. Loan term: 30 months on 5.25% interest rate. Down payment: $64,7325. What will be the amount to be financed?

Answer : You will be financing the selling price plus any fees, minus the down payment.



Tips.

When shopping for real estate, be sure that your price range reflects your planned amount financed. You may be able to afford more or less, depending upon your savings and the amount of a down payment.

Warnings.

The purchase agreement used by many car dealerships is notoriously complicated and confusing. Be certain that you understand every line item in the agreement before signing it when buying a new or used vehicle.

02.39

How to Analyze Your Current Finances

How to Analyze Your Current Finances.

Before you can improve your financial health, you need to analyze your current finances. Keep track of your expenses for a month and look at where you are spending the most. Use extra money to pay down debts, build an emergency fund, and save for your retirement. Although saving might seem difficult, it’s actually quite easy once you find out where your money is going.

Part 1 Tracking Your Spending.

1. Record your spending. Record all purchases that you make in a month. Write down the amount spent, the day, and the time. Some of the more popular methods include:

Create a spreadsheet. Remember to enter every purchase or expense. You should probably hold onto receipts so that you don’t forget how much you spent during the day.

Keep a notebook. This is a lower-tech option, but it is convenient. Carry your notebook around with you and record purchases as soon as you make them.

Use checks. This is an old-fashioned option, but you can easily track your expenses when your monthly bank statement arrives.

Use an app. Many apps are on the market that help track your spending on your smartphone. The most popular include Mint.com and Wesabe.com.

2. Add up your fixed expenses. Your fixed expenses don’t change month to month. Common fixed expenses include the following: Rent or mortgage, Insurance, Car payment, Utilities, Debt repayment.

3. Look closer at your discretionary spending. Your discretionary spending is any spending that isn’t fixed. Instead, it goes up and down each month. Pay attention to what you are spending money on. Break out the amounts spent on the following: Groceries, Eating out, Gas, Clothes, Hobbies/entertainment.

4. Pay attention to when you spend the most. Look at the days and times when you make most of your discretionary purchases. Do you buy impulsively immediately after work? Do you spend too much money on the weekends?

You might need to change your routine, depending on when you spend. For example, instead of pulling into the mall on your way home from work, you can change your route so that you don’t pass the mall.

If you’re a weekend spender, you can try to fill your time with other hobbies, such as exercise or visiting friends.

5. Compare your spending to the 50-20-30 rule. According to this rule, your monthly expenses should shake out this way: 50% should go to essentials, such as food, rent, and transportation. 20% should go to saving and debt reduction, and 30% should go for discretionary spending.

The 50-20-30 rule probably won’t work for many people. For example, your fixed expenses like rent might eat up more than 50% of your budget. If you have debts, then you might need to spend more than 20% to pay them down. Nevertheless, the 50-20-30 rule can help you identify where you are falling short. It also gives you something to work towards. If necessary, reduce your debt load by refinancing or paying down debts.

Part 2 Looking Closer at Your Debts.

1. Draw up a list of your debts. Go through your paperwork and find information on your debts, then draw up a list including the following: Name of the account, Total current balance, Monthly payment, Interest rate.

2. Pull a copy of your credit report. You might not remember all of your debts, so you should go through your credit report to make sure you haven’t forgotten anything. In the U.S., you are entitled to one free credit report annually from each of the three national credit reporting agencies. Don’t order the report from each agency. Instead, order them all by calling 1-877-322-8228.

You can also visit annualcreditreport.com. Provide your name, date of birth, address, and Social Security Number.

3. Check if you can reduce your debt load. Depending on your situation, you might be able to lower the overall amount you pay on your debts. Although this might not lower your monthly payments, you will ultimately save money in the long-term. Consider your options:

You might be able to refinance a 30-year mortgage into a 15-year mortgage. This will probably increase your monthly payments, but you can save big on interest.

Call up your credit card companies and ask for a better interest rate. This will lower your monthly payment and your overall debt.

Consolidate debt. For example, you can transfer credit card debts to a balance transfer credit card, or you can take out a lower-interest personal loan to pay off debts.

4. Find ways to reduce your monthly debt payment. In a cash crunch, you’ll need to reduce how much you pay each month, even if you end up paying more over the long-term. You can lower your monthly debt payments in the following ways:

You might be able to stretch out the length of the loan. For example, you might refinance a car loan and stretch out the repayment period to six years.

If you have student loans, you can ask for deferment or forbearance. These options temporarily suspend your payments, though interest will continue to accrue with forbearance. When you get back on your feet, you can begin making payments.

Debt consolidation can also reduce your monthly payments, depending on the interest rate and repayment period.

5. Pay off your debts. You need to pay back your debts, preferably sooner rather than later. Some of the more popular approaches to debt reduction include the following:

Debt avalanche. You pay the minimum on all debts except the one with the highest interest rate, to which you dedicate all extra money. Once that debt is paid off, you commit all resources to the debt with the next highest interest rate.

Debt snowball. With this method, you pay the minimum on all debts except the smallest one. You devote all available money to this debt until it is paid off, then you focus on the remaining debt that is the smallest. This method can give you momentum as you see your smallest debts disappear.

Debt snowflake. You look for ways to save money every day and make multiple payments each month to your debts. You can combine the debt snowflake method with either the avalanche or snowball method.

Part 3 Reducing Your Expenses.

1. Set a savings goal. Ideally, you should save 15-25% of your monthly paycheck. This means that if you bring home $2,000 a month, you should save between $300 and $500. That might not be a realistic goal right now, depending on your expenses.

If you can’t save 15%, then work on ways to reduce your discretionary spending. Every little bit helps, and there are many ways to save every day.

2. Reduce your spending on food. Stop eating out and instead cook at home. Buy a cheap cook book and have fun making new recipes. Remember to buy groceries in bulk for extra savings.

Clipping coupons will help reduce the amount you spend each week. Find coupons in your local newspaper or in the circular at the grocery store.

Use popular apps such as Checkout 51, Grocery IQ, and Coupons.com.

3. Find cheap entertainment substitutes. Everyone needs to unwind a little bit. However, you can usually find a cheaper substitute for your favorite activity:

Instead of paying for a gym membership, exercise outdoors. Join a jogging or walking group, or do pushups or sit-ups in the park.

Get your library card and check out books and DVDs instead of paying for them.

Instead of joining friends for happy hour, host a potluck at your house. Ask all guests to bring a dish or a bottle of wine.

4. Cut your electricity use. Install LED lightbulbs, which are four times as energy efficient as regular lightbulbs, and remember to unplug electrical devices when you aren’t using them.

You might also weatherize and insulate your home for increased savings. Obtain a home energy audit and apply for any local government programs. An energy audit can reduce your energy expenses by 5-30%.

5. Reduce your fixed expenses. These can be the hardest to reduce because they often require that you make big lifestyle changes. However, consider whether you can make any of the following changes, especially if you are living beyond your means:

Move in with friends or family. If you can’t afford your rent or home, then you might need to crash at someone’s place, at least temporarily. This can save a lot of money.

Take public transportation. Sell your car and pocket the money. You’ll also save on insurance and gas.

Get cheaper insurance. You can lower your auto or homeowners insurance by shopping around using an online aggregator. When you find a cheaper option, call up your current insurer and ask them to match it. If they won’t, you can switch.

6. Freeze your credit cards. Reduce the temptation to spend by freezing your cards in ice and carrying only cash on you. If you’re afraid of carrying cash, get a secured credit card or reloadable debit card.

Part 4 Saving for the Future.

1. Build a cash cushion. If your car broke down or you lost your job, could you continue to pay the bills? Build a cash cushion by saving six months’ worth of expenses. Start small, by putting aside whatever extra money you can spare.

Don’t let debt repayment get in the way. Most financial experts recommend that you build up at least a small emergency fund at first—say, three months. Then you can tackle your credit card debt.

Ideally, you can do both at the same time—contribute some money to your emergency fund and some extra to paying debts down quickly.

2. Contact Human Resources about retirement plans. You might be surprised that your employer offers a retirement plan. Call up HR and ask. Also check whether or not they will match any of your contributions.

For example, some employers might match up to 4% of your base salary. This means you contribute 4% and they contribute 4%. If you only contribute 3%, then they will match that.

3. Research IRAs. If your employer doesn’t offer a retirement plan, don’t worry! You have plenty of options to choose from. The two most common are Individual Retirement Accounts (IRAs) and Roth IRAs. You can open an account with many online brokers. Choose which IRA works for you:

IRA. With a traditional IRA, your contributions are tax-free. This is a good choice if you anticipate being in a lower income tax bracket when you retire.

Roth IRA. The big advantage of a Roth IRA is that your withdrawals will be tax free. However, you pay taxes on your contributions. This is a good option if you anticipate being in a higher income tax bracket when you retire.

18.21

How to Organize Your Personal Year End Finances

How to Organize Your Personal Year End Finances.

You should never organize your year-end finances all at once. Rather, you should be engaged in a steady process of organizing and reorganizing your financial documents and information throughout the year. The process you use when organizing at the end of the year will be basically the same process you use monthly or quarterly to evaluate your investments, insurance, and budget. Use the year-end financial organizational process to get the opinion of a financial planner to help you streamline your finances, identify areas of waste, and take corrective actions to save money.

Method 1 Getting Organized.

1. Select your organizational categories. Knowing how to organize your financial documents can be tough. Thinking broadly about the sorts of documents you ought to organize for your year-end finances will help the process move along smoothly. Some documents might need to be copied and placed in multiple locations. For instance, education loan payments might need to be in a “loans” folder and also a “taxes” folder. Depending on what sort of financial documents you have, you may or may not need folders devoted to each of the main financial categories, which include.

Financial management (bank statements and loan records).

Insurance and annuity documents (policies and statements).

Estate documents (wills, trusts, and powers of attorney).

Investments (stocks and bond).

Income tax information (tax returns and documents attesting to charitable giving).

Employment and military records (discharge papers and employee benefits).

Home records (appraisals, renovation receipts).

Medical documents (summaries of recent appointments and any medical bills or payments made).

Legal documents (passports, personal records, and real estate settlements).

2. Use the same organizational system for all your documents. You probably receive and pay some bills through regular mail, and some through digital outlets or automatic account debiting. In this case, it's important to impose a parallel structure on your analog and digital documents alike.

For instance, if you organize your vertical files containing utility bills, credit card bills, and other significant financial documents in order that they were received, you should not organize your digital files into folders containing payments, bills, and receipts according to the company or institution that you made the payments to.

3. Know what to keep. Retain anything tax-related for at least three years. Keep anything that demonstrates a financial loss for seven years. For instance, you ought to keep a bill of sale on a property that sold for less than what you paid for it. You should also retain receipts for transactions paid by credit card until you get the credit card bill that reflects them. Finally, keep all monthly account statements until you get the year-end reconciliation statement.

Conversely, you should know what to get rid of.When new insurance policies arrive, get rid of the old ones.

Err on the side of caution when disposing of financial documents. If you're unsure if you need to keep something, retain it.

For more in-depth guidelines on what you should pitch and keep, consult IRS Publication 17.

4. Use an app or website to help you organize. There are a variety of handy apps to help get your year-end finances organized. For instance, you might check out feedthepig.com, manilla.com, or mint.com.Apps that might help include Mint, Personal Capital, and Spending Tracker.

Method 2 Looking Ahead.

1. Set a budget. Find ways to save next year. Use your year-end financial organization time to identify sources that are draining your money. For instance, if you're paying for cable TV but never watch it, think about cancelling it altogether.

Overall, you should be spending about 35% of your income on home expenses (rent, utilities, and groceries), 15% on transportation expenses (car insurance, train fare, and auto repairs), 25% on entertainment and other miscellaneous expenses, 15% on paying off debt, and putting the final 10% of your income toward savings.

If you live in an expensive area or have a low income, you might need to contribute more money to home expenses and less toward debt or miscellaneous expenditures.

2. Simplify payments and financial data for next year. When you're done organizing your current year's financial data and documentation, look for ways to streamline the process next year. For instance, you can cut back on time spent searching for wayward documents by using automatic bill payments. You might also use debiting by tying regular payments like utilities and credit card charges directly to your bank account.

Cut back on the number of credit cards you use regularly. This will reduce the number of credit card bills you need to juggle. Use the credit card with the lowest interest rate as your day-to-day credit card, and use the other cards once a month in order to prevent their disuse from hurting your credit score.

For the same reason, limit your bank accounts. You should have one checking account and one savings account. If you have multiple checking and savings accounts, close the one with the most fees and least generous terms of service.

Consolidate your retirement accounts and investments, too. If you have several IRAs, transfer all the money into a single IRA. Use one brokerage firm to simplify investments.

3. Keep your finances organized throughout the year. Instead of putting all your receipts, account statements, and other financial documents in a stack and watching them slowly pile up over the course of a year, put them in the appropriate file or folder as you receive them. This will prevent confusion when trying to organize everything at year's end.

Use a three-ring binder with pockets to organize your financial materials in an orderly way. Move non-current financial records to your filing cabinet.

If you feel more comfortable printing out digital documents, print them out and put them in your vertical file or binder.

If you don't print out digital receipts and other documents, ensure that you put them in the appropriate folder according to your predesignated system as you receive them. For instance, when you get your digital W-2, immediately download it and put it with your other tax documents.

If you need to copy certain digital documents to make them accessible in multiple locations, don't be afraid to do so.

Method 3 Evaluating Your Financial Health.

1. Consult a financial planner or accountant. With the help of a certified financial planner or accountant, you'll be able to get your year-end finances under control. They can help you find ways to save when you file taxes in the coming months, and can explain some of the nuances of the tax code. For instance, you might want to ask.

Should I accelerate or defer income?

What losses or gains should I take this year?

Should I convert my traditional IRA to a Roth IRA so that my earnings will grow tax-free?

Are there any charitable donations I should make?

2. Total your year-to-date spending. You should have a column with all the payments, investments, and savings you have at the end of the year. Compare these numbers to their counterparts at the beginning of the year to get an overall sense of your financial health.

Your investment value should be greater at the end of the year than it was at the beginning of the year.

Your savings should be higher at the end of the year than it was at the beginning of the year.

Your spending should be less than the value of your savings.

3. Review your credit reports. Each year, you are entitled to three free credit reports, one each from the three major credit agencies (Experian, Equifax, and TransUnion). These reports will let you know if your credit score is good or if it needs a boost.

The best way to check your credit reports is not to check all three at once, but rather to space them out regularly over time. Ideally, you'd check one every four months.

4. Check your portfolio. Read the latest reports from your stock broker or financial planner to determine the relative health of your investments. If your portfolio is not doing well, think about investing elsewhere. Talk to a certified financial planner or stockbroker for advice about how to develop a robust portfolio.

Method  4 Finding Ways to Save.

1. Analyze your insurance coverage. If you have home, life, auto, or other insurance, contact some agents representing insurers in your area to find out if you have the best coverage you can afford. If you've made improvements to your home over the past year, you may have increased the value of your home, and that value should be reflected in your insurance policy.

Likewise, if you've welcomed a new family member into your family over the past year, you must check with your insurance provider to guarantee that they're covered under your insurance.

2. Review your tax data. Working with a tax professional, find ways to reduce your tax burden before the year is out. Charitable giving is the easiest way to do this. Look for reputable charities whose work you believe in through GuideStar (http://www.guidestar.org), CharityWatch (https://www.charitywatch.org/home) and Charity Navigator (http://www.charitynavigator.org).

You can also make in-kind (material) donations to thrift stores like the Salvation Army in exchange for a tax discount.

You can also qualify for tax deductions based on work-related expenses like travel or items of clothing you bought specifically for work.

3. Update your information where necessary. If you've had a change in your marital status you may need to revise your tax withholding and/or employee health coverage. If you're unsure if you need to update this information, contact a financial planner for assistance.

4. Empty your flexible spending account. A flexible spending account for healthcare should be used to cover outstanding claims from your doctor, dentist, or other health provider. If you have a flexible spending account oriented toward other types of spending like dependent care, employ the account to cover the appropriate expenses before the year is out.

Only $500 of a flexible spending account can carry over into the following year, so it's important to take full advantage of the account before the year ends.

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How to Protect Your Finances Against Market Crashes

How to Protect Your Finances Against Market Crashes.

Economic expansions don't last forever, and eventually, the country will enter another recession. When it does, you need to protect your investments so that you can weather the storm. Assess how exposed you are to stocks and decide whether to diversify your portfolio with safer investments. Also clean up your balance sheet by reducing your debts, which will allow you to survive the recession that accompanies a stock market crash.

Method 1 Changing Your Investments.

1. Check your current investment allocation. You might have no idea what your retirement fund is currently invested in. If not, log into your account and print out the current allocation of investments, which should include the following:

stocks or stock mutual funds, bonds,real estate,money market accounts.

2. Identify why you fear a market crash. The economy goes up and down with some regularity, and when the market crashes stocks suddenly become cheaper to buy. For this reason, you might not want to diversify your portfolio. Instead, you can leave your investments as they are.

However, you might want to reduce your exposure to risk if you are nearing your retirement age or have just entered retirement. A major stock market crash could seriously cut the amount of money you have to live on.

Your tolerance for risk might also have changed. If so, then you can diversify your portfolio so that you are comfortable with your investment mix.

It’s impossible to predict exactly when the next recession will hit, so you shouldn’t move money in and out of the stock market hoping to get out just before things turn south. For example, it looked like the U.S. stock market was about to crash in late 2015. Since then, the Dow Jones Industrial Average has increased more than 20%.

3. Consider holding money in a savings account. The easiest way to protect your investments is to get out of stocks and move the money to savings accounts. Consider the following options:

High-yield online savings accounts. These accounts will only earn about 1-2% annually, but this amount is higher than most banks offer. Your cash is liquid, so you can access it if needed. Furthermore, your deposit will be protected by the Federal Deposit Insurance Corporation (FDIC) up to $250,000 USD.

Money market accounts. These accounts are like bank accounts but with potentially higher returns. You can write checks against the money market account. Open with your bank or with a company like Scottrade or TD Ameritrade.

Certificates of Deposit. Banks and credit unions sell "CDs," which you can buy for a set sum. You are prohibited from accessing the money until the CD matures, but you will earn interest on the investment.

4. Invest in bonds. Bonds are debt. Companies, as well as governments, issue bonds to raise money, and bonds are a safer investment than stock. Consider putting more of your investment into bonds, such as the following:

Municipal bonds. State and local governments issue bonds to raise money, and in return the bonds are exempted from income taxes. You can typically earn 3% annually on bonds. They are a low-risk investment, unless the city government is on the verge of bankruptcy.

U.S. savings bonds. These bonds are very safe. With a Series I bond, you get a fixed interest rate, and your return is linked to inflation. With the Series EE bond, you earn an automatic rate of return each month.

Treasury Inflation Protected Securities (TIPS). The U.S. government offers a fixed interest rate as well as inflation protection that’s triggered every time inflation increases.

Image titled Protect Your Finances Against Market Crashes Step 5

5. Consider annuities. An annuity is a contract with an insurer or financial services company. You make a lump sum payment, and in return you are provided with a fixed sum of money for a specific amount of time. There are several varieties of annuities, which can protect your investments in case of a market crash. For example, fixed-indexed annuities can protect your principal.

Annuities are safer than stocks, but they do have some risks. For example, the company you bought the annuity from could go bankrupt. In that situation, you will no longer be paid. You can protect yourself by doing thorough research and only buying an annuity from a company with the highest rating.

The value of an annuity can also erode with inflation, though you can buy annuities that will protect against inflation.

6. Find safer stocks. Not all companies are the same, and some are safer investments in a down economy than others. For example, you might want to get rid of low-grade stock, such as companies with a lot of debt or businesses in speculative fields like biotech that have not yet produced strong profits. In a market crash, the value of these companies will decline.

Instead, look to high-quality stocks which tend to hold up better. These companies have stable earnings and low debt.

Also consider stocks that pay dividends. Check if you can invest in a dividend exchange-traded fund.

7. Change your contributions. If you’re not yet in retirement, you should consider changing the allocation of your retirement contributions for the last few years before you stop working. Direct your contributions toward safer investments, such as those discussed above.

Changing your contributions will not change the allocation of investments already in your portfolio, so consider diversifying it.

8. Diversify your portfolio. When the market is good, riskier investments such as stocks perform well. But when the market crashes, you can expect stocks to perform poorly. Accordingly, you might want to diversity your portfolio and move some money out of stocks.

How much to move is up to you. However, you don’t have to get out of stocks entirely. Instead, you could reduce stocks to 30% of your portfolio, and have the other 70% in bonds or another safe investment. In a market crash, your losses will remain in the single digits, and you can move back into stocks after the market improves.

If you don’t know what to do, meet with a financial planner who can help you assess your risk tolerance and come up with a plan suited to your needs.

Method 2 Reducing Your Debt.

1. Identify all of your debts. In a market crash, you’ll need as much cash as possible to pay for living expenses. Accordingly, you want to decrease your debt load as much as possible now. Begin by identifying every debt you have, including any of the following:

student loan debt, credit card debt, home mortgage,car loan,personal loans.

2. Prioritize your debts. You need to make the minimum monthly payments on all debts. However, you should direct extra money to the debts you want to pay off the most. Accordingly, sit down and prioritize your debts.

For example, if you lose your job, then you can often delay payments on student loans, using either forbearance or deferment. Accordingly, you might not want to pay down your student loans first but instead focus on credit cards, which probably have a higher interest rate.

However, some debts are tied to an asset. For example, you can lose your car or home if you don’t make payment. Paying these debts off early could be a wise choice.

3. Create a budget. To free up money to contribute to debt payments, you’ll need to budget. Identify the following:

Your fixed expenses. These are bills that don’t change much month to month. Generally, fixed expenses are also for necessities, such as your rent or mortgage, health insurance premiums, car payments, and other debts.

Your discretionary spending. You can track your discretionary spending over the course of one or two months. Write down what you buy every day and note the price. Alternately, you can buy everything with a debit or credit card and then look at your monthly statement.

Reduce discretionary spending. You need your income to exceed your discretionary spending. To free up as much money as possible, reduce discretionary spending to the bare minimum by giving up gym memberships and cable TV. You can also cut out vacations, entertainment expenses, and meals in restaurants.

4. Refinance your mortgage. Mortgage rates are still low. If you have a high APR, then consider refinancing into a loan with a lower one. Avoid spending the money that you save and instead funnel it toward debt repayment.

To investigate a mortgage refinance, contact your current lender to check what rate they can offer you. Then compare their rates to others on the market.

5. Tackle credit card debt. You want a stable balance sheet when the market crashes, so you should reduce your debts as much as possible. In particular, you should pay down high-interest credit card debt. Identify a method of repayment so that you can wipe out these debts as soon as possible:

Debt avalanche. You pay the minimum monthly payment on all credit cards. Then you contribute extra money to the debt with the highest interest rate. Once you pay off that card, focus on the debt with the second highest interest rate.

Debt snowball. Another method is to pay the minimum on your monthly debts but then use extra to pay off the card with the smallest balance first. The debt snowball method is more expensive than the debt avalanche, but it can give you momentum.

Debt snowflake. This method is ideal for people who can’t budget extra money to pay down debt. Instead, you try to save a little bit of money every day and make multiple monthly payments to slowly chip away at your debt.

Method 3 Preparing for Emergencies.

1. Build an emergency fund. You’ll need money in case you lose your job or if any kind of emergency springs up. Generally, you should save at least six months of expenses. If possible, save up to twelve months of expenses.

Put money toward your emergency fund every month, even if that means you pay off debts more slowly.

If you are a retiree, then you should try to have two years of expenses saved. When the market declines, you should live off your savings instead of drawing income from your investments.

2. Buy insurance. Insurance protects you from any unforeseen accidents that will hammer you financially. In an economic downturn, you’ll need all the money you can get, and insurance will provided valuable protection in case an accident strikes. Consider the following types of insurance:

Health insurance. If your employer doesn’t offer it, you can buy it on the government exchanges. Depending on your income, you might quality for a premium subsidy and/or help with out-of-pocket expenses.

Automobile insurance. Your insurance will pay if you injure someone in an accident. Depending on the insurance, you might also be covered if someone without coverage injures you.

Disability insurance. If you are disabled before you reach retirement, you’ll need income to support you. Your employer probably offers disability insurance. If not, you can shop on your own.

Life Insurance. You can replace the income of a working spouse with a life insurance policy. Life insurance is particularly important if you have young children. Calculate how much life insurance you need at lifehappens.org.

Homeowner’s insurance. Your homeowner’s policy covers injuries that occur on your property, as well as any structural damage caused by natural disasters and other accidents.

3. Assess the stability of your job. In a market crash, many jobs will be wiped out as employers are forced to lay off workers. You need to assess whether your job is stable enough to survive a recession, or whether you should plan on getting a different job.

Look at how many people your employer laid off during the last recession. Were only a few let go? If so, your job might be secure. However, if your employer engaged in mass layoffs, then there’s no reason to assume it won’t happen again.

You can also pick up some freelance or part-time work now. That way, if the market crashes, you’ll still have some income coming in.

Tips.

Consult with a personal financial counselor to help plan, protect, and control how your finances and money in the future.

23.09

How to Calculate Finance Charges on a Leased Vehicle

How to Calculate Finance Charges on a Leased Vehicle.

At some point, you may want or need to have a new car. You may also want to weigh the cost differences between leasing and buying before you make your decision. One way to compare costs is to figure out exactly what you will be paying for each. When you buy a car, you finance the amount charged for the vehicle and the interest rate is clear. When you lease a car, you pay to use the vehicle for a period of time, similar to renting it, and turn it in at the end of the lease. The finance charges for a lease may not always be clear. To calculate the finance charges on a leased vehicle, you need to know only a few things: the net capitalized cost, residual value and money factor. If these are known, calculating your finance charges is a simple process.

Part 1 Collecting Necessary Data.

1. Determine the net cap cost. The term “net cap cost” is a shortened form of net capitalized cost. This is ultimately the overall price of the vehicle. The net cap cost may be affected by other additions or subtractions, as follows.

Any miscellaneous fees or taxes are added to the cost to increase the net cap cost.

Any down payment, trade in or rebates are considered “net cap reductions.” These are subtracted and will reduce the net cap cost.

Suppose, for example, that a vehicle is listed with a cost of $30,000. There is a rebate or you make a down payment of $5,000. Therefore, the net cap cost for this vehicle is $25,000.

2. Establish the residual value of the vehicle. This is a bit like predicting the future. The residual value is the vehicle’s value at the end of the lease, when you will return it. This is always a bit uncertain because nobody can predict the exact condition of the vehicle, the mileage or the repairs that it will undergo during the lease. To establish the residual value, dealers use industry guide books, such as the Automotive Leasing Guide (ALG).

The graphic shown above illustrates the decline in the vehicle’s value over time. For this example, the residual value at the end of the term is set at $15,000.

Some dealers choose not to use the ALG. Instead, they may develop their own guide or functions for setting residual values.

3. Find out the dealer’s money factor. Leased vehicles do not charge interest in the same way that purchase agreements do. There is, however, a finance charge that is analogous to interest. You are paying the leasing company for the use of their vehicle during the term of your lease. This charge is based on a number called the “money factor.”

The money factor is not generally publicized. You will need to ask the dealer to share it with you.

The money factor does not look like an interest rate. It will generally be a decimal number like 0.00333. To compare the money factor to an annual interest rate, multiply the money factor by 2400. In this example, a money factor of 0.00333 is roughly like a loan interest rate of 0.00333x2400 = 7.992% interest. This is not an exact equivalence but is a regularly accepted comparison value.

Part 2 Performing the Calculations.

1. Add the net cap cost and the residual value. The finance charge is based on the sum of the net cap cost and the residual value. At first glance, this appears to be an unfair doubling of the car’s value. However, in combination with the money factor, this works as a way to average the net cap cost and the residual value. You end up paying the finance fee on an average overall value of the car.

Consider the example started above. The net cap cost is $25,000, and the residual is $15,000. The total, therefore, is the sum of $25,000+$15,000 = $40,000.

2. Multiply that sum by the money factor. The money factor is applied to the sum of the net cap cost and the residual value of the car to find the monthly finance charge.

Continuing with the example above, use the money factor 0.00333. Multiply this by the sum of the net cap cost and residual as follows:

$40,000 x 0.00333 = $133.2.

3. Apply the monthly finance charge. The result of the final calculation is the monthly finance charge that will be added to your lease payment. In this example, the finance charge is $133.20 each month.

4. Figure the full monthly payment. The finance charge may be the largest portion of your monthly payment, but you cannot count on it to be the full payment. In addition to the finance charge, many dealers will also charge a depreciation fee. This is the cost that you pay to compensate the dealer for the decreased value of the car over time. Finally, you may be responsible for assorted taxes.

Before you sign any lease agreement, you should find out the full monthly charge you are responsible for. Ask the dealer to itemize all the costs for you, and make sure that you understand and can afford them all.

Part 3 Negotiating with the Dealer.

1. Ask for the data you want. Many people, when leasing a vehicle, seem satisfied to accept the bottom line figure that the dealer assigns. However, to verify that any deal you negotiate is actually honored, you need to know the details of the finance charge calculations. Without asking for the data, you could be the victim of carelessness, simple error, or even fraud.

You could negotiate a reduced price for the vehicle, but then the dealer could base the calculations on the original value anyway.

The dealer might not apply proper credit for a trade-in vehicle.

The dealer could make mathematical errors in calculating the finance charge.

The dealer could apply a money factor other than the one used in the original negotiations.

2. Press the dealer for the “money factor.” The money factor is a decimal number that car dealerships use to calculate the finance charges. This number is not an interest rate but is somewhat analogous to interest rates. Some lease dealers may publicize the money factor, while others may not. You should ask for the money factor that your dealer is using. Also ask how the money factor is used to calculate the finance fee charged on your lease.

3. Ask the dealer to show you the calculation worksheet. The dealer is not required to share with you the calculations that go into the finance charge and monthly payments on your leased vehicle. Unless you ask specifically, you will probably never see that information. You should ask the dealer, sales clerk or manager to share the calculations with you. Even if you have the individual bits of data, you may not be able to confirm that the figures were calculated accurately or fairly unless you compare your notes to the dealer’s calculations.

4. Threaten to leave if the dealer is not forthcoming with information. The only leverage you have in the negotiations over a leased vehicle’s finance charges is the ability to walk away. Make it clear to the dealer that you want to verify the calculations and the individual pieces of information that go into figuring your finance charges. If the dealer is unwilling to share this information with you, you should threaten to leave and lease your car from somewhere else.

Tips.

If the lease dealership will not provide you with the money factor, go to a different dealer. You cannot determine and compare your true costs and fair value unless you have this information.

The higher the car value at lease end (that is, less depreciation), the less your finance charges will be, which, in turn, will reduce your monthly payment.

Warnings

Some dealers may present the money factor number so that it is easier to read, such as 3.33; however, this could be misinterpreted as the interest rate. Be aware that this is not the rate that will be used. This number should be converted to the actual money factor by dividing by 1,000 (3.33 divided by 1,000 = 0.00333).

Be aware that the finance cost (as calculated here to be $133.20) is not necessarily your total monthly payment. It is only the finance charge and may not include other charges such as sales tax or the acquisition fee.

Things You'll Need : Net cap cost, Residual cost, Money factor, Paper, Pen or pencil, Calculator.

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