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How to Calculate an Amount to Be Financed.


The full price of a major purchase such as a house, boat or car is rarely financed. Most lenders for these types of loans require a down payment of some sort, usually expressed as a percentage. Additionally, mortgage loans list a different figure, "amount financed," which does not include prepaid fees paid to the lender. Knowing how to calculate an amount to be financed will help you make informed consumer decisions.



Part 1 Calculating a Commercial Loan Amount to be Financed.

1. Determine the selling price. For a vehicle, boat, or another type of commercial loan purchase this will be the amount you agree to pay for your new acquisition. It does not include other aspects of the deal such as the trade-in allowance, fees, taxes, and other closing costs.

2. Subtract any net trade-in allowance. For auto or boat purchases, among others, a dealer may offer a trade-in allowance or credit for giving them your old car or boat when you buy a new one. The value of this item, or a credit provided by the dealer, is then subtracted from what you owe on your new purchase. The net trade-in allowance is found by subtracting the amount still owed on your trade from the trade-in allowance offered by the dealership.

If the trade-in is high enough, dealers don't typically require an extra payment, such as a down payment.

Some dealers may allow you to use the trade-in value of your old vehicle to cover the required down payment on a new one (assuming the old one holds enough value).

3. Account for any cash rebates that are applied to the purchase price of the item. Dealers may also offer cash rebates as a way to incentivize purchases. These cash rebates are simply subtracted from the purchase price at closing. They also do not need to be included in the amount to be financed. Rebates may be provided to certain buyers, like students or military veterans, or may be specific to certain vehicles.

4. Settle on a loan amount. The amount left after rebates and trade-ins is the the amount owed. This amount must be either paid in full or borrowed from a lender and paid off in installments over time. From here, you can calculate the down payment if the lender requires one. For example, a lender might require 10 or 20 percent down on your purchase. Your loan amount is then the amount remaining after the down payment is subtracted out.

5. Use the loan amount as your amount financed. "Amount financed" is a term that is specific to home loans. All other loans simply refer to the amount financed as the total amount of the loan provided to the borrower. For these types of loans, simply use the loan amount after the down payment as calculated in this part as your amount financed.



Part 2 Determining the Amount Financed for a Mortgage Loan.

1. Negotiate a price for the asset with the seller. For a home, this will be your accepted offer price. For example, you might talk a homeowner down to selling a property for $100,000.

2. Subtract any deposits. Home purchases may have required a "good faith" deposit. Other purchases may also require a deposit be made while bidding on or reserving the item. This deposit is typically paid upon submission of an offer to purchase. This money is then subtracted from the purchase price, as you have already paid it.

Deposits are either returned (depending upon terms) or converted into the down payment amount and/or closing costs.

For example, if you put in a $3,000 good faith deposit on a $100,000 home, you would subtract this from the $100,000 to get $97,000.

3. Finalize the loan amount. The portion of the original purchase price remaining after these deductions is your loan amount, assuming you are planning on financing the purchase. This amount must be borrowed from a lender and then repaid over a period of time per a loan agreement. The loan amount is the amount borrowed from the lender, not the amount that will eventually be repaid in total, which also includes interest expenses.

4. Deduct the down payment amount. The down payment is paid in full upon closing the sale. It is generally a percentage of the total purchase price and is designed to provide security for the lender in the event of default. Therefore, it is not included in the amount financed.

Many mortgage lenders require 20 percent down on a real estate transaction, although you may be able to secure an FHA-backed mortgage requiring as little as 5 percent down payment. A lower loan balance results in less interest expense and the possible requirement of mortgage insurance.

A lower downpayment is expected on government- guaranteed loans such as FHA or VA because the lender has recourse to the Federal government in the event of default.

For example, if you paid a 20 percent down payment on the $100,000 house purchase, which would be $20,000, you would subtract this from your total.

Your good faith deposit may be applied towards your down payment. This means that the loan amount would still be the purchase price minus the down payment, which is $80,000 in this case.

5. Understand how amount financed differs from the loan amount. "Amount financed" is a term set by the 1968 Truth in Lending Act to describe how much credit is provided to a borrower when they take out a home loan. It is calculated by subtracting prepaid fees and finance charges from the loan amount, since these fees are paid at closing simultaneously with the execution of the loan documents. This means that the amount financed is always less than the actual loan amount. The amount financed is provided to borrowers on the Truth in Lending Disclosure Statement, which is supplied after you apply for a home loan.

6. Add up prepaid fees. Prepaid fees are subtracted from the loan amount to arrive at the amount financed. These fees include prepaid points, homeowners association fees, mortgage insurance, and escrow company fees. They also include lender fees like underwriting fees, tax service, process fees, and prepaid interest. Add all of these fees up to arrive a total prepaid fees amount.

7. Subtract total prepaid fees from the loan amount. Subtract all of the prepaid fees from the loan amount to get your amount financed. This information will also be available on your Truth in Lending Disclosure Statement.[9]



Part 3 Using the Amount Financed.

1. Compare different lenders. If you have the amount financed for a mortgage loan, you can use this information to compare different lenders by looking at the associated fees and interest rates. This information is provided on the Truth in Lending Disclosure Statement, which is provided by all lenders to loan applicants. If you instead are financing another purchase, you can use your amount of financing required to apply to a variety of loans and look for the best combination of fees and interest rate.

2. Calculate the amount of interest you will pay. Your loan will likely be charged compound interest as you pay it off. Compound interest paid increases with the loan duration, the interest rate, and the compounding frequency (how often the compound interest is calculated each year). When you have the amount financed, you can use online interest calculators to determine how much interest you will pay on loans with different loan terms. A longer, higher-interest loan will end up costing you much more money in the long run than a shorter-term, low-interest loan.

For more information, see how to calculate interest payments.

3. Calculate loan payments. If you know how much you need to borrower (your loan amount), you can use this information to check for loan rates online. Check loan aggregator sites to find interest rates for the type and size of loan that you need. Then, input this information into an online loan calculator to figure out what your monthly payments might be. The Financial Industry Regulatory Authority (FINRA) provides a good calculator at http://apps.finra.org/Calcs/1/Loan.

4. Assess your ability to afford a purchase. Once you have an idea of the monthly loan payments, you can use this information to figure out how much you can afford to take out in a loan. Assess your ability to afford the loan by starting with your monthly after-tax income. Then, subtract any existing debt payments (mortgage, auto, etc.), monthly expenses like utilities and food, and savings or contributions to an emergency fund. The amount left is money that you can afford to pay towards a new loan's monthly payment.

Most financial planners suggest limiting house payments plus taxes and insurance to 25 to 28 percent of take-home income.

For example, if your household net income is $7,000 per month, your total outlay for housing should be no more than $1,960 per month.

5. Determine mortgage APR. Your actual mortgage annual percentage rate (APR) is calculated using your amount financed, rather than the loan amount. That is, your actual APR will be higher than the interest rate listed on your loan. To calculate your actual APR, find your monthly payment by using your stated interest rate, loan term, and loan amount and entering them into a loan calculator. Then, record your monthly payment and find a loan calculator that allows you to input your monthly payment, loan duration, and loan amount and receive an interest rate as the output. The output will be your actual APR.

A good calculator for this purpose can be found at http://www.thecalculatorsite.com/finance/calculators/interest-rate-calculator.php.



Question : Gomez family has just purchased a $2,574.54 microcomputer. They made a down payment of $574.54. Through the store's installemnt plan, they have agreed to pay $121.00 per month for the next 18 months. What is the amount financed?

Answer : The amount financed is the portion of the purchase price paid for by the installment plan. In this case, it is the $2,574.54 (purchase price) - $574.54 (the down payment), which is $2,000. The amount to be financed does not include the interest paid during the plan, which will be $178.

Question : Selling Price: $258,900. Loan term: 30 months on 5.25% interest rate. Down payment: $64,7325. What will be the amount to be financed?

Answer : You will be financing the selling price plus any fees, minus the down payment.



Tips.

When shopping for real estate, be sure that your price range reflects your planned amount financed. You may be able to afford more or less, depending upon your savings and the amount of a down payment.

Warnings.

The purchase agreement used by many car dealerships is notoriously complicated and confusing. Be certain that you understand every line item in the agreement before signing it when buying a new or used vehicle.
02.39


How to Reduce Finance Charges on a Car Loan.

Finance charges applied to a car loan are the actual charges for the cost of borrowing the money needed to purchase your car. The finance charge that is associated with your car loan is directly contingent upon three variables: loan amount, interest rate, and loan term. Modifying any or all of these variables will change the amount of finance charges you will pay for the loan. There are a number of ways to reduce finance charges on a loan, and the method you choose will be contingent upon whether you already have a loan or are taking out a new loan. Knowing your options can help you save money and pay off your vehicle faster.

Method 1 Reducing Finance Charges for a New Loan.

1. Learn your credit score. Automobile loans are largely determined by the borrower's credit score; the better the borrower's credit score is, the lower his interest rate will likely be. Knowing your credit score before you apply for an automobile loan can help ensure that you get the best possible loan terms. You can obtain a free copy of your credit report (one free copy is guaranteed every 12 months) by visiting AnnualCreditReport.com or by calling 1-877-322-8228.

Your credit report won't explicitly contain your credit score, but it will contain information that determines your credit score. Because of this, it's tremendously important to review all of the information contained in your credit report and understand what determines your credit score to ensure that there are no errors.

If your credit score is low, you may need to improve your credit score. Improving your credit score will likely get you much better terms on your loan. If you can hold off on purchasing your vehicle until you've repaired your credit, it may be worth waiting.

Consider contacting a credit counseling organization to help you rebuild your credit. A credit counselor can work with you to build and stick to a budget, and can even help you manage your income and your debts. You can find a credit counseling organization near you by searching online - just be clear on the terms and fees of the services offered before signing up with a credit counselor.

2. Shop around for your loan. Most dealerships offer automobile loans at the dealership, which can make it convenient for buyers. However, the dealership may not be offering the best available loan. Many automobile dealers arrange loans by acting as a "middle man" between you and a bank, which means that the dealership may charge you extra to compensate for its services. Even if the dealership's fees aren't unreasonable, it's likely that the dealer will then sell your contract to a bank, credit union, or finance company, and you may end up making payments to that third party. Even if you end up going with the dealer's financing option, it's worth shopping around for a better loan from a local bank or credit union.

3. Don't take out a small loan. Every loan term is different, depending on factors like your credit score and the amount you're requesting to borrow. Smaller loans typically have very high monthly finance charges, because the bank makes money off of these charges and they know that a smaller loan will be paid off more quickly. If you intend to take out an auto loan for only a few thousand dollars, it may be worth saving up until you have the whole amount that you'll need to purchase an automobile, or purchasing an automobile that fits in your available price range.

4. Get a pre-approved loan before you buy a car. Pre-approved loans are arranged in advance with a bank or financial institution. This may be helpful, as many people feel pressured to go with the loan options that a dealer offers at the car lot, and end up getting a loan with high finance charges. If you get a pre-approved loan beforehand, you'll know exactly how much you can afford to spend on an automobile, which will also help you stay within your budget.

5. Consider leasing instead of buying. Leasing a vehicle allows you to use your vehicle for an arranged duration of time and a predetermined number of miles. You won't own your car, but lease payments are typically lower than what the monthly payments on a loan would be for the exact same vehicle. Some lease terms also give you the option of purchasing your vehicle at the end of the leasing period. Before you decide to lease, it may be helpful to consider.

the lease costs at the beginning, middle, and end of the leasing period.

what leasing offers and terms are available to you.

how long you want to keep the automobile.

Method 2 Refinancing an Existing Loan.

1. Contact your lender. You can apply to refinance your automobile loan with the lender from the original loan, or you can switch to a new lender. Lenders who allow refinancing will replace your existing loan with a new loan, typically offering lower monthly finance charges. Not every lender will allow borrowers to refinance a loan, so it may be worth comparing your options to determine which lender to go with, or whether you're eligible to refinance at all.

2. Gather the necessary information. As part of the refinancing application process, you'll need some basic information to provide the lender. Before you apply to refinance your loan, you'll need to have ready:

your current interest rate.

how much money is still owed on the existing loan.

how many months remain in the existing loan's terms.

the make, model, and current odometer reading of your vehicle.

the current value of your vehicle.

your current income and employment history.

your current credit score.

3. Compare refinance loan options. If you are eligible for an automobile loan refinance with your existing lender, you may be eligible for a better loan through a different lending institution. It's worth comparing your refinance loan options to get the best available loan terms. When you search around and compare refinance options, it's worth considering:

the loan rate.

the duration of the loan.

whether there are pre-payment penalties or late payment penalties.

any fees or finance charges.

what (if any) the conditions for automobile repossession are with a given lender.

Method 3 Pre-paying an Existing Loan.

1. Learn whether you're able to pre-pay your loan. If refinancing isn't an option, you may be eligible for pre-paying your loan. Pre-payment, also called early loan payoff, simply means that you pay off your debt before the agreed-upon end date of an existing loan.[29] The benefit of pre-paying your loan is that you're not subjected to the monthly finance charges you would otherwise be paying on your loan, but for that reason many lenders charge a pre-payment penalty or fee.[30] The terms of your existing loan should specify whether there is any pre-payment or early loan payoff penalty, but if you're unsure you can always consult with your lender.

2. Learn the pre-payment process for your lender. If your lender permits you to make pre-payments on your loan, there may be a special process for making those payments. These payments are sometimes referred to as principal-only payments, and it's important to specify to your lender that you intend for that payment to be applied to the principal loan, not the finance charges for upcoming months. Each lender's process may be different, so it's best to call or email the lender's customer service department and ask what you need to do to make a principal-only payment towards your loan.

3. Calculate your early loan payoff amount. There are many early loan payoff "calculators" available online, but all of them factor in the same basic information to determine how much you will need to pay in order to payoff your loan early:

the total number of months in your existing loan term.

the number of months remaining on your existing loan.

the amount your existing loan was for.

the monthly payments remaining on your loan.

the current annual interest rate (APR) on your existing loan.

Tips.

Reducing the finance charges by reducing the term of the loan will lower the finance charges overall but it will also increase your monthly payment, because you take less time to repay the loan.

Consider working with a credit counseling organization if you're having trouble sticking with your budget or paying off your loans.
20.10


How to Calculate Finance Charges on a New Car Loan.

While some people save until they can buy a car in full, most people take out a car loan. This makes newer and better cars more accessible to everyone. However, it also makes car ownership even more expensive in the long run. Before taking out a loan, you should consider the additional money you will pay in interest for the duration of your loan. These payments, also known as finance charges, will be included in your payments and can be calculated either as monthly payments or as a sum total over the life of your loan.

Part 1 Clarifying the Terms of Your Loan.

1. Determine how much you will borrow. Typically, buyers will make a cash down payment on their new car and borrow from a lender to cover the remaining cost. This borrowed amount, known as the principal, will serve as the basis for your car loan. Keep in mind that you should put as much money down on your car as possible to minimize the amount borrowed and reduce your finance charges.

This step will require you to know roughly how much your new car will cost. See How to Buy a New Car for more information about finding a good price and working within your budget.

2. Figure out the annual percentage rate (APR) and duration of your loan. The APR reflects how much additional money you will have to pay beyond your principal for each year of your loan. A low APR will reduce the yearly and monthly amounts of finance charges on your loan. However, many low-APR loans are longer in duration, so the overall cost may remain relatively high. Alternately, a short-term loan with a higher APR may end up being cheaper overall. This is why it is important to calculate your finance charges beforehand.

Getting a low APR on your car loan may mean seeking other lenders beyond your car dealership. Be sure to do your research and select the cheapest available combination of APR and duration. See How to Get a Low APR on a Car Loan for more information.

3. Find out how many payments you will make each year. The majority of car loan payments are made on a monthly basis. When calculating your monthly payments, you will need to know both how many payments you will make each year and how many payments you will make in total. This information can be easily found in the terms of your car loan.

Part 2 Calculating Your Monthly Finance Charges.

1. Save time by using an online calculator. There are many car loan payment calculators available for free online. Take advantage of these free services if you don't want to spend the time calculating your payments yourself. Search "Car loan payment calculator" and you will be provided with many options. If you still want to work it out by hand, continue to the next step.

2. Find your interest rate due on each payment. Start by converting your APR to a decimal by dividing it by 100. For example, if your APR is stated at 8.4%, 8.4/100 = 0.084. Next, find your monthly percentage rate by dividing your APR decimal by 12. So, 0.084/12 = 0.007. This is your monthly percentage rate expressed as a decimal.

3. Multiply your monthly percentage rate times your principal. If, for example, your principal were $20,000 (if you borrowed $20,000 to buy your car), you would multiply this by 0.007 (from the previous step) and get 140.

4. Input this number into the monthly payment formula. The formula is as follows: Monthly Payment = (Interest rate due on each payment x principal)/ (1 – (1 + Interest rate due on each payment)^ -(Number of payments)). The top part of the equation (interest rate due on each payment x principal) is your number from the previous step. The rest can be calculated using a simple calculator.

The "^" indicates that the figure (-(Number of Payments)) is an exponent to the figure (1 + Interest rate due on each payment). On a calculator, this is entered by calculating 1 + interest rate due on each payment, hitting the button x^y, and then entering the number of payments. Keep in mind that the number of payments is made negative here (multiplied by negative one).

In our example, the calculation would go as follows (assuming a loan duration of 5 years or 60 months):

Monthly Payment = (0.007 x $20000)/(1-(1+ 0.007)^-60.

Monthly payment = $140/(1-(1.007)^-60).

Monthly payment = $140/(1-0.658).

Monthly payment = $140/0.342.

Monthly payment = $409.36 (this number may be off by a few cents due to rounding).

5. Calculate the amount of principal paid each month. This is done by simply dividing your principal amount by the duration of your loan in months. For our example, this would be $20,000/60 months = $333.33/month.

6. Subtract your principal paid each month from your monthly payment. In our example, this would be $409.36 - $333.33. This equals roughly $76. So, with this loan agreement, you would be spending $76 per month in interest payments alone.

Part 3 Calculating Your Loan's Total Finance Charges.

1. Find your monthly payment. To find your total finance charges over the life of your loan, start by calculating your monthly payment. How to do this is explained in the previous section.

2. Plug that number into the total finance charges formula. The formula is as follows: Monthly Payment Amount x Number of Payments – Amount Borrowed = Total Amount of Finance Charges.

So, in our example, this would be.

$409 x 60 - $20,000 = Total amount of finance charges.

$24,540 - $20,000 = Total amount of finance charges.

Total amount of finance charges = $4,540.

3. Check your work. To be sure that you calculated your total correctly, divide that number by the total number of payments (60, in this case). $4,540/60 = 76. If the result matches your monthly finance charges you calculated earlier, then you have the correct number for total finance charges.

Tips.

Use this process to compare loan plans to ensure that you end up with the lowest possible value for overall finance charges.

Using an online loan calculator will always be simpler and more convenient than working out the numbers on your own. These online calculators are always accurate.

The calculator included on most smartphones is capable of doing the math here. If you don't have a smart phone or calculator to use, try typing your equation into Google's search bar, as it will solve most simple problems.

With good credit and a large down payment, it may be possible to get a car loan with 0% APR.

Warnings.

While uncommon, some lenders can use a more complicated form of interest called compound interest that will throw off these calculations. Be sure to ask if your car loan charges simple interest (the kind described in this article) before counting on these equations.



20.27


How to Calculate Compound Interest.

Compound interest is distinct from simple interest in that interest is earned both on the original investment (the principal) and the interest accumulated so far, rather than simply on the principal. Because of this, accounts with compound interest grow faster than those with simple interest. Additionally, the value will grow even faster if the interest is compounded multiple times per year. Compound interest is offered on a variety of investment products and also charged on certain types of loans, like credit card debt. Calculating how much an amount will grow under compound interest is simple with the right equations.

Part 1 Finding Annual Compound Interest.
1. Define annual compounding. The interest rate stated on your investment prospectus or loan agreement is an annual rate. If your car loan, for example, is a 6% loan, you pay 6% interest each year. Compounding once at the end of the year is the easiest calculation for compounding interest.
A debt may compound interest annually, monthly or even daily.
The more frequently your debt compounds, the faster you will accumulate interest.
You can look at compound interest from the investor or the debtor’s point of view. Frequent compounding means that the investor’s interest earnings will increase at a faster rate. It also means that the debtor will owe more interest while the debt is outstanding.
For example, a savings account may be compounded annually, while a pay-day loan can be compounded monthly or even weekly.
2. Calculate interest compounding annually for year one. Assume that you own a $1,000, 6% savings bond issued by the US Treasury. Treasury savings bonds pay out interest each year based on their interest rate and current value.
Interest paid in year 1 would be $60 ($1,000 multiplied by 6% = $60).
To calculate interest for year 2, you need to add the original principal amount to all interest earned to date. In this case, the principal for year 2 would be ($1,000 + $60 = $1,060). The value of the bond is now $1,060 and the interest payment will be calculated from this value.
3. Compute interest compounding for later years. To see the bigger impact of compound interest, compute interest for later years. As you move from year to year, the principal amount continues to grow.
Multiply the year 2 principal amount by the bond’s interest rate. ($1,060 X 6% = $63.60). The interest earned is higher by $3.60 ($63.60 - $60.00). That’s because the principal amount increased from $1,000 to $1,060.
For year 3, the principal amount is ($1,060 + $63.60 = $1,123.60). The interest earned in year 3 is $67.42. That amount is added to the principal balance for the year 4 calculation.
The longer a debt is outstanding, the bigger the impact of compounding interest. Outstanding means that the debt is still owed by the debtor.
Without compounding, the year 2 interest would simply be ($1,000 X 6% = $60). In fact, every year’s interest earned would be $60 if you did earn compound interest. This is known as simple interest.
4. Create an excel document to compute compound interest. It can be handy to visualize compound interest by creating a simple model in excel that shows the growth of your investment. Start by opening a document and labeling the top cell in columns A, B, and C "Year," "Value," and "Interest Earned," respectively.
Enter the years (0-5) in cells A2 to A7.
Enter your principal in cell B2. For example, imagine you are started with $1,000. Input 1000.
In cell B3, type "=B2*1.06" and press enter. This means that your interest is being compounded annually at 6% (0.06). Click on the lower right corner of cell B3 and drag the formula down to cell B7. The numbers will fill in appropriately.
Place a 0 in cell C2. In cell C3, type "=B3-B$2" and press enter. This should give you the difference between the values in cell B3 and B2, which represents the interest earned. Click on the lower right corner of cell C3 and drag the formula down to cell C7. The values will fill themselves in.
Continue this process to replicate the process for as many years as you want to track. You can also easily change values for principal and interest rate by altering the formulas used and cell contents.

Part 2 Calculating Compound Interest on Investments.
1. Learn the compound interest formula. The compound interest formula solves for the future value of the investment after set number of years. The formula itself is as follows: {\displaystyle FV=P(1+{\frac {i}{c}})^{n*c}}FV=P(1+{\frac  {i}{c}})^{{n*c}} The variables within the equation are defined as follows:
"FV" is the future value. This is the result of the calculation.
"P" is your principal.
"i" represents the annual interest rate.
"c" represents the compounding frequency (how many times the interest compounds each year).
"n" represents the number of years being measured.
2. Gather variables the compound interest formula. If interest compounds more often than annually, it is difficult to calculate the formula manually. You can use a compound interest formula for any calculation. To use the formula, you need to gather the following information.
Identify the principal of the investment. This is the original amount of your investment. This could be how much you deposited into the account or the original cost of the bond. For example, imagine your principal in an investment account is $5,000.
Locate the interest rate for the debt. The interest rate should be an annual amount, stated as a percentage of the principal. For example, a 3.45% interest rate on the $5,000 principal value.
In the calculation, the interest rate will have to be input as decimal. Convert it by dividing the interest rate by 100. In this example, this would be 3.45%/100 = 0.0345.
You also need to know how often the debt compounds. Typically, interest compounds annually, monthly or daily. For example, imagine that it compounds monthly. This means your compounding frequency ("c") would be input as 12.
Determine the length of time you want to measure. This could be a goal year for growth, like 5 or 10 years, or this maturity of a bond. The maturity date of a bond is the date that the principal amount of the debt is to be repaid. For the example, we use 2 years, so input 2.
3. Use the formula. Input your variables in the right places. Check again to make sure that you are inputting them correctly. Specifically, make sure that your interest rate is in decimal form and that you have used the right number for "c" (compounding frequency).
The example investment would be input as follows: {\displaystyle FV=\$5000(1+{\frac {0.0345}{12}})^{2*12}}FV=\$5000(1+{\frac  {0.0345}{12}})^{{2*12}}
Compute the exponent portion and the portion of the formula in parenthesis separately. This is a math concept called order of operations. You can learn more about the concept using this link: Apply the Order of Operations.
4. Finish the math computations in the formula. Simplify the problem by solving for the parts of the equation in parenthesis first, beginning with the fraction.
Divide the fraction within parentheses first. The result should be: {\displaystyle FV=\$5000(1+0.00288)^{2*12}}FV=\$5000(1+0.00288)^{{2*12}}
Add the numbers within parentheses. The result should be: {\displaystyle FV=\$5000(1.00288)^{2*12}}FV=\$5000(1.00288)^{{2*12}}
Solve the multiplication within the exponent (the last part above the closing parenthesis). The result should look like this: {\displaystyle FV=\$5000(1.00288)^{24}}FV=\$5000(1.00288)^{{24}}
Raise the number within the parentheses to the power of the exponent. This can be done on a calculator by entering the value in parentheses (1.00288 in the example) first, pressing the {\displaystyle x^{y}}x^{y} button, then entering the exponent (24 in this case) and pressing enter. The result in the example is {\displaystyle FV=\$5000(1.0715)}FV=\$5000(1.0715)
Finally, multiply the principal by the number in parentheses. The result in the example is $5,000*1.0715, or $5,357.50. This is the value of the account at the end of the two years.
5. Subtract the principal from your answer. This will give you the amount of interest earned.
Subtract the principal of $5,000 from the future value of $5357.50 to get $5,375.50-$5,000, or $357.50
You will earn $357.50 in interest over the two years.

Part 3 Calculating Compound Interest With Regular Payments.
1. Learn the formula. Compounding interest accounts can increase even faster if you make regular contributions to them, such as adding a monthly amount to a savings account. The formula is longer than that used to calculate compound interest without regular payments, but follows the same principles. The formula is as follows: {\displaystyle FV=P(1+{\frac {i}{c}})^{n*c}+{\frac {R((1+{\frac {i}{c}})^{n*c}-1)}{\frac {i}{c}}}}FV=P(1+{\frac  {i}{c}})^{{n*c}}+{\frac  {R((1+{\frac  {i}{c}})^{{n*c}}-1)}{{\frac  {i}{c}}}}[7]The variables within the equation are also the same as the previous equation, with one addition.
"P" is the principal.
"i" is the annual interest rate.
"c" is the compounding frequency and represents how many times the interest is compounded each year.
"n" is the number of years.
"R" is the amount of the monthly contribution.
2. Compile the necessary variables. To compute the future value of this type of account, you will need the principal (or present value) of the account, the annual interest rate, the compounding frequency, the number of years being measured, and the amount of your monthly contribution. This information should be in your investment agreement.
Be sure to convert the annual interest rate into a decimal. Do this by dividing the rate by 100. For example, using the above 3.45% interest rate, we would divide 3.45 by 100 to get 0.0345.
For compounding frequency, simply use the number of times per year that the interest compounds. This means annually is 1, monthly is 12, and daily is 365 (don't worry about leap years).
3. Input your variables. Continuing with the example from above, imagine that you decide to also contribute $100 per month to your account. This account, with a principal value of $5,000, compounds monthly and earns 3.45% annual interest. We will measure the growth of the account over two years.
The completed formula using this information is as follows: {\displaystyle FV=\$5,000(1+{\frac {0.0345}{12}})^{2*12}+{\frac {\$100((1+{\frac {0.0345}{12}})^{2*12}-1)}{\frac {0.0345}{12}}}}FV=\$5,000(1+{\frac  {0.0345}{12}})^{{2*12}}+{\frac  {\$100((1+{\frac  {0.0345}{12}})^{{2*12}}-1)}{{\frac  {0.0345}{12}}}}
4. Solve the equation. Again, remember to use the proper order of operations to do so. This means that you start by calculating the values inside of parentheses.
Solve for the fractions with parentheses first. This means dividing "i" by "c" in three places, all for the same result of 0.00288. The equation now looks like this: {\displaystyle FV=\$5,000(1+0.00288)^{2*12}+{\frac {\$100((1+0.00288)^{2*12}-1)}{0.00288}}}FV=\$5,000(1+0.00288)^{{2*12}}+{\frac  {\$100((1+0.00288)^{{2*12}}-1)}{0.00288}}
Solve the addition within the parentheses. This means adding the 1 to the result from the last part. This gives: {\displaystyle FV=\$5,000(1.00288)^{2*12}+{\frac {\$100((1.00288)^{2*12}-1)}{0.00288}}}FV=\$5,000(1.00288)^{{2*12}}+{\frac  {\$100((1.00288)^{{2*12}}-1)}{0.00288}}
Solve the multiplication within the exponents. This means multiplying the two numbers that are smaller and above the closing parentheses. In the example, this is 2*12 for a result of 24. This gives: {\displaystyle FV=\$5,000(1.00288)^{24}+{\frac {\$100((1.00288)^{24}-1)}{0.00288}}}FV=\$5,000(1.00288)^{{24}}+{\frac  {\$100((1.00288)^{{24}}-1)}{0.00288}}
Solve the exponents. This means raising the amount within parentheses to the result of the last step. On a calculator, this is done by entering the value in parentheses (1.00288 in the example), pressing the {\displaystyle x^{y}}x^{y} key, and then entering the exponent value (which is 24 here). This gives: {\displaystyle FV=\$5,000(1.0715)+{\frac {\$100(1.0715-1)}{0.00288}}}FV=\$5,000(1.0715)+{\frac  {\$100(1.0715-1)}{0.00288}}
Subtract. Subtract the one from the result of the last step in the right part of the equation (here 1.0715 minus 1). This gives: {\displaystyle FV=\$5,000(1.0715)+{\frac {\$100(0.0715)}{0.00288}}}FV=\$5,000(1.0715)+{\frac  {\$100(0.0715)}{0.00288}}
Multiply. This means multiplying the principal by the number is the first set of parentheses and the monthly contribution by the same number in parentheses. This gives: {\displaystyle FV=\$5,357.50+{\frac {\$7.15}{0.00288}}}FV=\$5,357.50+{\frac  {\$7.15}{0.00288}}
Divide the fraction. This gives {\displaystyle FV=\$5,357.50+\$2,482.64}FV=\$5,357.50+\$2,482.64
Add. Finally, add the two number to get the future value of the account. This gives $5,357.50 + $2,482.64, or $7,840.14. This is the value of the account after the two years.
5. Subtract the principal and payments. To find the interest earned, you have to subtract the amount of money you put into the account. This means adding the principal, $5,000, to the total value of contributions made, which is 24 contributions (2 years* 12 months/year) times the $100 you put in each month for a total of $2,400. The total is $5,000 plus $2,400, or $7,400. Subtracting $7,400 from the future value of $7,840.14, you get the amount of interest earned, which is $440.14.
6. Extend your calculation. To really see the benefit of compound interest, imagine that you continue adding money monthly to the same account for twenty years instead of two. In this case, your future value would be about $45,000, even though you will have only contributed $29,000, meaning that you will have earned $16,000 in interest.

FAQ.
Question : What does "to the power of" mean?
Answer : "To the power of" refers to a particular numerical exponent. It is a multiplication in which a number appears as a factor that many times. For example, 2 to the power of 1 equals 2. 2 to the power of 2 equals 2x2, or 4, and 2 to the power of 3 is 2 x 2 x 2, or 8.
Question : How do I find the compound interest on a 29,870 loan at 6% interest?
Answer : First take out the amount by the formulae: principle(1+ r/100) to the power n (number of years), then take out the ci by subtracting the principle from the amount.
Question : What do I type on a calculator to find compound interest?
Answer : Compound interest can be calculated in several ways. The most common is to say that A=Pe^(rt) where P is the initial amount, "e" is a constant around 2.71, "r" is the interest rate (i.e. 7% would be entered in as 0.07), "t" is the duration in which the interest is being calculated in years and "A" is the final amount.
Question : How do I know if it's better to owe interest on something or to pay a lump sum at no interest?
Answer : Cost/value analysis. Calculate the total you'll pay under both methods and find the difference. Then compare that difference to the value of buying now (with a loan) versus later (lump sum).
Question : How do I find the future value and the compound interest if £4000 is invested for 5 years at 42% p.a?
Answer : Principal=$4000, n=5, R=42%,0.42. The formula: FV=PV(1+r)r aise power n and substitute the value.
Question : How do I calculate principal in compound interest?
Answer : Principal = fv = p(1 + i/c)ⁿc. Formula for principal in compound interest (1 + R/100), where R = rate.

Tips.

You can also calculate compound interest easily using an online compound interest calculator. The US Government hosts a good one at https://www.investor.gov/tools/calculators/compound-interest-calculator.
A quick rule of thumb to find compound interest is the "rule of 72." Start by dividing 72 by the amount of the interest your are earning, for example 4%. In this case, this would be 72/4, or 18. This result, 18, is roughly the number of years it will take for your investment to double at the current interest rate. Keep in mind that the rule of 72 is just a quick approximation, not an exact result.[8]
You can also use these calculations to perform "what-if" calculations that can tell you how much you will earn with a given interest rate, principal, compounding frequency, or number of years.
05.21


How to Calculate Finance Charges on a Leased Vehicle.

At some point, you may want or need to have a new car. You may also want to weigh the cost differences between leasing and buying before you make your decision. One way to compare costs is to figure out exactly what you will be paying for each. When you buy a car, you finance the amount charged for the vehicle and the interest rate is clear. When you lease a car, you pay to use the vehicle for a period of time, similar to renting it, and turn it in at the end of the lease. The finance charges for a lease may not always be clear. To calculate the finance charges on a leased vehicle, you need to know only a few things: the net capitalized cost, residual value and money factor. If these are known, calculating your finance charges is a simple process.

Part 1 Collecting Necessary Data.

1. Determine the net cap cost. The term “net cap cost” is a shortened form of net capitalized cost. This is ultimately the overall price of the vehicle. The net cap cost may be affected by other additions or subtractions, as follows.

Any miscellaneous fees or taxes are added to the cost to increase the net cap cost.

Any down payment, trade in or rebates are considered “net cap reductions.” These are subtracted and will reduce the net cap cost.

Suppose, for example, that a vehicle is listed with a cost of $30,000. There is a rebate or you make a down payment of $5,000. Therefore, the net cap cost for this vehicle is $25,000.

2. Establish the residual value of the vehicle. This is a bit like predicting the future. The residual value is the vehicle’s value at the end of the lease, when you will return it. This is always a bit uncertain because nobody can predict the exact condition of the vehicle, the mileage or the repairs that it will undergo during the lease. To establish the residual value, dealers use industry guide books, such as the Automotive Leasing Guide (ALG).

The graphic shown above illustrates the decline in the vehicle’s value over time. For this example, the residual value at the end of the term is set at $15,000.

Some dealers choose not to use the ALG. Instead, they may develop their own guide or functions for setting residual values.

3. Find out the dealer’s money factor. Leased vehicles do not charge interest in the same way that purchase agreements do. There is, however, a finance charge that is analogous to interest. You are paying the leasing company for the use of their vehicle during the term of your lease. This charge is based on a number called the “money factor.”

The money factor is not generally publicized. You will need to ask the dealer to share it with you.

The money factor does not look like an interest rate. It will generally be a decimal number like 0.00333. To compare the money factor to an annual interest rate, multiply the money factor by 2400. In this example, a money factor of 0.00333 is roughly like a loan interest rate of 0.00333x2400 = 7.992% interest. This is not an exact equivalence but is a regularly accepted comparison value.

Part 2 Performing the Calculations.

1. Add the net cap cost and the residual value. The finance charge is based on the sum of the net cap cost and the residual value. At first glance, this appears to be an unfair doubling of the car’s value. However, in combination with the money factor, this works as a way to average the net cap cost and the residual value. You end up paying the finance fee on an average overall value of the car.

Consider the example started above. The net cap cost is $25,000, and the residual is $15,000. The total, therefore, is the sum of $25,000+$15,000 = $40,000.

2. Multiply that sum by the money factor. The money factor is applied to the sum of the net cap cost and the residual value of the car to find the monthly finance charge.

Continuing with the example above, use the money factor 0.00333. Multiply this by the sum of the net cap cost and residual as follows:

$40,000 x 0.00333 = $133.2.

3. Apply the monthly finance charge. The result of the final calculation is the monthly finance charge that will be added to your lease payment. In this example, the finance charge is $133.20 each month.

4. Figure the full monthly payment. The finance charge may be the largest portion of your monthly payment, but you cannot count on it to be the full payment. In addition to the finance charge, many dealers will also charge a depreciation fee. This is the cost that you pay to compensate the dealer for the decreased value of the car over time. Finally, you may be responsible for assorted taxes.

Before you sign any lease agreement, you should find out the full monthly charge you are responsible for. Ask the dealer to itemize all the costs for you, and make sure that you understand and can afford them all.

Part 3 Negotiating with the Dealer.

1. Ask for the data you want. Many people, when leasing a vehicle, seem satisfied to accept the bottom line figure that the dealer assigns. However, to verify that any deal you negotiate is actually honored, you need to know the details of the finance charge calculations. Without asking for the data, you could be the victim of carelessness, simple error, or even fraud.

You could negotiate a reduced price for the vehicle, but then the dealer could base the calculations on the original value anyway.

The dealer might not apply proper credit for a trade-in vehicle.

The dealer could make mathematical errors in calculating the finance charge.

The dealer could apply a money factor other than the one used in the original negotiations.

2. Press the dealer for the “money factor.” The money factor is a decimal number that car dealerships use to calculate the finance charges. This number is not an interest rate but is somewhat analogous to interest rates. Some lease dealers may publicize the money factor, while others may not. You should ask for the money factor that your dealer is using. Also ask how the money factor is used to calculate the finance fee charged on your lease.

3. Ask the dealer to show you the calculation worksheet. The dealer is not required to share with you the calculations that go into the finance charge and monthly payments on your leased vehicle. Unless you ask specifically, you will probably never see that information. You should ask the dealer, sales clerk or manager to share the calculations with you. Even if you have the individual bits of data, you may not be able to confirm that the figures were calculated accurately or fairly unless you compare your notes to the dealer’s calculations.

4. Threaten to leave if the dealer is not forthcoming with information. The only leverage you have in the negotiations over a leased vehicle’s finance charges is the ability to walk away. Make it clear to the dealer that you want to verify the calculations and the individual pieces of information that go into figuring your finance charges. If the dealer is unwilling to share this information with you, you should threaten to leave and lease your car from somewhere else.

Tips.

If the lease dealership will not provide you with the money factor, go to a different dealer. You cannot determine and compare your true costs and fair value unless you have this information.

The higher the car value at lease end (that is, less depreciation), the less your finance charges will be, which, in turn, will reduce your monthly payment.

Warnings

Some dealers may present the money factor number so that it is easier to read, such as 3.33; however, this could be misinterpreted as the interest rate. Be aware that this is not the rate that will be used. This number should be converted to the actual money factor by dividing by 1,000 (3.33 divided by 1,000 = 0.00333).

Be aware that the finance cost (as calculated here to be $133.20) is not necessarily your total monthly payment. It is only the finance charge and may not include other charges such as sales tax or the acquisition fee.

Things You'll Need : Net cap cost, Residual cost, Money factor, Paper, Pen or pencil, Calculator.
03.31


How to Owner Finance a Home.

There are many benefits to an owner financing deal when purchasing a home. Both the buyer and seller can take advantage of the deal. But there is a specific process to owner financing, along with important factors to consider. You should begin by hiring people who can help you, such as an appraiser, Residential Mortgage Loan Originator, and lawyer.

Part 1 Hiring People to Help You.

1. Hire an appraiser. Both the buyer and the seller should hire their own appraiser to determine the value of the house. The seller receives an appraisal in order to select a price for the home, and the buyer gets an appraisal to confirm that the selling price is fair. You can find an appraiser in the following ways:

look in the Yellow Pages, ask for a referral from a mortgage company, bank, or realtor, contact your state’s licensing agency.

2. Hire a real estate attorney. Both parties should work closely with a real estate attorney. A real estate attorney can draft all of the necessary paperwork. The attorney can also protect your interests. For example, the buyer can include a protection clause just in case the property has to be sold in response to a life changing event, job relocation or loss, divorce or death.

You can get a referral to a real estate attorney by contacting your local or state bar association. Bar associations are organizations made up of attorneys, and they often provide referrals to their members or can help you find an attorney.

3. Get advice from a Residential Mortgage Loan Originator (RMLO). A Residential Mortgage Loan Originator can give you advice on how to manage owner financing in a way that is transparent and compliant with regulations. When you owner finance a home, you are essentially providing the buyer a loan until they complete their payments on the home. Since you want your agreement to be clear and binding, it's good to work with a mortgage professional.

Your RMLO can help ensure that your owner financing documents are compliant with the Safe Act and Dodd Frank Act.

Make sure your RMLO is properly licensed by your state. Check with your state’s Department of Business Oversight or equivalent state office to check.

Part 2 Preparing for the Sale.

1. Get approval if you still have a mortgage. Owner financed sales work best when the owner has title free and clear or the owner can pay off the mortgage with the buyer’s down payment. However, if the seller still has a large mortgage, they need to get their lender’s approval.

Check whether you can pay off the mortgage with the buyer’s down payment. If not, then contact your mortgage company and discuss that you want to sell the house.

2. Consider performing background checks to control risk. Both the seller and buyer should perform background checks on each other. Many owner financed sales are short-term, for five years or so. At the end of the term, the buyer is expected to refinance and then make a “balloon payment,” paying off the balance of the loan. As a seller, you will want assurance that a buyer can get a traditional loan at the end of the contract term, which means you definitely want to check their credit history and employment.

In fact, sellers should consider having buyers complete a loan application. You can verify references, employment history, and other financial information.

Buyers also benefit from background checks. For example, they might discover that the seller has been financially irresponsible. If the seller still holds a mortgage on the home, there is a risk of default.

3. Determine loan details. One advantage of an owner financed sale is that the seller controls details about the financing. Because the seller is assuming a lot of risk, they should come up with terms that protect them. Talk with your attorney about what the terms of the loan should be. Consider the following.

a substantial down payment (usually 10% or more), an interest rate that is higher than usual (though less than your state’s maximum allowable interest rate), a loan term you are comfortable with.

4. Ask your lawyer draft a purchase and sale agreement. You want to protect yourself legally by making sure that you have all of the necessary legal documents prepared. Your real estate attorney can draft a purchase and sale agreement, which both seller and buyer will sign. This document provides information about the following:

closing date, name of the title insurance company, final sale price, details about a down payment, if any.

contingencies which must be met for the sale to proceed, such as an acceptable inspection and a clear title report.

5. Draft a promissory note. The seller also needs the buyer to sign a promissory note or other financial instrument. Your lawyer can draft this document for you. It should contain the following information.

borrower’s name, property address, amount of the loan, interest rate, repayment schedule, terms for late or missed payments, consequences of default.

6. Have your lawyer draft a mortgage. The mortgage provides security for the loan. Your lawyer should also draft this document for you. The mortgage is what allows you to repossess the house should the buyer default on the loan.

Part 3 Completing the Sale.

1. Agree on an interest rate and term with the buyer. Your RMLO partner will calculate the agreed upon amount based on a specific period of time and if you have agreed on a balloon payment. Remember that not every state allows balloon payments.

For example, you can base monthly payment amount on a hypothetical 30-year mortgage, but schedule payment of the remaining amount in 5 years (balloon). The RMLO will also create required disclosures for the seller/lender.

2. Close the sale. Both the buyer and seller should have independent attorneys who can review all paperwork to make sure that it is complete. You should schedule a closing to sign everything and make copies.

3. Hire a loan servicer to manage payments. The seller should talk to their lawyer about whether they want to hire a loan servicer. If they do, then their lawyer can recommend someone. A loan servicer provides many important services.

collects the mortgage payments, sets up an escrow, handles tax statements and payments, makes insurance payments, processes payment changes, performs collection services, if necessary.

4. Record your mortgage or deed of trust. You can record it in the county land records office. Doing so will allow the buyer and the seller to take advantage of tax deductions. Making the deal official in this manner also proves that the sale took place.

Part 4 Deciding Whether an Owner Financed Sale is Right.

1. Analyze your situation as a seller. Owner financed sales are rare, and you shouldn’t jump into one until you have thoroughly considered your situation. Think about the following.

You usually must own the house free and clear of any mortgage. Otherwise, you will need your lender to give you permission to sell.

Taxes can be complicated and you’ll want to hire a tax professional to help you.

You might have to go through the foreclosure process if the buyer stops making payments. This can be costly and time-consuming.

However, you may make much more money on an owner financed sale than if you sell the traditional way.

2. Determine if an owner financed sale is ideal as a buyer. Buyers usually like owner financed sales because a seller might be less choosy than a bank or mortgage lender. However, you should consider the following.

You might have to come up with a larger down payment than you normally would. The owner-seller is taking a risk by financing your sale, and in return they might want a larger down payment or higher interest.

Owner financed sales often close faster than other sales.

You need to be sure you can make the balloon payment if one is written into the contract. If you break the contract, then you could lose the house and all of the payments you have made up to that point.

3. Talk with professionals if you have questions. In addition to working with a real estate lawyer, you might want to meet with a tax professional, such as a certified public accountant. Ask about the tax benefits of an owner financed sale compared to selling outright.

If you are a buyer, then you should talk about how to raise your credit score so that you qualify for a traditional mortgage when the balloon payment comes due.

4. Make sure your buyer can cover the balloon payment. Owner financing is most often used when the buyer or property does not qualify for a conventional loan. This means the buyer may not have the resources to cover the balloon payment at the end of your term. Discuss your buyer's options before entering into a contract with them.

If you are a buyer, make sure that you have your options for paying the balloon payment lined up before you agree to the seller's terms.

5. Consider a lease-to-own option. This option is often more advantageous for the buyer and less complicated for the seller. You and the person interested in your home will lock in a potential sale price for the home, as well as a lease agreement ranging from 2 to 5 years. During that time, the person will pay you rent on the home, with a portion of that rent going toward a down payment on the house. After the lease ends, the person can choose to proceed with the sale as arranged, or they can opt to walk away.

If they walk away, they don't get a refund on the extra money they paid toward the down payment.

If they do walk away, you'll need to relist your home.

Tips.

The seller should ask that the buyer purchase homeowner's insurance and confirm the seller as mortgagee.

The seller should establish a land contract. With a land contract, title doesn’t pass to the buyer until the final payment has been made. Discuss this option with your attorney and see if such a contract is feasible.


23.07

How to Use the Rule of 72.

The Rule of 72 is a handy tool used in finance to estimate the number of years it would take to double a sum of money through interest payments, given a particular interest rate. The rule can also estimate the annual interest rate required to double a sum of money in a specified number of years. The rule states that the interest rate multiplied by the time period required to double an amount of money is approximately equal to 72.
The Rule of 72 is applicable in cases of exponential growth, (as in compound interest) or in exponential "decay," as in the loss of purchasing power caused by monetary inflation.

Method 1 Estimating "Doubling" Time.
1. Let R x T = 72. R is the rate of growth (the annual interest rate), and T is the time (in years) it takes for the amount of money to double.
2. Insert a value for R. For example, how long does it take to turn $100 into $200 at a yearly interest rate of 5%? Letting R = 5, we get 5 x T = 72.
3. Solve for the unknown variable. In this example, divide both sides of the above equation by R (that is, 5) to get T = 72 ÷ 5 = 14.4. So it takes 14.4 years for $100 to double at an interest rate of 5% per annum. (The initial amount of money doesn't matter. It will take the same amount of time to double no matter what the beginning amount is.)
4. Study these additional examples:
How long does it take to double an amount of money at a rate of 10% per annum? 10 x T = 72. Divide both sides of the equation by 10, so that T = 7.2 years.
How long does it take to turn $100 into $1600 at a rate of 7.2% per annum? Recognize that 100 must double four times to reach 1600 ($100 → $200, $200 → $400, $400 → $800, $800 → $1600). For each doubling, 7.2 x T = 72, so T = 10. So, as each doubling takes ten years, the total time required (to change $100 into $1,600) is 40 years.

Method 2 Estimating the Growth Rate.
1. Let R x T = 72. R is the rate of growth (the interest rate), and T is the time (in years) it takes to double any amount of money.
2. Enter the value of T. For example, let's say you want to double your money in ten years. What interest rate would you need in order to do that? Enter 10 for T in the equation. R x 10 = 72.
3. Solve for R. Divide both sides by 10 to get R = 72 ÷ 10 = 7.2. So you will need an annual interest rate of 7.2% in order to double your money in ten years.

Method 3 Estimating Exponential "Decay" (Loss).
1. Estimate the time it would take to lose half of your money (or its purchasing power in the wake of inflation). Let T = 72 ÷ R. This is the same equation as above, just slightly rearranged. Now enter a value for R. An example.
How long will it take for $100 to assume the purchasing power of $50, given an inflation rate of 5% per year?
Let 5 x T = 72, so that T = 72 ÷ 5 = 14.4. That's how many years it would take for money to lose half its buying power in a period of 5% inflation. (If the inflation rate were to change from year to year, you would have to use the average inflation rate that existed over the full time period.)
2. Estimate the rate of decay (R) over a given time span: R = 72 ÷ T. Enter a value for T, and solve for R. For example.
If the buying power of $100 becomes $50 in ten years, what is the inflation rate during that time?
R x 10 = 72, where T = 10. Then R = 72 ÷ 10 = 7.2%.
3. Ignore any unusual data. If you can detect a general trend, don't worry about temporary numbers that are wildly out of range. Drop them from consideration.

Method 4 Derivation.
1. Understand how the derivation works for periodic compounding.
For periodic compounding, FV = PV (1 + r)^T, where FV = future value, PV = present value, r = growth rate, T = time.
If money has doubled, FV = 2*PV, so 2PV = PV (1 + r)^T, or 2 = (1 + r)^T, assuming the present value is not zero.
Solve for T by taking the natural logs on both sides, and rearranging, to get T = ln(2) / ln(1 + r).
The Taylor series for ln(1 + r) around 0 is r - r2/2 + r3/3 - ... For low values of r, the contributions from the higher power terms are small, and the expression approximates r, so that t = ln(2) / r.
Note that ln(2) ~ 0.693, so that T ~ 0.693 / r (or T = 69.3 / R, expressing the interest rate as a percentage R from 0-100%), which is the rule of 69.3. Other numbers such as 69, 70, and 72 are used for easier calculations.
2. Understand how the derivation works for continuous compounding. For periodic compounding with multiple compounding per year, the future value is given by FV = PV (1 + r/n)^nT, where FV = future value, PV = present value, r = growth rate, T = time, and n = number of compounding periods per year. For continuous compounding, n approaches infinity. Using the definition of e = lim (1 + 1/n)^n as n approaches infinity, the expression becomes FV = PV e^(rT).
If money has doubled, FV = 2*PV, so 2PV = PV e^(rT), or 2 = e^(rT), assuming the present value is not zero.
Solve for T by taking natural logs on both sides, and rearranging, to get T = ln(2)/r = 69.3/R (where R = 100r to express the growth rate as a percentage). This is the rule of 69.3.
For continuous compounding, 69.3 (or approximately 69) gives more accurate results, since ln(2) is approximately 69.3%, and R * T = ln(2), where R = growth (or decay) rate, T = the doubling (or halving) time, and ln(2) is the natural log of 2. 70 may also be used as an approximation for continuous or daily (which is close to continuous) compounding, for ease of calculation. These variations are known as rule of 69.3, rule of 69, or rule of 70.
A similar accuracy adjustment for the rule of 69.3 is used for high rates with daily compounding: T = (69.3 + R/3) / R.
The Eckart-McHale second order rule, or E-M rule, gives a multiplicative correction to the Rule of 69.3 or 70 (but not 72), for better accuracy for higher interest rate ranges. To compute the E-M approximation, multiply the Rule of 69.3 (or 70) result by 200/(200-R), i.e., T = (69.3/R) * (200/(200-R)). For example, if the interest rate is 18%, the Rule of 69.3 says t = 3.85 years. The E-M Rule multiplies this by 200/(200-18), giving a doubling time of 4.23 years, which better approximates the actual doubling time 4.19 years at this rate.
The third-order Padé approximant gives even better approximation, using the correction factor (600 + 4R) / (600 + R), i.e., T = (69.3/R) * ((600 + 4R) / (600 + R)). If the interest rate is 18%, the third-order Padé approximant gives T = 4.19 years.
To estimate doubling time for higher rates, adjust 72 by adding 1 for every 3 percentages greater than 8%. That is, T = [72 + (R - 8%)/3] / R. For example, if the interest rate is 32%, the time it takes to double a given amount of money is T = [72 + (32 - 8)/3] / 32 = 2.5 years. Note that 80 is used here instead of 72, which would have given 2.25 years for the doubling time.


FAQ.
Question : When would I need to use the rule of 72?
Answer : It's a handy shortcut when considering compounded, monetary gains or losses. For example, you might want to know how long it would take for invested money to double in value, given a specific rate of interest.
Question : How do I calculate compound interest?
Answer : The formula for annual compound interest (A) is: P [1 + (r / n)]^(nt), where P=principal amount, r = the annual interest rate as a decimal, n = the number of times the interest is compounded per year, and t = the number of years of the loan or investment.
Question : What is APY for an APR of 3.5% compounded?
Answer : It depends on how often the interest compounds: annually, semi-annually, quarterly, monthly or daily.

Tips.

Let the Rule of 72 work for you by starting to save now. At a growth rate of 8% a year (the approximate rate of return in the stock market), you would double your money in nine years (72 ÷ 8 = 9), quadruple your money in 18 years, and have 16 times your money in 36 years.
The value of 72 was chosen as a convenient numerator in the above equation. 72 is easily divisible by several small numbers: 1,2,3,4,6,8,9, and 12. It provides a good approximation for annual compounding at typical rates (from 6% to 10%). The approximations are less exact at higher interest rates.
You can use Felix's Corollary to the Rule of 72 to calculate the "future value" of an annuity (that is, what the annuity's face value will be at a specified future time). You can read about the corollary on various financial and investing websites.

Warnings.
Let the rule of 72 convince you not to take on high-interest debt (as is typical with credit cards). At an average interest rate of 18%, semiretired credit card debt doubles in just four years (72 ÷ 18 = 4), quadruples in eight years, and becomes completely unmanageable after that.
04.38

How to Find a Buyer for Your Annuity.

Although an annuity is meant to provide steady income, particularly when you retire, there are circumstances under which you might decide to sell your annuity. For example, you might decide to sell your annuity in order to buy a home, invest in a business, or to cover the costs of an emergency. Perhaps you've done the math and discovered that your annuity isn't the best most profitable option for you, and you'd like to reinvest. To find the right buyer for your annuity, look for buyers who can give you the terms you desire. If time permits, get competing offers rather than going for the first buyer you find.

Part 1 Evaluating Your Annuity.
1. Determine whether or not your annuity is transferable. If your annuity is not transferable, then you cannot sell it under any circumstances. Check your contract to see if it is transferable. If you are trying to get immediate funds, list your nontransferable annuity as an asset or form of income and apply for a bank loan.
2. Determine if your annuity is a structured settlement. Check your contract or consult your accountant to learn about the laws in your state. Most states have laws that protect people trying to sell their structured annuity. If your state has a Structured Settlement Protection Act, your transaction will have to be approved by a state court. The Periodic Payment Settlement Act protects those who received a cash sum as a result of personal injury and wrongful death lawsuits, from spending the awarded money too quickly, which may then force them to turn to public assistance to meet their needs.
Don’t try to sell a structured annuity by yourself, especially if you are living in a state that does not have a structured annuity protection law. Talk to a trusted broker and attorney before you proceed.
3. Evaluate your annuity. Before you shop around for annuity buyers, find out what the resale value of your annuity is. Hire an accountant if you are unclear on the details of your investment and its relative worth. Keep in mind that selling your annuity always result in your receiving a lower amount of money from your annuity. You will get a lump-sum payment that is adjusted with a discount rate, meaning that you'll get about 8 to 14 percent less than you would if you waited for the payments.
4. Understand the tax implications of selling your annuity. All annuities offer tax-deferral from the time of your initial investment. Your distributions, however, are taxable. This means that your annuity grows tax-free in the accumulation phase, but is taxed as distributions are made to you. These payments are taxed as ordinary income.
Gains made by selling your annuity before it matures are taxable as ordinary income. However, losses on the sale are not tax-deductible as investment losses.
If you withdraw from an annuity before age 59.5, you are also charged a 10% tax penalty. However, exceptions are made in various cases, such as the death or disability of the annuity holder.
You can also trade your annuity for another qualified annuity contract without paying taxes on the first annuity. These "1035" exchanges can be tricky, so check with a tax accountant or investment adviser before proceeding.

Part 2 Finding a Buyer.
1. Search for potential annuity buyers. Your best source for locating a potential buyers is the insurance agent that first sold you the annuity. They understand the market well and will likely have contacts for this sort of transaction. Additionally, they may also charge you a reduced commission for finding a buyer, as you already paid them a commission when you purchased the annuity. Alternately, you can search for an annuity buyer online. Before working with any of these companies, make sure that they:
Have positive, independent reviews of their services.
Have excellent customer service.
Can make a competitive offer for your annuity.
Are licensed to conduct business and follow all appropriate regulations.
Communicate timelines and figures in a transparent way.
Recommend that you first consult with a financial professional before selling.
Try checking with the Better Business Bureau (BBB) to identify whether or not the company is reputable. Companies with poor ratings from the BBB should be avoided.
Some reputable buyers of annuities include JG Wentworth, Catalina Structured Funding, Peachtree Financial, and Stone Street Capital. These companies can be contacted by phone or through their respective websites.
2. Hire a broker. If you are having trouble finding potential buyers, or if you can't find the price you think is reasonable, hire a broker. You’ll have to pay a brokerage fee, but you may stand to gain from the expertise of the broker's negotiations. Choose your broker carefully. Check their certifications to ensure that they are licensed to negotiate the sort of sale you want to make.
Ask the broker you want to hire for a quote. If they quote you a percentage, calculate it before you agree.
Look up the name of a broker you haven't worked with before. Any violations or complaints they have might be online.
3. Get offers for your annuity. Try to obtain offers from at least five companies before you choose. When you find companies online, use their quote form to get a free quote from them. A quote is not necessarily the amount you would receive, and it may not include the fee that may be deducted when a settlement is reached.
When you fill out the free quote form, give them only the standard information. Your name, email address and the name of your annuity should be the only information they ask for.
Do not give your social security number, bank information, or pay any fees to obtain a free quote.
Give yourself as much time as you can to make the sale. A rushed sale is less likely to get you a good deal.
4. Pick the best offer. Getting an offer of about 80% of the value of your annuity would be considered a good deal. Do not take a deal in which your buyer expects you to pay fees out of pocket before a settlement is agreed upon. Once you have finalized your agreement, all agreed upon court costs, legal fees and commissions should be deducted from the final settlement.
5. Gather your paperwork. To sell your annuity, you will need copies of your original annuity application and your annuity policy. If you are already collecting on your annuity, you will need your most recent disbursement check and tax return. If you have a settlement agreement, you will need a copy of that. Bring your valid government issued id, such as a passport or driver's license, and a written declaration that you are selling your annuity of your own free will.
Gather any other documentation your buyer requires, such as a copy of a court judgment for a structured annuity, or copies of any release agreements.

Part 3 Deciding What Kind of Sale to Make.
1. Decide what type of funding you are trying to get from your sale. Investigate the various ways annuity buyouts are made. Remember that no matter what kind of deal you make, the buyer will get the better deal in the long term. You will likely be offered anywhere from 60% to 85% of the value of your annuity. With this in mind, consider alternatives to selling your annuity.
If you are just selling your annuity to free up some cash, taking out a loan might better serve your purposes.
2. Consider selling as a straight purchase. If you sell as a straight purchase, the buyer will give you one lump-sum payment for your annuity. You will not go on to collect future payments. Choose to sell as a straight purchase if you are trying to get the largest immediate sum possible, or if you have determined that your annuity is not serving its purpose.
If you sell an annuity contract, you will have to pay ordinary income tax on your annuity's earnings.
3. Consider selling as a partial purchase. In this case, the buyer purchases your immediate annuity payments for a set period. At the end of that time, you once again collect your annuity payments as scheduled. Consider this option if you have a temporary shortage of cash, but would like to continue investing in your retirement.
4. Consider selling as a reverse purchase. Sell several years of your annuity. For example, if you are now receiving $1,000 per month for the next 15 years, sell your payments from years 5 through 10 only. You will get a lump sum for those years, but still receive your current payments up through year 4. You will then receive no monthly payments in years 5 through 10, but they will resume in years 11 through 15.
Know that this will result in a lower overall payout from your annuity. You will get the money for the sold years up front, but it will be lower than the total value of the payments from those years.
You also need to be sure of the value of the future payments before any deals are made.
This might be a good option if you need money now, but know you will be able to support yourself during an upcoming time period.
5. Consider selling as split purchases. If your buyer makes a split purchase, they will receive part of your monthly payment. If you only need $500 a month and your annuity payment is $1,000, sell half your annuity; you will get an immediate lump sum for the half you don't need, and continue to receive monthly payments of $500.
Even though you've only sold half the annuity, you will still pay ordinary income taxes on the deferred earnings and any gains made on the sale.

Tips. 

Give yourself as much time as possible to make the best sale. Let the companies you deal with know that you are making casual inquiries. If you appear to be shopping around without rushing, you will be more likely to get better, more competitive offers.
13.15


How to Protect Your Finances Against Market Crashes.

Economic expansions don't last forever, and eventually, the country will enter another recession. When it does, you need to protect your investments so that you can weather the storm. Assess how exposed you are to stocks and decide whether to diversify your portfolio with safer investments. Also clean up your balance sheet by reducing your debts, which will allow you to survive the recession that accompanies a stock market crash.

Method 1 Changing Your Investments.

1. Check your current investment allocation. You might have no idea what your retirement fund is currently invested in. If not, log into your account and print out the current allocation of investments, which should include the following:

stocks or stock mutual funds, bonds,real estate,money market accounts.

2. Identify why you fear a market crash. The economy goes up and down with some regularity, and when the market crashes stocks suddenly become cheaper to buy. For this reason, you might not want to diversify your portfolio. Instead, you can leave your investments as they are.

However, you might want to reduce your exposure to risk if you are nearing your retirement age or have just entered retirement. A major stock market crash could seriously cut the amount of money you have to live on.

Your tolerance for risk might also have changed. If so, then you can diversify your portfolio so that you are comfortable with your investment mix.

It’s impossible to predict exactly when the next recession will hit, so you shouldn’t move money in and out of the stock market hoping to get out just before things turn south. For example, it looked like the U.S. stock market was about to crash in late 2015. Since then, the Dow Jones Industrial Average has increased more than 20%.

3. Consider holding money in a savings account. The easiest way to protect your investments is to get out of stocks and move the money to savings accounts. Consider the following options:

High-yield online savings accounts. These accounts will only earn about 1-2% annually, but this amount is higher than most banks offer. Your cash is liquid, so you can access it if needed. Furthermore, your deposit will be protected by the Federal Deposit Insurance Corporation (FDIC) up to $250,000 USD.

Money market accounts. These accounts are like bank accounts but with potentially higher returns. You can write checks against the money market account. Open with your bank or with a company like Scottrade or TD Ameritrade.

Certificates of Deposit. Banks and credit unions sell "CDs," which you can buy for a set sum. You are prohibited from accessing the money until the CD matures, but you will earn interest on the investment.

4. Invest in bonds. Bonds are debt. Companies, as well as governments, issue bonds to raise money, and bonds are a safer investment than stock. Consider putting more of your investment into bonds, such as the following:

Municipal bonds. State and local governments issue bonds to raise money, and in return the bonds are exempted from income taxes. You can typically earn 3% annually on bonds. They are a low-risk investment, unless the city government is on the verge of bankruptcy.

U.S. savings bonds. These bonds are very safe. With a Series I bond, you get a fixed interest rate, and your return is linked to inflation. With the Series EE bond, you earn an automatic rate of return each month.

Treasury Inflation Protected Securities (TIPS). The U.S. government offers a fixed interest rate as well as inflation protection that’s triggered every time inflation increases.

Image titled Protect Your Finances Against Market Crashes Step 5

5. Consider annuities. An annuity is a contract with an insurer or financial services company. You make a lump sum payment, and in return you are provided with a fixed sum of money for a specific amount of time. There are several varieties of annuities, which can protect your investments in case of a market crash. For example, fixed-indexed annuities can protect your principal.

Annuities are safer than stocks, but they do have some risks. For example, the company you bought the annuity from could go bankrupt. In that situation, you will no longer be paid. You can protect yourself by doing thorough research and only buying an annuity from a company with the highest rating.

The value of an annuity can also erode with inflation, though you can buy annuities that will protect against inflation.

6. Find safer stocks. Not all companies are the same, and some are safer investments in a down economy than others. For example, you might want to get rid of low-grade stock, such as companies with a lot of debt or businesses in speculative fields like biotech that have not yet produced strong profits. In a market crash, the value of these companies will decline.

Instead, look to high-quality stocks which tend to hold up better. These companies have stable earnings and low debt.

Also consider stocks that pay dividends. Check if you can invest in a dividend exchange-traded fund.

7. Change your contributions. If you’re not yet in retirement, you should consider changing the allocation of your retirement contributions for the last few years before you stop working. Direct your contributions toward safer investments, such as those discussed above.

Changing your contributions will not change the allocation of investments already in your portfolio, so consider diversifying it.

8. Diversify your portfolio. When the market is good, riskier investments such as stocks perform well. But when the market crashes, you can expect stocks to perform poorly. Accordingly, you might want to diversity your portfolio and move some money out of stocks.

How much to move is up to you. However, you don’t have to get out of stocks entirely. Instead, you could reduce stocks to 30% of your portfolio, and have the other 70% in bonds or another safe investment. In a market crash, your losses will remain in the single digits, and you can move back into stocks after the market improves.

If you don’t know what to do, meet with a financial planner who can help you assess your risk tolerance and come up with a plan suited to your needs.

Method 2 Reducing Your Debt.

1. Identify all of your debts. In a market crash, you’ll need as much cash as possible to pay for living expenses. Accordingly, you want to decrease your debt load as much as possible now. Begin by identifying every debt you have, including any of the following:

student loan debt, credit card debt, home mortgage,car loan,personal loans.

2. Prioritize your debts. You need to make the minimum monthly payments on all debts. However, you should direct extra money to the debts you want to pay off the most. Accordingly, sit down and prioritize your debts.

For example, if you lose your job, then you can often delay payments on student loans, using either forbearance or deferment. Accordingly, you might not want to pay down your student loans first but instead focus on credit cards, which probably have a higher interest rate.

However, some debts are tied to an asset. For example, you can lose your car or home if you don’t make payment. Paying these debts off early could be a wise choice.

3. Create a budget. To free up money to contribute to debt payments, you’ll need to budget. Identify the following:

Your fixed expenses. These are bills that don’t change much month to month. Generally, fixed expenses are also for necessities, such as your rent or mortgage, health insurance premiums, car payments, and other debts.

Your discretionary spending. You can track your discretionary spending over the course of one or two months. Write down what you buy every day and note the price. Alternately, you can buy everything with a debit or credit card and then look at your monthly statement.

Reduce discretionary spending. You need your income to exceed your discretionary spending. To free up as much money as possible, reduce discretionary spending to the bare minimum by giving up gym memberships and cable TV. You can also cut out vacations, entertainment expenses, and meals in restaurants.

4. Refinance your mortgage. Mortgage rates are still low. If you have a high APR, then consider refinancing into a loan with a lower one. Avoid spending the money that you save and instead funnel it toward debt repayment.

To investigate a mortgage refinance, contact your current lender to check what rate they can offer you. Then compare their rates to others on the market.

5. Tackle credit card debt. You want a stable balance sheet when the market crashes, so you should reduce your debts as much as possible. In particular, you should pay down high-interest credit card debt. Identify a method of repayment so that you can wipe out these debts as soon as possible:

Debt avalanche. You pay the minimum monthly payment on all credit cards. Then you contribute extra money to the debt with the highest interest rate. Once you pay off that card, focus on the debt with the second highest interest rate.

Debt snowball. Another method is to pay the minimum on your monthly debts but then use extra to pay off the card with the smallest balance first. The debt snowball method is more expensive than the debt avalanche, but it can give you momentum.

Debt snowflake. This method is ideal for people who can’t budget extra money to pay down debt. Instead, you try to save a little bit of money every day and make multiple monthly payments to slowly chip away at your debt.

Method 3 Preparing for Emergencies.

1. Build an emergency fund. You’ll need money in case you lose your job or if any kind of emergency springs up. Generally, you should save at least six months of expenses. If possible, save up to twelve months of expenses.

Put money toward your emergency fund every month, even if that means you pay off debts more slowly.

If you are a retiree, then you should try to have two years of expenses saved. When the market declines, you should live off your savings instead of drawing income from your investments.

2. Buy insurance. Insurance protects you from any unforeseen accidents that will hammer you financially. In an economic downturn, you’ll need all the money you can get, and insurance will provided valuable protection in case an accident strikes. Consider the following types of insurance:

Health insurance. If your employer doesn’t offer it, you can buy it on the government exchanges. Depending on your income, you might quality for a premium subsidy and/or help with out-of-pocket expenses.

Automobile insurance. Your insurance will pay if you injure someone in an accident. Depending on the insurance, you might also be covered if someone without coverage injures you.

Disability insurance. If you are disabled before you reach retirement, you’ll need income to support you. Your employer probably offers disability insurance. If not, you can shop on your own.

Life Insurance. You can replace the income of a working spouse with a life insurance policy. Life insurance is particularly important if you have young children. Calculate how much life insurance you need at lifehappens.org.

Homeowner’s insurance. Your homeowner’s policy covers injuries that occur on your property, as well as any structural damage caused by natural disasters and other accidents.

3. Assess the stability of your job. In a market crash, many jobs will be wiped out as employers are forced to lay off workers. You need to assess whether your job is stable enough to survive a recession, or whether you should plan on getting a different job.

Look at how many people your employer laid off during the last recession. Were only a few let go? If so, your job might be secure. However, if your employer engaged in mass layoffs, then there’s no reason to assume it won’t happen again.

You can also pick up some freelance or part-time work now. That way, if the market crashes, you’ll still have some income coming in.

Tips.

Consult with a personal financial counselor to help plan, protect, and control how your finances and money in the future.


23.09


How to Find Investors for a Small Business.

If you want to start a small business or expand an existing one, then you’ll need to find money. One option is to bring on investors. There are many potential investors out there. However, you need to identify which ones will invest in your business and then put together a compelling presentation. When you meet with investors, remember to answer questions with confidence.

Part  1 Identifying Potential Investors.
1. Ask small business groups. You might not know where to begin. It’s probably best to start close to home. Meet with other small business owners or stop into your local Chamber of Commerce. Ask if they know of investors for your business.
2. Contact the Small Business Administration (SBA). In the U.S., the Small Business Investment Company (SBIC) program helps small businesses find investors. Over $21 billion of capital has been channeled through this program. Each SBIC is privately owned. However, they are licensed and regulated by the SBA.
You can find the SBIC directory here: https://www.sba.gov/sbic/financing-your-small-business/directory-sbic-licensees.
For purposes of the SBIC program, a small business generally has a net worth of less than $18 million and net income of $6 million or less. Furthermore, some business are prohibited from participating in the program.
3. Find a local incubator or accelerator. These organizations help start-ups turn their ideas into a real business, and they provide funding as well. You can find an incubator or accelerator near you by using the National Business Incubation Association’s directory listing.
Generally, incubators help start-ups or new businesses, while accelerators help already-established businesses grow faster.
Incubators might not provide investments directly. However, they can help connect you to potential investors.
4. Look at online crowdfunding. You can reach investors worldwide by using an online crowdfunding site, such as Equity.net. These websites give you access to hundreds of investors who can help you finalize your business plan and grow your business.
5. Remember family and friends. People who know you might invest in your business, especially since they can see your drive and determination. Remember to approach them as you would any other investor.
Friends and family will want some return on their investment, just like other investors. However, you might be more flexible in what you can offer. For example, instead of making them part-owners, you might want to provide them with free goods or services in return.
You also should think about asking people you know for a loan instead of for an investment. With a loan, you don’t have to give up any ownership in your business. Also, if your business fails, you can wipe out a loan in bankruptcy.
6. Hire a business capital broker. These brokers have networks of potential investors that they can contact. You can find a business capital broker online or by talking to other businesses that might have used a broker.
7. Consider if venture capital is right for you. Venture capital is a term used to describe a variety of investors, including private equity firms, venture capital firms, and angel investors. Although different, they share similarities.
They take big risks for potential big financial rewards. Accordingly, venture capital usually invests in industries with large growth potential, such as technology or biomedicine. Very few businesses qualify for venture capital financing.
They are actively involved in your business. For example, they will probably demand a seat on your board in exchange for investment capital. However, they often are experienced in your industry and can help you grow.
They have a longer investment horizon than other forms of financing.
8. Find venture capital investors. Look online at websites such as Angel Capital Association, Angel Investment Network, and Funded.com. Investors use these sites to find businesses to invest in.
The Angel Capital Association has a directory listing accredited investors. You can search by region or state. Links are provided so that you can visit the investor’s website to learn more about them.

Part 2 Putting Together a Presentation.
1. Run the numbers. You need to know how much money you’re after. If you need a small amount, you might only seek out one investor. However, if you need a lot of capital, then you’ll need to know that as well. Calculate how much money you need for your small business.
Also consider how much of your equity you are willing to give up in return. Investors don’t give loans. Instead, they take a share of ownership in exchange for money. You’ll need to come up with something reasonable.
For example, if your business is worth $100,000 and you want $25,000, then you’ll need to give up around 25% of the business’ equity.
2. Update your business plan. Your investors will want to see your business plan, which you should have already created if you are an existing business. The plan will identify your market, competitors, and include financial projections for five years.
Update the financial information so that it is current.
You should also bulk up the executive summary to your plan. Investors often will skip other parts but focus on the summary, so spend extra time on it.
Make the business plan colorful and include graphics so that the information is easy to digest.
3. Research the investor. You need to know whether a potential investor will be interested in your business. Many investors focus on only certain industries, so you’ll save yourself time if you figure out ahead of time their focus.
Look online to check what businesses they have invested in.
Look at their LinkedIn profile to see if you know people in common. If so, ask whether the investor might be interested in your business.
4. Ask for a meeting. There’s no one way to reach out to an investor. If someone recommended the investor to you, then mention the recommender’s name in your email or when you call. Alternately, you can send your email to the recommender, and they can then forward it on to the investor.
In the body of your email, clearly communicate what you do.
Mention the age of your business. Are you a start-up? Have you been in business for ten years?
Identify any other investors you have worked with. For example, an investor might have given you start-up funds five years ago.
Provide dates when you are willing to meet. Try to be as flexible as possible.
Proofread your email so that it looks professional.
Attach something to show the investor your business. For example, you might create a short video that shows your products or services.
5. Know your story. Investors aren’t only investing in a business. They are also investing in a person—you. Accordingly, they’ll want to know stuff about you. You need to be able to explain the following.
What about your background has led you to this point?
How have you benefited from your previous business experience. Be prepared to point to specific achievements.
6. Prepare for common questions. You can’t anticipate in advance everything a potential investor will ask you. However, there are some common questions you should think through.
What has been the biggest mistake you’ve made in your business?
How are your competitors outperforming you? Why?
Is anything working against your business, e.g., new regulations, demographic changes, etc.?
Why are you seeking funding?
What are your long-term growth plans? How do you intend to get there?
7. Get help from a Small Business Development Center. Your nearest SBDC can help you pull together a business plan, find potential investors, and prepare for meeting with investors. Contact the nearest SBDC and schedule an appointment.
You can find the nearest office here: https://www.sba.gov/tools/local-assistance/sbdc.

Part 3 Meeting with Potential Investors.
1. Make a memorable presentation. You’ll probably make a presentation to investors, which can take many forms. For example, you might make a PowerPoint presentation or create a booklet for the investor to flip through. With other investors, you’ll simply sit and talk. Whatever form your presentation takes, it’s important not to simply repeat the contents of your business plan.
Yes, the investor wants to understand your financials, which is why you have a business plan handy for them to take and read. However, it doesn’t hurt to get creative.
Show the investor your product or service. If you are expanding a pastry business, have an assortment of pastries with you. If you provide a service, then you can create a short video that shows your business in action. You need to give the investor a concrete idea of what your business does.
Remember that pictures are more memorable than words. If you create a PowerPoint, don’t fill it up with text.
2. Be brief. Your presentation shouldn’t take more than 20 minutes. If you use a PowerPoint, then it shouldn’t have more than 15 slides. Practice your presentation until you it is the right length.
3. Ask for advice at the first meeting. Don’t dive right in and ask for money. A potential investor needs time to mull over your business idea before they can decide whether they want to invest. Accordingly, you should spend the first meeting tapping the investor’s business knowledge.
However, you can subtly work money into the discussion. For example, you can say in an offhand manner, “I’ve been thinking I’d need $130,000 to open a new store in that location, but I’d like to hear from you if there are hidden costs you’ve found in your experience…”
4. Be honest. An investor won’t cut a check until they perform due diligence. They’ll want to take a closer look at your business financials, and they will uncover any misrepresentation you make. Always be honest in your business plan and in your conversations with potential investors.
Admit when you don’t know an answer. An investor will appreciate your honesty.
If you lie to one investor, then they will talk to others in their community. You’ll get a bad name and not be able to find any investors.
5. Project confidence. Potential investors want to see that you have faith in your business. Avoid being arrogant, which shows that you are insecure. Instead, project quiet confidence in the following ways:
Listen. Insecure people chatter all the time and laugh awkwardly to fill up silence. Be prepared to listen.
Stand up straight. Put your shoulders back when you sit and stand.
Make eye contact when talking and listening to someone.
Avoid fidgeting.
6. Remember to ask the investor questions. Any investor will take an ownership stake in your business. Accordingly, you’ll need to vet them as well. Ask the following questions before agreeing to work with someone.
What other projects are they investing in? Check whether or not they are similar to your business, or whether they are in different industries.
When was their last investment? If the investor hasn’t been investing in a while, they may not be serious.
How do they plan to increase your company’s value?
What factors will you consider before deciding to invest?
How active do they want to be in the business? Does the investor want a seat on the board, handle day-to-day operations, etc.?
7. Follow up with the investor. After a first meeting, thank the investor by sending them an email. It’s unlikely that they’ll agree to invest after only one meeting, so you want to keep the doors of communication open. A short, professional "thank you" email can do the trick.
You can also keep the investor updated on the progress of your business. For example, if you were rolling out a new product, let them know how it is going.
8. Stay professional if rejected. It’s hard to tell why people choose not to invest in businesses. You might not have been a right fit, or they might have already chosen to invest in a similar business. Regardless of the reason, you can control how you respond. Stay professional and thank them for their time.
Remember that you might run into the investor later down the road, when they are more willing to invest in you. There’s no reason to burn bridges right now.
9. Keep trying. Avoid being discouraged if you don’t get many offers, or if every presentation you give results in a rejection. You probably haven’t found the right investor yet. Keep searching, because the perfect investor may still be out there.

FAQ.

Question : How can I attract customers for my trading business?
Answer : Advertisement is key. Go to your local paper and ask them if they would run an article on your business, or just buy advertising within the paper. You can also start a social media group and add friends and family to help spread the word. Creating a website, or having one created for you, is also ideal. this will show possible investors that you are dedicated to this and will also give them a chance to see what would be in it for them.
Question : What are basic rules to follow when speaking to an investor?
Answer : You must possess and demonstrate the following characteristics: Professionalism, manners, wisdom, soundness, honesty, commitment, passion and determination.
Question : I'm looking for an investor for my restaurant. Where can I find more information?
Answer : Seek out colleges and universities that have master chef programs. You will find that the same people who are donating money to these schools come from within social circles that are also interested in helping to establish finer restaurateurs.
Question : How can I find an investor for an international school I want to establish in Ghana?
Answer : For an international school, you could try fundraising websites and create a social media group to help spread awareness. People will donate money to worthy causes, if they are aware of them.
Question : How do I find someone to invest in a business I want to purchase?
Answer : It depends on the type of business you are purchasing. Look for trade associations local to you area and find out if they have regular meetings you might attend.
Question : How can I find a business partner?
Answer : You can put the word out on social media or by handing out flyers at pertinent businesses. Offer perks for your business partners.
Question : How can I find a foreign investor to distribute products in Myanmar?
Answer : I would start with contacting the Myanmar Embassy in Washington, D.C. They should be able to assist with your questions concerning international trade, as well as help to put you in contact with the people who do the licensing for international trade and distribution of goods and services.
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