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How to Calculate Finance Charges on a New Car Loan.

While some people save until they can buy a car in full, most people take out a car loan. This makes newer and better cars more accessible to everyone. However, it also makes car ownership even more expensive in the long run. Before taking out a loan, you should consider the additional money you will pay in interest for the duration of your loan. These payments, also known as finance charges, will be included in your payments and can be calculated either as monthly payments or as a sum total over the life of your loan.

Part 1 Clarifying the Terms of Your Loan.

1. Determine how much you will borrow. Typically, buyers will make a cash down payment on their new car and borrow from a lender to cover the remaining cost. This borrowed amount, known as the principal, will serve as the basis for your car loan. Keep in mind that you should put as much money down on your car as possible to minimize the amount borrowed and reduce your finance charges.

This step will require you to know roughly how much your new car will cost. See How to Buy a New Car for more information about finding a good price and working within your budget.

2. Figure out the annual percentage rate (APR) and duration of your loan. The APR reflects how much additional money you will have to pay beyond your principal for each year of your loan. A low APR will reduce the yearly and monthly amounts of finance charges on your loan. However, many low-APR loans are longer in duration, so the overall cost may remain relatively high. Alternately, a short-term loan with a higher APR may end up being cheaper overall. This is why it is important to calculate your finance charges beforehand.

Getting a low APR on your car loan may mean seeking other lenders beyond your car dealership. Be sure to do your research and select the cheapest available combination of APR and duration. See How to Get a Low APR on a Car Loan for more information.

3. Find out how many payments you will make each year. The majority of car loan payments are made on a monthly basis. When calculating your monthly payments, you will need to know both how many payments you will make each year and how many payments you will make in total. This information can be easily found in the terms of your car loan.

Part 2 Calculating Your Monthly Finance Charges.

1. Save time by using an online calculator. There are many car loan payment calculators available for free online. Take advantage of these free services if you don't want to spend the time calculating your payments yourself. Search "Car loan payment calculator" and you will be provided with many options. If you still want to work it out by hand, continue to the next step.

2. Find your interest rate due on each payment. Start by converting your APR to a decimal by dividing it by 100. For example, if your APR is stated at 8.4%, 8.4/100 = 0.084. Next, find your monthly percentage rate by dividing your APR decimal by 12. So, 0.084/12 = 0.007. This is your monthly percentage rate expressed as a decimal.

3. Multiply your monthly percentage rate times your principal. If, for example, your principal were $20,000 (if you borrowed $20,000 to buy your car), you would multiply this by 0.007 (from the previous step) and get 140.

4. Input this number into the monthly payment formula. The formula is as follows: Monthly Payment = (Interest rate due on each payment x principal)/ (1 – (1 + Interest rate due on each payment)^ -(Number of payments)). The top part of the equation (interest rate due on each payment x principal) is your number from the previous step. The rest can be calculated using a simple calculator.

The "^" indicates that the figure (-(Number of Payments)) is an exponent to the figure (1 + Interest rate due on each payment). On a calculator, this is entered by calculating 1 + interest rate due on each payment, hitting the button x^y, and then entering the number of payments. Keep in mind that the number of payments is made negative here (multiplied by negative one).

In our example, the calculation would go as follows (assuming a loan duration of 5 years or 60 months):

Monthly Payment = (0.007 x $20000)/(1-(1+ 0.007)^-60.

Monthly payment = $140/(1-(1.007)^-60).

Monthly payment = $140/(1-0.658).

Monthly payment = $140/0.342.

Monthly payment = $409.36 (this number may be off by a few cents due to rounding).

5. Calculate the amount of principal paid each month. This is done by simply dividing your principal amount by the duration of your loan in months. For our example, this would be $20,000/60 months = $333.33/month.

6. Subtract your principal paid each month from your monthly payment. In our example, this would be $409.36 - $333.33. This equals roughly $76. So, with this loan agreement, you would be spending $76 per month in interest payments alone.

Part 3 Calculating Your Loan's Total Finance Charges.

1. Find your monthly payment. To find your total finance charges over the life of your loan, start by calculating your monthly payment. How to do this is explained in the previous section.

2. Plug that number into the total finance charges formula. The formula is as follows: Monthly Payment Amount x Number of Payments – Amount Borrowed = Total Amount of Finance Charges.

So, in our example, this would be.

$409 x 60 - $20,000 = Total amount of finance charges.

$24,540 - $20,000 = Total amount of finance charges.

Total amount of finance charges = $4,540.

3. Check your work. To be sure that you calculated your total correctly, divide that number by the total number of payments (60, in this case). $4,540/60 = 76. If the result matches your monthly finance charges you calculated earlier, then you have the correct number for total finance charges.

Tips.

Use this process to compare loan plans to ensure that you end up with the lowest possible value for overall finance charges.

Using an online loan calculator will always be simpler and more convenient than working out the numbers on your own. These online calculators are always accurate.

The calculator included on most smartphones is capable of doing the math here. If you don't have a smart phone or calculator to use, try typing your equation into Google's search bar, as it will solve most simple problems.

With good credit and a large down payment, it may be possible to get a car loan with 0% APR.

Warnings.

While uncommon, some lenders can use a more complicated form of interest called compound interest that will throw off these calculations. Be sure to ask if your car loan charges simple interest (the kind described in this article) before counting on these equations.



20.27


How to Get a Small Business Loan. 

Whether you’re planning to expand an existing business or just now getting one off the ground, a small business loan can give you the financial support you need. Not all businesses can get a small business loan, so you need to take special care when applying for one. Make sure your credit history is as strong as possible, and search for lenders. Lenders will want to see numerous financial documents, so gather them ahead of time. Although getting a small business loan takes a lot of work, it is possible.

Part 1 Improving Your Credit Profile.
1. Pull your personal credit score. Most lenders will look at your personal credit history, even when you apply for a business loan. For this reason, obtain your credit score and check whether it’s high enough to qualify for the best interest rates. Generally, you’ll need a score above 680. You can get your credit score in the following ways:
Check your credit card statement. Many credit card companies now give their customers their FICO score.
Buy your FICO score for $20 at myfico.com.
Use a free website, such as CreditKarma.com or Credit Sesame.com.
2. Obtain a copy of your personal credit report. Errors on your credit report can pull down your credit score. In the U.S., you can get a free copy of your credit report each year from the three major Credit Reporting Agencies (CRAs). Don’t contact the CRA’s individually. Instead, visit annualcreditreport.com or call 1-877-322-8228. All three credit reports will be sent to you.
3. Remove inaccurate information from your credit report. Highlight any errors and contact the CRA that has the wrong information. Common errors include accounts listed that don’t belong to you or accounts inaccurately listed as in default.
You can contact the CRA directly through its website. If the inaccurate information appears on more than one credit report, you only need to contact one CRA, which will alert the other two.
It can take up to 60 days to remove inaccurate information.
4. Improve your credit score. Paying down your balances is the fastest way to improve your credit score. Tackle high-interest debts first, such as credit card debts. Send every monthly payment on time and pay at least the minimum. You should see a slow but steady improvement in your credit score.
Avoid taking out a new credit card, which will temporarily hurt your score. Instead, you can ask for an increase in the credit limit on one or more cards.
Unfortunately, there’s no quick fix for improving your credit score, and you should avoid any company promising to improve your score fast. These companies are often scammers.
5. Build your business credit. Lenders will also look at your business credit profile. Start building your business credit history by obtaining a D-U-N-S number from Dun & Bradstreet. You can get it for free by registering at their website.
Your creditors should report your payment history to Dun & Bradstreet. If not, list them as trade references. Dun & Bradstreet will then follow up and collect payment information.
Your business credit report will contain information about court judgments or liens against your business. You can boost your business credit by paying off any liens and judgments.

Part 2 Identifying Loans and Potential Lenders.
1. Determine the type of loan you need. There are several types of business loans you can get. You should identify the type you need before talking to a lender. Consider the following options.
Line of credit. You can draw from a credit line whenever you’re short of cash. For example, you might need money to make payroll or pay a vendor. You then pay back what you drew on your credit line. A line of credit is a lot like a credit card.
Installment loan. You can get an installment loan to expand operations. You pay it back in equal monthly installments over one to seven years.
Equipment loan. You get a loan to buy equipment, and the lender takes a security interest in the equipment until the loan is paid back. If you default on your loan, the lender seizes the equipment.
2. Stop into banks. Some banks are hesitant to lend to small businesses, but you still should stop in and talk to a loan officer. Discuss your business and ask for the bank’s requirements. You should stop in at least a month before you intend to apply.
Visit banks you’ve done business with as well as banks with whom you have no prior relationship. However, local community banks are more likely to lend to a small business than a large national bank.
3. Check with credit unions. Credit unions have increased the number of business loans they make, so they are a good option for small business owners. You’ll need to become a member of the credit union before you can apply for a business loan, but setting up an account shouldn’t be too burdensome. Credit unions typically offer better rates and lower fees than traditional banks.
4. Research online lenders. Online lending has exploded over the past few years and is a good option if your credit isn’t perfect. You can find online lenders at different aggregator sites, such as LendingTree and Fundera.
There are many online scammers, so thoroughly research online lenders. Look up the business with the Better Business Bureau and Google the company to check for complaints. Only do business with an online lender that has a street address.
5. Research government-backed loans. In many jurisdictions, the government will guarantee loans. This means they agree to pay back a certain percentage of the loan if the borrower defaults. Because of this guarantee, you generally get more favorable interest rates and repayment terms.
In the U.S., the Small Business Administration (SBA) guarantees small business loans. It’s most popular loan program is the 7(a) program which guarantees up to $5 million in loans. 7(a) loans can be used to build a new business or expand an existing one.
Even though the SBA guarantees the loan, you still apply with a bank. Talk to the bank about whether it is experienced with SBA loans and ask if it is part of the SBA Preferred Lender Program (PLP).
6. Ask friends or family for a loan. The people who know you the best might be willing to loan your business money. Approach your friends and family in the same manner you would a bank. Provide them with a copy of your business plan and your financial documents.
You can agree to pay interest, which will show that you are serious about repaying the loan. In the U.S., the interest rate shouldn’t be higher than the maximum allowed in your state, but it should be at least the federal funds rate, which you can find at the IRS website.
Also draft a promissory note and sign it, which will make the loan official.

Part 3 Gathering Required Information.
1. Create a personal financial statement. Every owner who owns at least 20% of your business should create a personal financial statement. Financial statements contain information about your assets, such as cash, mutual funds, certificates of deposits, and real estate. They also identify all liabilities owed to lenders, creditors, and the government.
2. Pull together business financial documents. Lenders will want to see your business balance sheet, profit and loss statement, and cash flow statement. If you need help creating these documents, consult with an account.
Ideally, your financial statements should be audited by a certified public accountant. Ask another business owner if they would recommend their CPA, or contact your nearest accounting society to obtain a referral.
3. Collect other required information. Lenders want a complete picture of your business, so they will require plenty of paperwork. Gather this ahead of time so that the application process goes smoothly. Get the following.
Personal tax returns for the past three years.
Recent personal bank statements.
Business tax returns for the past three years.
Recent business bank statements.
Resumes for each owner and member of management.
Business leases.
Articles of Organization (if an LLC) or Incorporation (if a corporation).
Franchise agreement (if applicable).
4. Show you have the necessary down payment. Generally, you need a cash down payment of 20%. If you hope to borrow $100,000, then you should have $20,000 in cash. Make sure that you have bank records showing the necessary down payment.
5. Draft a business plan. Your business plan lays out where your business is headed in the next few years and how you plan to get there. Lenders want to see a solid business plan before they will make a loan. Your business plan should identify your target market, marketing plan, management, and financial projections.
Some lenders want your business plan to contain specific information. Stop into the bank before applying and ask about their specific requirements.
Business plans can be hard to write. In the U.S., you can get help at your nearest Small Business Development Center, which you can find at https://www.sba.gov/tools/local-assistance/sbdc.
6. Document any collateral. Some lenders won’t give you a loan unless you pledge assets as collateral. Collateral protects lenders since they can seize the assets if you default on your loan. Common forms of collateral include inventory, heavy equipment, accounts receivables, and your home.
You should document the location and condition of the collateral. If possible, hire an appraiser to value the collateral.

Part 4 Applying for Your Loan.
1. Fill out your application. Each lender’s application will be slightly different. However, most will ask your reasons for applying for the loan, as well as the identity of your management team. Also identify any suppliers you will be buying assets from.
Each lender will pull your credit report, which will ding your credit score. However, all credit pulls in a two-week window will count as a single pull, so plan accordingly.
2. Wait to hear back. You should hear back within two to four weeks. If you want, you can call once a week and ask for an update on your application status. The lender might need more documentation, so provide it as quickly as possible.
About 80% of applicants for small business loans are rejected, so don’t be surprised if you get turned down. Ask any lender who rejects you to explain why. For example, you might need to save a larger down payment or draft a better business plan.
If no lender will give you a loan, consider other forms of funding, such as getting a business credit card.
3. Review the loan terms. Any lender that approves you should provide a term sheet which contains the details of the loan—the loan period, the annual percentage rate, and fees. Make sure you are comfortable with the terms.
You probably will need to personally guarantee the loan. This means that if you stop making payments, the lender can come after your personal assets, such as your car or home.
4. Close on the loan. Sign the term sheet or commitment letter and return it to the lender. The lender will then schedule a closing, which usually happens 45-60 days later. If your loan is guaranteed by the SBA, you’ll work with the loan officer to gather the necessary documents to submit. At the closing, you will review and sign a variety of documents before receiving your loan proceeds.

FAQ.

Question : Where can I find investors for small business?
Answer : If you're in the U.S., contact your nearest Chamber of Commerce or Small Business Development Center. They might know of local investors who are interested in small businesses.
Question : Are there any charities the will help me start a business?
Answer : You should start looking into crowdfunding websites. If people like your product or service, they'll donate money. Sometimes you can give the donators your product/service at a discounted price as an incentive.
21.42



How to Finance a Used Car.

If you need a car and can't afford to buy one with cash, financing is always an option. If you want to finance a used car, you have the choice of getting your own direct financing, or having the dealer obtain financing for you. If you have a low credit score, "Buy Here Pay Here" lots may be your only option, but should only be used as a last resort.


Method 1 Getting a Direct Loan.

1. Request a copy of your credit report. Knowing your credit score will give you a good idea of what kind of rates and terms you'll potentially be offered. In the United States, you're entitled to one free copy of your credit report every year.

Check your report for errors or inaccuracies that could be affecting your credit score.

If you have a credit score of 680 or above, you're a prime borrower and should be able to get the best possible rates. The higher your score, the lower the rate you can potentially negotiate with lenders.

2. Contact local banks and credit unions. If you have had a credit or savings account with the same bank for a number of years, start there when looking for a direct car loan. Your history as a customer may get you better rates.

Branch out to other banks in your area. Credit unions often have more forgiving loan terms and fewer restrictions.

Banks typically won't do a direct car loan for a car purchased from a private owner or an independent dealership. In those situations, you may need to try to take out a personal loan. This is also true if you're buying a collector or exotic car.

3. Try online lenders. If you're not a prime borrower, it's still possible to get a direct loan for a used car. There are a number of online lenders who are willing to finance used cars for people with less than stellar credit.

Since online lenders have less overhead, they typically will offer you a lower rate than you could get from a brick-and-mortar bank or credit union.

These loans may come with more restrictions than the direct loan you could get from a bank with better credit. For example, they may not finance cars more than five years old, or cars with over 100,000 miles.

4. Get rates from multiple lenders. Before you choose a loan, apply for several so you can compare the rates offered. Many banks and lending companies have a pre-approval process that won't affect your credit.

Multiple offers may give you the opportunity to negotiate for a better deal. For example, if you got a better rate from a different bank than from your own bank, you could get your bank to match that rate to get your business.

5. Complete a loan application. Once you've decided which lender you want to use for your financing, you'll typically have to fill out a full loan application. Many lenders give you the option to complete the application online.

You'll need to provide basic identification information, such as your driver's license and Social Security numbers. You also may need to provide basic financial information regarding your income and debts.

If you've had some credit problems in the past, you may want to go into a bank and apply for the loan in person so you can talk to a lending agent.

Your loan agreement will include basic requirements that the car must meet. As long as the car meets these requirements, you can use the financing to purchase the car.

6. Negotiate with the dealer. In most cases, you're going to secure direct or "blank check" financing before you find the specific car you want to buy. Having financing already secured puts you in a stronger position to get the best price from the dealer.

When you bring your own financing, you're saving the dealer a lot of costs. Ask if there's a discount available for that.

Since you're buying a used car, have it inspected before you buy it and go over the car's history. The car is a better buy if it's had fewer owners and never been in an accident.

7. Give the dealer your blank check. Lender policies vary, but in most cases you'll get a check for the exact amount of your car, or a blank check that's worth any amount up to the maximum amount your lender has approved.

When you buy a car using direct financing, you still must maintain full coverage insurance on the car. Your loan agreement will include information on the minimum amounts of coverage you must maintain.


Method 2 Using Dealer Financing.

1. Research interest rates. Dealers have special financing offers available throughout the year. Especially if you're not picky about the make or model of your car, shop around and see who has the best deal.

Know your credit score and how qualified you are for different offers. Typically the best offers are only available for prime borrowers with credit in the 700s or higher.

If you're trading in an old car, look for dealer offers to double the price on a trade-in, or pay a minimum amount for any trade-in regardless of its condition.

2. Choose your car. If you've done your research, you have a few dealerships in mind. You should be able to evaluate their inventory online before you go visit in person. Find the best car for you, looking at overall price.

Dealers may advertise monthly payment amounts rather than total price. This can be a way to charge you a higher interest rate.

Dealers typically will finance any car on their lot, so you may have more variety to choose from if you use dealer financing than you would if you used direct financing. However, this might not necessarily be a good thing – you still need to check the car's history and have it inspected before you buy.

3. Offer a sizable down payment. Cars depreciate in value. If you're buying a used car, you want to finance as little of the total price of the car as possible. A down payment of 10 to 20 percent of the purchase price of the car typically will get you the best rates.

A sizable down payment can help you avoid being underwater on your loan – meaning you owe more for the car than it is worth. This is particularly important to avoid when you're financing a used car, which could develop mechanical problems relatively quickly.

4. Apply for financing through the dealer. You'll need basic identification information as well as information about your income and employment to complete the financing application at the dealership.

It may take a few minutes, but in most cases the dealer will have a financing offer available for you that day. Then they'll call you back into an office to discuss the terms you've been offered.

The finance company may require additional documents from you, such as pay stubs to verify income. If the dealer mentions any of these, make sure you get copies to the dealer as soon as possible so as not to jeopardize your financing offer.

5. Negotiate the deal. If you've done your research and know your credit score, you may be able to get better terms from the dealer than what you're initially offered. Review each term and see if you can improve it.

For example, you typically want the shortest term loan, since it will usually have the lowest interest rates. But dealers often focus on the amount of the monthly payment. Financing for a shorter term does mean a higher monthly payment, but it will save you money overall.

6. Use cash for extras. Dealers tend to tack on extra fees, including sales tax, registration fees, and document or destination fees. You also may end up paying extra for dealer warranties, especially for a used car.

The dealer typically has no problem rolling these extra fees into your financing, but there's no point in paying interest on fees and tax. Pay that out of pocket if you can.


Method 3 Using "Buy Here Pay Here" Financing

1. Exhaust all other options. If you need a car and have had credit problems or have an extremely low credit score, BHPH financing is available for you. However, due to the high rates you should consider this only as a last resort.

There are some franchised dealerships, particularly Ford and Chevy dealerships, who are willing to work with customers who have bad credit. It may be possible for you to get a loan there. It wouldn't be the best rates, but it you would still pay less than you would at a BHPH lot.

If you have a relative with a good credit score, you might find out if they are willing to co-sign on the loan with you. That could get you a better rate or make traditional lenders more willing to work with you. This option can be especially valuable if you're young and don't have much, if any, credit history.

2. Ask if the dealer reports to credit bureaus. Because BHPH lots finance the car themselves, they don't always report to credit bureaus. If you have bad credit or no credit, you want the payments you make for your car reported so you can start to rebuild your credit.

You may have to visit several lots before you find one that reports to credit bureaus, but be persistent.

3. Research the car thoroughly. Any car you buy from a BHPH lot typically is sold "as is." Some of these cars may have mechanical problems, and the lot may not be required to disclose those problems before you buy the car.

Demand a Carfax or similar car history report so you can see how many owners the car has had and whether it's been in an accident. These lots typically have older cars, so they've likely had several owners – but a car that's changed hands several times in the past few years may be a red flag.

Take the car to a reputable mechanic before you buy it and have them conduct a thorough inspection. If there are any major repairs that need to be made, you may be able to convince the lot to make those repairs before you purchase the car.

4. Negotiate with the dealer. BHPH dealers often present the price of a car – and the financing terms – as though they are non-negotiable, but that's typically not true. Even though you may not be in the best bargaining position, you can still try to get a better deal.

The more of a down payment you can make, the better your terms typically will be. These lots often specialize in low down payments, but that doesn't mean you can't pay more.

If you're buying a car at a BHPH lot, your down payment should be as high as possible to keep you from ending up underwater – try to aim for somewhere between 40 and 60 percent down.

5.
Make your payments on time. You typically won't have to make payments for a long term, but it's essential to make every payment on time if you want to rebuild your credit. Some BHPH lots will repossess a car after as few as one missed payment.

Some BHPH lots require you to make a trip to the lot with your payment. Depending on how the financing is structured, you may be required to make weekly or bi-monthly payments. If you have a checking account and the lot offers automatic payments, sign up for them so you won't have to worry about it.

At most BHPH lots, you won't pay any less if you pay the loan off early. Ask about this when you buy the car. If the lot is reporting to the credit bureau and you won't save any money by paying the loan off early, just keep making the payments on time. All those payments will reflect well on your credit score.
15.28



How to Understand Personal Finance Basics.

Understanding your personal finances can be very overwhelming, particularly if you’re just starting out. It is tough to know how best to handle your money, how to go about paying off debt, and where and when to invest. By following some basic steps for doing these things, as well as saving for emergencies and retirement and insuring the assets you’ve worked hard to obtain, you can begin to understand your personal finances and become more confident in your ability to make good decisions regarding them.





Learning How to Create a Budget.



Gather your financial statements and information. Creating a budget is one of the most important aspects of personal finance. A solid budget allows you to plan for how you’ll spend the money you bring in each month and illustrates your spending patterns. To begin, gather all the financial information you can, including bank statements, pay stubs, credit card bills, utility bills, investment account statements, and any other information you can think of.

Most people make monthly budgets so your goal is to figure out how much you make in a month and what your monthly expenses are. The more detail you can provide, the better your budget will be.



Record your monthly income. After gathering all of your financial data, separate out your sources of income. Record the amount of income you bring home in a month. Be sure to include any side jobs you have.

If your income varies from month to month, it may be helpful to figure out your average monthly income for the last six months or so.



List your fixed monthly expenses. Next, look over your financial documents and record any fixed expenses you have, or those that are essential and do not change much from month to month.

Fixed expenses can include things like mortgage payments or rent, credit card payments, car payments, and essential utilities like electric, water, and sewage.



List your variable monthly expenses. You also need to record your variable monthly expenses, which are items for which the amount of money you spend each month varies. These expenses are not necessarily essential and are likely where you will make adjustments to your spending in your budget.

Variable expenses can include things like groceries, gasoline, gym memberships, and eating out.



Total your monthly income and expenses. Once you have recorded all of your income and expenses, both fixed and variable, total each category. Ultimately, you want your income to be larger than your expenses. If it is, you can then decide where it is best for you to spend your excess income. If your expenses are more than your income, you will need to make adjustments to your budget to cut your spending or increase your income.



Adjust your variable expenses to hit your goal. If your budget shows you are spending more than you are earning in income, look at your variable expenses to find places you can cut back on spending, since these items are usually non-essential.

For example, if you are eating out four nights a week, you may have to cut this back to two nights a week. This will free up money you can put toward essential expenses like college loans or credit card debt.

In addition, you may be paying unnecessary monthly fees, like overdraft or late fees. If you are spending money on these types of fees, work on making your payments on time and keeping a bit of a cushion in your bank account.

Alternatively, you can work on earning more instead of spending less. Evaluate whether or not you can pick up a few extra hours of work a week, work overtime, or work any side jobs to increase the amount of money you’re bringing in each month.



Review your budget every month. At the end of each month, take some time and review your spending over the past month. Did you stick to your budget? If not, where did you veer off course? Pinpointing where you are exceeding your budget will help you figure out what kind of spending you need to pay attention to most. Reviewing your budget can also be encouraging if you find you are sticking to it. You may find that it’s extremely motivating seeing the amount of money you saved by cutting back the number of days you eat out a week, for example.













Strategizing to Pay Down Debt..



Pay more than the minimum amount due each month. Even following a strict budget doesn’t mean you can totally avoid debt. Large purchases, like cars, school, and houses often require you to take out a significant loan. In addition, it can be easy to rack up credit card debt quickly. One of the personal finance basics you must understand is how to take care of this debt as quickly as possible. The first step to doing this is to pay more than the minimum payment as often as you can.

For example, say the minimum payment on your car loan is $50 a month. Paying even $60 a month toward this loan can help you pay it off sooner and cut down on the amount you pay in finance charges over time. The more you can pay above the minimum, the better.



Transfer credit card balances with high annual percentage rates. If you have a credit card for which you are paying a high annual percentage rate (APR), it might be a good idea to look into transferring this balance to a credit card that offers a lower APR or no APR for a certain amount of time. This way, your entire payment will be applied to your balance, not interest.

Read the fine print before transferring a balance. Most cards charge a transfer fee (3% of the balance, for example) and only offer 0% APR for a limited amount of time (12 or 18 months, for example). Make sure you understand the terms of your new agreement and shop around for the best option before transferring your balance.



Calculate the amount of debt on each credit card. If you have multiple credit cards, compare the amount of debt you have on each one. You can use this information in two different ways:

Some people believe paying off the credit card with the smallest balance first is best. The idea here is that getting the smaller amount of debt paid off will motivate you and allow you to focus on your remaining debt.

Alternatively, some people believe you should focus on paying off the largest balance because you will be paying the most in interest on this balance. To do this, you would try to make more than the minimum payment on this balance, while paying only the minimum on your smaller balance.

If possible, the best solution is to pay more than the minimum simultaneously on each balance.



Dedicate excess funds toward paying off debt. Once you are able to follow your monthly budget, dedicate any extra funds you have at the end of the month toward paying down your debt. It can be tempting to use this money to treat yourself to a fancy dinner or a new TV, but remember your long-term goals before doing this. In the long run, paying down debt will serve you better than treating yourself to something unnecessary.



Consolidate your debt. If you have multiple credit card accounts, student loans, a mortgage, a car loan, or any combination of these debts, consolidating them into one payment may help you manage them more easily. Typically, when you consolidate debt, you’ll get a debt consolidation loan. These loans usually have a lower interest rate and require lower monthly payments.

While consolidating your debt can make it easier to manage, it may also increase the amount you’ll pay in the long run because it extends your payments over a longer period of time.

If your credit score is not good, you may need a co-signer to be able to get a debt consolidation loan.

You can also consolidate your credit card debt by transferring all of your balances to a 0% APR credit card. If you think you can pay off your debt within 12 to 18 months, this might be a good option. However, if you think it will take you significantly longer to pay it off, this might not be a good option because the 0% APR is usually only good for 12 to 18 months.



Refinance your loans. Refinancing is generally a good option if your financial situation has improved since taking out your loan. Similar to consolidating your debt, refinancing your loans also consolidates your debts and may allow you to make lower monthly payments on your loans. Refinancing might also allow you to shorten the term of your loan to pay off your debts more quickly. In addition, depending on your financial situation, you may also be eligible for a lower interest rate.





Choose a student loan repayment plan. If you can afford it, the standard repayment plan is your best option for repaying federal loans. A standard plan requires you to pay the same amount every month over a ten year period. If you can’t afford the payments on a standard plan, however, the government offers two alternative categories of plans—income-driven and basic.

Income-driven repayment plans extend the terms of your loan to 20 or 25 years and require you to pay a certain percentage of your income toward your loan each month, rather than a fixed monthly payment. In addition, any amount still owed at the end of your loan term is forgiven.

Basic plans include standard, graduated, and extended repayment options. Standard is the best option if you can afford it, but graduated or extended plans may be right in some situations. Graduated plans start you off with low payments and gradually increase them over time. This plan can be good if you expect to make more money over the years. Extended plans extend the terms of your loan to 25 years, allowing you to make smaller payments each month, but pay more in interest over time.











Saving for Emergencies and Retirement.



Set up automatic deposits. It can be tough to commit to putting money into your savings account every month, but it is important to do so to ensure you have enough money for emergencies and for your future. If possible, make automatic payments into a saving account each month.

For example, set your bank account so it automatically transfers $50 from your checking account to savings account at least once a month.

Or, if your paycheck gets deposited directly into your account, you can usually set it up so that a certain portion (either a dollar amount or a percentage) is deposited straight into your savings account. Most professionals recommend putting 10 to 20 percent of your income towards savings each month.



Contribute to a retirement savings plan. You should start saving for retirement as soon as possible to ensure you’ll have enough money to live comfortably when you are done working. The amount you need to contribute to this savings account monthly depends on a number of different factors, like when you start saving, how much you are starting with, and whether or not you’re going to receive any kind of employer contribution.

Many employers offer a 401k, or a retirement savings plan, of some kind to their employees. A lot of companies will also match a percentage of the employee’s contributions into this account over time. If your employer offers a plan of this sort, start contributing to it as soon as you can, even if it is just a small amount.

If you are self-employed or your employer does not offer any kind of retirement savings plan, you can set up your own plan through investment websites or many banks.

Consult a financial advisor to figure out how much you should be putting away for retirement to reach your goals.[19]



Build an emergency fund. In addition to saving for retirement, you also need to save for emergencies, like losing a job, costly car repairs, or unexpected medical expenses. You can use your bank’s savings account for this emergency fund.

Financial professionals recommend you have enough in your savings account to cover a month and a half of living expenses for each person you claim as a dependent. For example, if you are married with one child, you should have enough to cover four and a half months of living expenses.











Investing for Beginners.



Invest in a Target Date Fund (TDF). Figuring out where to invest your money is one of the hardest parts of personal finance basics. Essentially, you want to invest in a variety of stocks, bonds, and treasuries—but which ones? Target Date Funds make this a little easier for you. A TDF is basically a hands-off retirement account. You enter the age you want to retire and the TDF will automatically spread the money you put into this account across a wide variety of stocks, bonds, and treasuries.

Some of the recommended companies through which to do this are Vanguard, Fidelity, and T. Rowe Price.



Diversify your investments. If you choose a more hands-on approach to investing, it is important to diversify your portfolio to reduce risk. Diversifying means that you choose a variety of stocks, bonds, and treasuries in which to invest. You should make sure your investments are spread over a number of different companies and industries. This way, if one company or industry suffers a financial downturn, you will only lose a portion of your investment, not the whole thing.



Invest in your 401k. As mentioned above, investing in a 401k provided by your company is a good idea. There are a couple really good things about this option. First of all, most of the time, the money you put into a 401k is deferred on your taxes until you take it out of the account. Some 401ks are taxed before investing, however, so check with your employer to find out which one you have. Second, your employer will often match the amount of money in your 401k (up to a certain amount) so you are, essentially, getting free money just for investing.

You should invest in a company match 401k even if you are in debt. The return you receive on this type of investing is often more than what your debt is.

The amount of money your company will match often depends how much you invest in your 401k. Usually, you have to hit certain investment thresholds, which will then determine the percentage your company will match.



Invest in a Roth IRA. Another investment opportunity offered by many employers is a Roth IRA. In a Roth IRA, you pay taxes up front on your investment. Investing in a Roth IRA is an especially good idea for young people with low incomes, considering the tax rate will likely increase in their lifetime. This type of investment can be very helpful because it will provide you with a pot of money for your retirement that won’t shrink due to taxes.]















Understanding Why to Insure Your Investments.



Get property insurance. You should invest in property insurance to protect your home, which is often one of your biggest assets. Property insurance is actually required if you have a mortgage. This type of insurance will protect you from having to pay out-of-pocket for any major unforeseen home repairs.

If you rent, it is just as important to invest in renter’s insurance. Your belongings can add up to a significant investment and getting renter’s insurance will help protect you in the event of a burglary, fire, flood, or other disaster.



Buy life insurance. Getting life insurance is especially important if you have a family or are married. Life insurance makes sure your income (or at least part of it) is supplemented in the event that you pass away. This is important because your family could face very tough financial situations if they are unable to make up for the portion of income you brought to the table.



Get health insurance. Health insurance premiums can be a small price to pay if you find yourself sick or seriously injured. Medical bills alone can put you in serious debt if you don’t have some sort of insurance policy. In addition, you’ll likely miss a significant amount of work if you are seriously injured, leaving you no way to pay these bills.

Many employers offer health insurance to their employees at a discounted rate. Usually only full-time employees are eligible to receive health insurance through the company, but some companies may offer it to part-time employees as well.

Buying health insurance independently, without the help of an employer, can be expensive. However, it is worth investing in to make sure you are not crippled by debt in the event you become sick or injured.[28]



Buy automobile insurance. Finally, you should invest in automobile insurance. In fact, it is required of anyone who owns a car in the United States. Auto insurance helps cover the cost to repair your car after an accident and medical bills for you and others involved. A major car accident can put you in debt from car repairs and time off work if you’re injured. It is also possible your assets can be seized to help pay for the other driver’s medical bills if the accident is your fault. Having automobile insurance can help diffuse some of these costs and help keep you out of debt.















Working with a Financial Planner.



Start now. One of the most important things you can do for your personal finances is to start thinking about them and working on them early. It may seem like you have plenty of time to save for retirement, but you can actually lose a lot of money in interest if you wait too long. Make financial planning a regular part of your life—like going to the doctor—and get started as soon as possible.

Get your significant other involved. If you are planning a future together, make sure to include your significant other in your planning. Talking to your partner and including them in the process will ensure you are both on the same page with your spending and saving habits and allow you to develop a plan that meets both of your needs.



Be proactive. Some people assume that everything will work out in the long-run and ignore negative cues about their finances. If you do this, however, you could set yourself up for a major loss. Instead, think about how negative financial situations, like severe drops in the stock market, might affect your financial security and plan alternative options.



Plan out the details. Many people see saving for retirement as a race to reach a certain amount of savings before the date they retire. This approach can be misleading, however. Instead, think about the things you’ll need to pay for, like housing, healthcare, eldercare, hobbies, transportation, and so on. Do your best to figure out how much these products and services will cost you and how you’ll finance them.





Tips.

Figuring out how to handle your personal finances can be very confusing whether you’re a beginner or not. It is a good idea to consult a financial planner to help you decide how to best handle your money.


03.27


How to Calculate Compound Interest.

Compound interest is distinct from simple interest in that interest is earned both on the original investment (the principal) and the interest accumulated so far, rather than simply on the principal. Because of this, accounts with compound interest grow faster than those with simple interest. Additionally, the value will grow even faster if the interest is compounded multiple times per year. Compound interest is offered on a variety of investment products and also charged on certain types of loans, like credit card debt. Calculating how much an amount will grow under compound interest is simple with the right equations.

Part 1 Finding Annual Compound Interest.
1. Define annual compounding. The interest rate stated on your investment prospectus or loan agreement is an annual rate. If your car loan, for example, is a 6% loan, you pay 6% interest each year. Compounding once at the end of the year is the easiest calculation for compounding interest.
A debt may compound interest annually, monthly or even daily.
The more frequently your debt compounds, the faster you will accumulate interest.
You can look at compound interest from the investor or the debtor’s point of view. Frequent compounding means that the investor’s interest earnings will increase at a faster rate. It also means that the debtor will owe more interest while the debt is outstanding.
For example, a savings account may be compounded annually, while a pay-day loan can be compounded monthly or even weekly.
2. Calculate interest compounding annually for year one. Assume that you own a $1,000, 6% savings bond issued by the US Treasury. Treasury savings bonds pay out interest each year based on their interest rate and current value.
Interest paid in year 1 would be $60 ($1,000 multiplied by 6% = $60).
To calculate interest for year 2, you need to add the original principal amount to all interest earned to date. In this case, the principal for year 2 would be ($1,000 + $60 = $1,060). The value of the bond is now $1,060 and the interest payment will be calculated from this value.
3. Compute interest compounding for later years. To see the bigger impact of compound interest, compute interest for later years. As you move from year to year, the principal amount continues to grow.
Multiply the year 2 principal amount by the bond’s interest rate. ($1,060 X 6% = $63.60). The interest earned is higher by $3.60 ($63.60 - $60.00). That’s because the principal amount increased from $1,000 to $1,060.
For year 3, the principal amount is ($1,060 + $63.60 = $1,123.60). The interest earned in year 3 is $67.42. That amount is added to the principal balance for the year 4 calculation.
The longer a debt is outstanding, the bigger the impact of compounding interest. Outstanding means that the debt is still owed by the debtor.
Without compounding, the year 2 interest would simply be ($1,000 X 6% = $60). In fact, every year’s interest earned would be $60 if you did earn compound interest. This is known as simple interest.
4. Create an excel document to compute compound interest. It can be handy to visualize compound interest by creating a simple model in excel that shows the growth of your investment. Start by opening a document and labeling the top cell in columns A, B, and C "Year," "Value," and "Interest Earned," respectively.
Enter the years (0-5) in cells A2 to A7.
Enter your principal in cell B2. For example, imagine you are started with $1,000. Input 1000.
In cell B3, type "=B2*1.06" and press enter. This means that your interest is being compounded annually at 6% (0.06). Click on the lower right corner of cell B3 and drag the formula down to cell B7. The numbers will fill in appropriately.
Place a 0 in cell C2. In cell C3, type "=B3-B$2" and press enter. This should give you the difference between the values in cell B3 and B2, which represents the interest earned. Click on the lower right corner of cell C3 and drag the formula down to cell C7. The values will fill themselves in.
Continue this process to replicate the process for as many years as you want to track. You can also easily change values for principal and interest rate by altering the formulas used and cell contents.

Part 2 Calculating Compound Interest on Investments.
1. Learn the compound interest formula. The compound interest formula solves for the future value of the investment after set number of years. The formula itself is as follows: {\displaystyle FV=P(1+{\frac {i}{c}})^{n*c}}FV=P(1+{\frac  {i}{c}})^{{n*c}} The variables within the equation are defined as follows:
"FV" is the future value. This is the result of the calculation.
"P" is your principal.
"i" represents the annual interest rate.
"c" represents the compounding frequency (how many times the interest compounds each year).
"n" represents the number of years being measured.
2. Gather variables the compound interest formula. If interest compounds more often than annually, it is difficult to calculate the formula manually. You can use a compound interest formula for any calculation. To use the formula, you need to gather the following information.
Identify the principal of the investment. This is the original amount of your investment. This could be how much you deposited into the account or the original cost of the bond. For example, imagine your principal in an investment account is $5,000.
Locate the interest rate for the debt. The interest rate should be an annual amount, stated as a percentage of the principal. For example, a 3.45% interest rate on the $5,000 principal value.
In the calculation, the interest rate will have to be input as decimal. Convert it by dividing the interest rate by 100. In this example, this would be 3.45%/100 = 0.0345.
You also need to know how often the debt compounds. Typically, interest compounds annually, monthly or daily. For example, imagine that it compounds monthly. This means your compounding frequency ("c") would be input as 12.
Determine the length of time you want to measure. This could be a goal year for growth, like 5 or 10 years, or this maturity of a bond. The maturity date of a bond is the date that the principal amount of the debt is to be repaid. For the example, we use 2 years, so input 2.
3. Use the formula. Input your variables in the right places. Check again to make sure that you are inputting them correctly. Specifically, make sure that your interest rate is in decimal form and that you have used the right number for "c" (compounding frequency).
The example investment would be input as follows: {\displaystyle FV=\$5000(1+{\frac {0.0345}{12}})^{2*12}}FV=\$5000(1+{\frac  {0.0345}{12}})^{{2*12}}
Compute the exponent portion and the portion of the formula in parenthesis separately. This is a math concept called order of operations. You can learn more about the concept using this link: Apply the Order of Operations.
4. Finish the math computations in the formula. Simplify the problem by solving for the parts of the equation in parenthesis first, beginning with the fraction.
Divide the fraction within parentheses first. The result should be: {\displaystyle FV=\$5000(1+0.00288)^{2*12}}FV=\$5000(1+0.00288)^{{2*12}}
Add the numbers within parentheses. The result should be: {\displaystyle FV=\$5000(1.00288)^{2*12}}FV=\$5000(1.00288)^{{2*12}}
Solve the multiplication within the exponent (the last part above the closing parenthesis). The result should look like this: {\displaystyle FV=\$5000(1.00288)^{24}}FV=\$5000(1.00288)^{{24}}
Raise the number within the parentheses to the power of the exponent. This can be done on a calculator by entering the value in parentheses (1.00288 in the example) first, pressing the {\displaystyle x^{y}}x^{y} button, then entering the exponent (24 in this case) and pressing enter. The result in the example is {\displaystyle FV=\$5000(1.0715)}FV=\$5000(1.0715)
Finally, multiply the principal by the number in parentheses. The result in the example is $5,000*1.0715, or $5,357.50. This is the value of the account at the end of the two years.
5. Subtract the principal from your answer. This will give you the amount of interest earned.
Subtract the principal of $5,000 from the future value of $5357.50 to get $5,375.50-$5,000, or $357.50
You will earn $357.50 in interest over the two years.

Part 3 Calculating Compound Interest With Regular Payments.
1. Learn the formula. Compounding interest accounts can increase even faster if you make regular contributions to them, such as adding a monthly amount to a savings account. The formula is longer than that used to calculate compound interest without regular payments, but follows the same principles. The formula is as follows: {\displaystyle FV=P(1+{\frac {i}{c}})^{n*c}+{\frac {R((1+{\frac {i}{c}})^{n*c}-1)}{\frac {i}{c}}}}FV=P(1+{\frac  {i}{c}})^{{n*c}}+{\frac  {R((1+{\frac  {i}{c}})^{{n*c}}-1)}{{\frac  {i}{c}}}}[7]The variables within the equation are also the same as the previous equation, with one addition.
"P" is the principal.
"i" is the annual interest rate.
"c" is the compounding frequency and represents how many times the interest is compounded each year.
"n" is the number of years.
"R" is the amount of the monthly contribution.
2. Compile the necessary variables. To compute the future value of this type of account, you will need the principal (or present value) of the account, the annual interest rate, the compounding frequency, the number of years being measured, and the amount of your monthly contribution. This information should be in your investment agreement.
Be sure to convert the annual interest rate into a decimal. Do this by dividing the rate by 100. For example, using the above 3.45% interest rate, we would divide 3.45 by 100 to get 0.0345.
For compounding frequency, simply use the number of times per year that the interest compounds. This means annually is 1, monthly is 12, and daily is 365 (don't worry about leap years).
3. Input your variables. Continuing with the example from above, imagine that you decide to also contribute $100 per month to your account. This account, with a principal value of $5,000, compounds monthly and earns 3.45% annual interest. We will measure the growth of the account over two years.
The completed formula using this information is as follows: {\displaystyle FV=\$5,000(1+{\frac {0.0345}{12}})^{2*12}+{\frac {\$100((1+{\frac {0.0345}{12}})^{2*12}-1)}{\frac {0.0345}{12}}}}FV=\$5,000(1+{\frac  {0.0345}{12}})^{{2*12}}+{\frac  {\$100((1+{\frac  {0.0345}{12}})^{{2*12}}-1)}{{\frac  {0.0345}{12}}}}
4. Solve the equation. Again, remember to use the proper order of operations to do so. This means that you start by calculating the values inside of parentheses.
Solve for the fractions with parentheses first. This means dividing "i" by "c" in three places, all for the same result of 0.00288. The equation now looks like this: {\displaystyle FV=\$5,000(1+0.00288)^{2*12}+{\frac {\$100((1+0.00288)^{2*12}-1)}{0.00288}}}FV=\$5,000(1+0.00288)^{{2*12}}+{\frac  {\$100((1+0.00288)^{{2*12}}-1)}{0.00288}}
Solve the addition within the parentheses. This means adding the 1 to the result from the last part. This gives: {\displaystyle FV=\$5,000(1.00288)^{2*12}+{\frac {\$100((1.00288)^{2*12}-1)}{0.00288}}}FV=\$5,000(1.00288)^{{2*12}}+{\frac  {\$100((1.00288)^{{2*12}}-1)}{0.00288}}
Solve the multiplication within the exponents. This means multiplying the two numbers that are smaller and above the closing parentheses. In the example, this is 2*12 for a result of 24. This gives: {\displaystyle FV=\$5,000(1.00288)^{24}+{\frac {\$100((1.00288)^{24}-1)}{0.00288}}}FV=\$5,000(1.00288)^{{24}}+{\frac  {\$100((1.00288)^{{24}}-1)}{0.00288}}
Solve the exponents. This means raising the amount within parentheses to the result of the last step. On a calculator, this is done by entering the value in parentheses (1.00288 in the example), pressing the {\displaystyle x^{y}}x^{y} key, and then entering the exponent value (which is 24 here). This gives: {\displaystyle FV=\$5,000(1.0715)+{\frac {\$100(1.0715-1)}{0.00288}}}FV=\$5,000(1.0715)+{\frac  {\$100(1.0715-1)}{0.00288}}
Subtract. Subtract the one from the result of the last step in the right part of the equation (here 1.0715 minus 1). This gives: {\displaystyle FV=\$5,000(1.0715)+{\frac {\$100(0.0715)}{0.00288}}}FV=\$5,000(1.0715)+{\frac  {\$100(0.0715)}{0.00288}}
Multiply. This means multiplying the principal by the number is the first set of parentheses and the monthly contribution by the same number in parentheses. This gives: {\displaystyle FV=\$5,357.50+{\frac {\$7.15}{0.00288}}}FV=\$5,357.50+{\frac  {\$7.15}{0.00288}}
Divide the fraction. This gives {\displaystyle FV=\$5,357.50+\$2,482.64}FV=\$5,357.50+\$2,482.64
Add. Finally, add the two number to get the future value of the account. This gives $5,357.50 + $2,482.64, or $7,840.14. This is the value of the account after the two years.
5. Subtract the principal and payments. To find the interest earned, you have to subtract the amount of money you put into the account. This means adding the principal, $5,000, to the total value of contributions made, which is 24 contributions (2 years* 12 months/year) times the $100 you put in each month for a total of $2,400. The total is $5,000 plus $2,400, or $7,400. Subtracting $7,400 from the future value of $7,840.14, you get the amount of interest earned, which is $440.14.
6. Extend your calculation. To really see the benefit of compound interest, imagine that you continue adding money monthly to the same account for twenty years instead of two. In this case, your future value would be about $45,000, even though you will have only contributed $29,000, meaning that you will have earned $16,000 in interest.

FAQ.
Question : What does "to the power of" mean?
Answer : "To the power of" refers to a particular numerical exponent. It is a multiplication in which a number appears as a factor that many times. For example, 2 to the power of 1 equals 2. 2 to the power of 2 equals 2x2, or 4, and 2 to the power of 3 is 2 x 2 x 2, or 8.
Question : How do I find the compound interest on a 29,870 loan at 6% interest?
Answer : First take out the amount by the formulae: principle(1+ r/100) to the power n (number of years), then take out the ci by subtracting the principle from the amount.
Question : What do I type on a calculator to find compound interest?
Answer : Compound interest can be calculated in several ways. The most common is to say that A=Pe^(rt) where P is the initial amount, "e" is a constant around 2.71, "r" is the interest rate (i.e. 7% would be entered in as 0.07), "t" is the duration in which the interest is being calculated in years and "A" is the final amount.
Question : How do I know if it's better to owe interest on something or to pay a lump sum at no interest?
Answer : Cost/value analysis. Calculate the total you'll pay under both methods and find the difference. Then compare that difference to the value of buying now (with a loan) versus later (lump sum).
Question : How do I find the future value and the compound interest if £4000 is invested for 5 years at 42% p.a?
Answer : Principal=$4000, n=5, R=42%,0.42. The formula: FV=PV(1+r)r aise power n and substitute the value.
Question : How do I calculate principal in compound interest?
Answer : Principal = fv = p(1 + i/c)ⁿc. Formula for principal in compound interest (1 + R/100), where R = rate.

Tips.

You can also calculate compound interest easily using an online compound interest calculator. The US Government hosts a good one at https://www.investor.gov/tools/calculators/compound-interest-calculator.
A quick rule of thumb to find compound interest is the "rule of 72." Start by dividing 72 by the amount of the interest your are earning, for example 4%. In this case, this would be 72/4, or 18. This result, 18, is roughly the number of years it will take for your investment to double at the current interest rate. Keep in mind that the rule of 72 is just a quick approximation, not an exact result.[8]
You can also use these calculations to perform "what-if" calculations that can tell you how much you will earn with a given interest rate, principal, compounding frequency, or number of years.
05.21

How to Split Expenses As a Couple.


Splitting expenses as a couple is an important aspect of having a stable relationship, especially if you’re living together. There are several ways to split expenses. One way is to split everything right down the middle, so each person pays half. The other way is for each person to pay for what they can afford. The final way is for one person to pay all or most of the expenses. If one of you works little or not at all, that person should make up the difference by contributing energy toward domestic tasks. Finally, ensure you’re covering yourself by keeping separate bank accounts and not cosigning loans with your partner.



Method 1 Choosing the Right Method.

1. Determine what expenses qualify as shared. Sometimes it is easy to identify a shared expense. For instance, heating, water, and electricity are house-wide expenses and you will both, presumably, enjoy their use in approximately equal amounts. But it might be harder to justify sharing other expenses. If you have TV service at your home, for instance, but only one of you watches TV, it makes little sense to split that particular expense.

Talk to your partner about which expenditures they believe should be considered shared and which should be considered individual expenses.

2. Split expenses evenly. By splitting every expense evenly, you and your partner have a form of equality in the relationship. This is probably the most logical way to split expenses for couples who have equal or roughly equal incomes.

There are many ways to split expenses 50/50. You might choose to split each expense as it comes in. Alternately, you might reconcile receipts at the end of each month and pay your partner whatever is “owed.” Talk to your partner about which method works best for you.

You don’t need to split everything perfectly evenly. Creating a spreadsheet to track expenses, or otherwise accounting for every penny spent between you can reduce your relationship to a purely economic exchange that takes the romance out of it. Even if you split household bills, it’s still okay to treat your significant other to dinner or a date when you go out.

For instance, you might take turns paying for dinner. Even if your dinners don’t total the exact same amount each time you go out to eat, over time, you’ll each probably end paying about the same amount. This qualifies as a form of splitting costs evenly.

3. Split your expenses according to income. This expense-splitting technique calls for the person with the higher income paying for a larger share of the household expenses. In other words, equality is achieved through each person in the relationship paying expenses according to their ability.

For example, suppose you earn $3,000 per month and your partner earns $2,000 each month. In this case, you should pay for 60% of the expenses, since your income is 60% of the total household income (the figure you get when you combine the incomes of you and your partner).

Talk carefully with your partner to make sure that there are no hidden issues before going forward with this method. In some cases, your partner may feel as though they are contributing too much or too little if this method is used.

4. Share expenses unevenly. In this method, one person will pay for the majority of household expenses. This is the natural choice to make when one person in the relationship has way more income than the other person. However, if both you and your partner make a lot of money, either of you could choose to take on an expense-splitting arrangement like this.

A fair arrangement doesn’t necessarily need to divide all expenses perfectly. For instance, one of you could take the internet bill while the other takes the power bill. Divide things up according to whichever scheme suits your situation.

5. Be willing to trade time and money. If you work and your partner doesn’t or if your partner works but you do not, there are other ways you can come to a fair arrangement by thinking about the work (as well as the money) it takes to run a household. Domestic work – cleaning, cooking, and doing the laundry – is crucial to keeping a household going. It makes little sense for one person to both complete all these tasks and also provide financial stability for you as a couple.

Think about splitting the total amount of work that each of you do as a couple rather than thinking of splitting expenses along purely financial lines.



Method 2 Splitting Food Expenses.

1. Figure out your food budget. Your food budget is the total you spend on food over a given period. To get an accurate picture of how much you spend on food, track your expenses over a certain period of time. Tracking over a month is a good unit of time, since depending on how much you and your partner eat, you might not spend much on food.

Use a shared spreadsheet in Google Doc or another program to track your expenditures. Your document should indicate each item you bought and how much it cost.

Alternatively, try a low-tech route like writing your grocery and dining-out expenses on a piece of lined paper.

Keep your receipts while tracking your food budget.

2. Analyze the budget. Once you’ve figured out your food budget, evaluate the information with your partner. Are you spending too much, too little, or just the right amount? Look for areas where you can cut expenses.

For instance, instead of spending so much on junk food and snacks, try to find healthy alternatives like fruit or veggies and hummus.

Instead of eating out so much, try eating at home more often. Make cooking together a couple's activity.

Eliminate or reduce your alcohol consumption for more savings.

3. Decide how to split the food expenditures. You can use an income-based method to choose how to split the food expenses, or split the food expenses according to consumption patterns. Whatever method you choose, ensure you and your partner agree on how much money you should be spending on food, and ensure you both set aside money each month for your grocery budget.

Let go of small differences in food consumption. Even if your partner eats more than you, constantly analyzing how much money each person owes for food can put a strain on the relationship.



Method 3 Being Smart About Shared Finances.

1. Plan for emergencies. Both you and your partner should have money saved in the event that one or both of you needs to pay for surgery, a new vehicle, or another large expense. Try to set aside at least 25% of your monthly income for savings.

You should have at least six months’ worth of income saved to cover periods of potential unemployment.

Be sure to set beneficiaries on your retirement and insurance plans, too.

If you separate from your partner, don’t forget to change your beneficiary list.

2. Have regular financial checkups. Every month or two, you and your partner should have a conversation about where you’re both at financially. Are you still both increasing your savings? Do you have enough saved to cover an emergency? Are you both still comfortable with the way expenses are being shared? Talk to your partner about these and other related issues.

Make budgeting and financial planning an activity you do together. This can be more successful or even exciting if you are both working towards a common goal, such as a vacation or purchasing a home.

Always be honest about your finances. If you are struggling financially, you should admit to your partner that you’re having money problems. That way they can help you out by either loaning you money, helping you find another job, or taking other action that can help.

Encourage your partner to be honest with you about their spending habits and their happiness with your current financial arrangement. If your partner lies about money matters, you should seriously consider ending the relationship.

Don’t let your partner push you into a purchase you can’t really afford. For instance, if you can’t afford a new car but your partner really wants you to have one, stand firm and insist that you will not make such a purchase. If they love you, they will respect your decision.

3. Do not move in with your significant other for financial reasons. Living with someone else and sharing expenses does save money, but if you make the decision to shack up based on the potential economic benefit, your relationship will be on an unstable foundation. Only move in together if you’re truly in love with the person and ready to be in close proximity to them night and day. This will make splitting finances just one part of your relationship, and not its entire basis.

4. Avoid borrowing money. Not only is it annoying for your partner, but it might make them suspicious of your financial health and question your intentions. It’s okay to borrow money in an emergency situation, but don’t make a regular habit of it.

If your partner regularly asks to borrow money, you should inquire as to why they constantly need money. They may have lost their job or have unpaid debts you don’t know about.

5. Avoid sharing debts. Cosigning a loan for your partner is never a good idea. The last thing you want to do is end up saddled with debt that you did not personally incur. Only make a large investment with your partner like a house or car if you are in a stable, long-term relationship.

You should ask your partner about any debts or liabilities that they may hold. Be honest about your own debt as well. Keeping these secret can ruin a relationship when the debt is discovered by the other partner.

Always put both your names on the lease, mortgage, or loan. This will allow you some degree of protection in the event you and your partner separate.

For mortgages, consult a real-estate attorney to help you figure out the best way to negotiate your local real estate laws as they relate to your relationship. A married couple has different options for taking out a home loan than an unmarried couple.

For auto loans, too, you (and your partner) should talk to a financial officer at your local bank or credit union. There are many variables that could impact whether you and your partner decide to take out an individual loan or cosign the loan. Seek advice relevant to your living situation in order to get the lowest interest rates and avoid shared debt.

6. Do not share assets. Assets are valuable possessions or investments. Common assets include bank accounts as well as big-ticket items. Typical material assets include houses, cars, and boats. These items should never be purchased using both your names. Otherwise, you might end up wrangling over ownership in the event you separate.

Bank accounts, likewise, should never be shared between you and your partner. These accounts can be a source of tension should one partner decide to use the money for themselves.

If you want to set up a shared account with your partner – for instance, an account either of you can use to pay bills – keep it completely separate from your personal account. Put a small amount of money in it each month along with your partner, and use it only to pay the bills you intended it for.


04.16


How to Finance Nursing Home Care.

As more and more Americans require nursing home care, their families are struggling to find ways to pay for, or at least reduce, the immense cost of care. In 2012, the average cost of a private room was over $90,000 a year and a semi-private room cost $81,000 a year. For most people, paying for a loved one’s nursing home care presents an almost insurmountable financial obstacle. However, there are ways to finance and reduce the cost of a nursing home so that a loved one can get the type of long-term care that they require.

Method 1 Reducing Costs and Using Personal Assets.

1. Consider in-home care. Long-term nursing home care costs between $6,000 and 9,000 a month and many people cannot afford this option. To save money, you may want to consider in-home care, which costs approximately $21 an hour for a care assistant. This option is not only less expensive but it allows your elderly or disabled family member to reside in his or her home for as long as possible.

2. Negotiate long-term care costs. If you are paying out-of-pocket for long-term nursing care, you should negotiate the overall cost with the nursing home. While some nursing homes may refuse to negotiate, others would prefer to take a lower private care rate because it still pays more than state-sponsored Medicaid programs.

3. Relocate your loved one. The cost of nursing home care varies greatly from state to state and even from locality to locality. If your loved one has family members who live in different states, you should determine which state has the lowest cost for nursing home care. Nursing home care in Texas, Utah and Alabama can cost less than half of nursing home care in states in the Northeast.

4. Qualify for a Reverse Mortgage. A reverse mortgage is a loan that a homeowner gets from a bank against the value of their home. The loan converts the home's equity into cash and the homeowner receives either a cash sum, regular payments, or a line of credit equal to the equity in the home. After the owner's death, the bank may foreclose on the home (get ownership without further liability to the home owner) or members of the estate may sell the home and pay off the loan.

In order to qualify for a reverse mortgage, each homeowner must be at least 62 years old and live in the home where the reverse mortgage was taken.

A reverse mortgage may be a good solution if you are in good health. You can use the proceeds from the reverse mortgage to pay for long-term care insurance or to make your home more accessible so that you can remain in the house as long as possible.

If you are in need of care but do not require nursing home care yet, you can use a reverse mortgage to pay for in-home caregiver services. This provides seniors with the ability to stay in their home for a fraction of the cost of a nursing home.

If you are a married couple and one of you need nursing home care, a reverse mortgage can pay for nursing home care and allow the healthy spouse to remain in the family home. If the spouse needing care dies, the surviving spouse can stay in the home so long as they can continue to pay for property taxes and insurance.

Method 2 Qualifying for Medicaid.

1. Determine whether you qualify for Medicaid. Medicaid is a state and federal government program that assists low-income individuals with a variety of medical care, including nursing home care. You can only qualify for Medicaid if you fall below the monthly income and asset limits set by your state.

You can determine whether you meet the eligibility requirements for your state at: https://www.healthcare.gov/medicaid-chip/getting-medicaid-chip/

If you qualify for Medicaid, you can apply online at https://www.healthcare.gov/medicaid-chip/getting-medicaid-chip/ or check the website for the address of your state Medicaid office and apply in person.

2. Qualify for Medicaid. If your assets are currently too high to qualify for Medicaid and you want to protect your personal assets from nursing home expenses, you can consider legally reducing your assets in order to qualify for Medicaid.

Before attempting to reduce or transfer your assets, you should speak with an elder law attorney. Medicaid has very strict rules about what assets can be transferred and what purchases are allowable to reduce your income. If you improperly reduce your assets, Medicaid can penalize you for months to years and prohibit your qualification for the program.

The National Association of Elder Law Attorneys has information about elder law specialists on its website at: https://www.naela.org. The American Bar Association also provides attorney referral information at: http://apps.americanbar.org/legalservices/findlegalhelp/home.cfm.

3. Reduce your assets. In order to qualify for Medicaid, you can reduce your assets by.

Paying off debt, such as a mortgage, student loans or credit cards.

Paying for in-home medical care, Paying for necessary home repairs, such as a new roof or furnace.

Transfer funds to your spouse for his or her benefit, Transfer funds or set up a trust for your blind or disabled child or for a disabled person under the age of 65.

4. Set up a Medicaid Asset Trust. With a Medicaid Asset Trust, you transfer all of your assets into a trust and give up control over those assets. Any funds placed in the trust do not count towards the Medicaid asset limits. However, if you transfer funds into the trust within 5 years of applying for Medicaid, you may be subject to Medicaid’s “lookback provision.” Under this provision, Medicaid may penalize any person that it determines conducted a non-exempt transfer under the Medicaid regulations. If you are penalized, you may not be able to qualify for Medicaid for months or even years.

Method 3 Using Insurance Options.

1. Purchase long-term health insurance. Unlike regular health insurance, long-term health insurance is designed to pay for long-term care, which may include nursing home care, in-home care or medical equipment. When evaluating long-term health insurance polices, you should carefully select a policy that covers nursing home care if you reasonably believe that you will not have someone to care for you at home should you fall ill and become unable to care for yourself.

It is best to acquire long-term health insurance when you are younger and in good health. As you get older, long-term health insurance becomes much more expensive and many seniors are either unable to afford or qualify for a policy.

2. Cash in your life insurance. Another way to pay for nursing home care is to cash in your whole life insurance policy. Certain policies allow policyholders to cash in their insurance policy for 50 to 75 percent of the face value of the policy.

Keep in mind that this is only an option for whole life policies, not term life policies where there is no cash value.

Depending on your individual life insurance policy, there are two ways that you can cash in your policy: accelerated benefit or life settlement.

If you qualify for an accelerated benefit, the insurance company will pay between 60 and 80 percent of the face value of the policy. Under certain policies, you may have to be suffering from a terminal illness in order to qualify for an accelerated benefit.

A life settlement is a policy payout that you negotiate with an outside company not the insurance company that issued the policy. These settlement companies look at the value of your policy, your age, and your health and pay you between 40 and 75 percent of the face value of the policy. Depending on the health and age of an individual, it may be possible to sell some term policies.

Before negotiating a life settlement, you should speak with an elder law attorney as there may be tax and Medicaid implications from receiving the proceeds of the policy through a settlement company.

3. Check Medicare benefits. While Medicare does not pay the cost of long-term nursing home care, you may qualify for a certain portion of the stay if you were transferred to a nursing home within several days of a hospital stay and you require skilled nursing or rehabilitative care. If you go to a Medicare-approved facility, your stay may be covered for up to 100 days.

Medicare will also pay for in-home care for a certain period as well. This coverage may help if you are trying to reduce assets or do not physically require full nursing-home care.

Tips.

Do not try to transfer or reduce assets before speaking with an experienced elder law attorney.

Be wary of advisers who are not attorneys. Throughout the country, there are people and companies who exploit the elderly and their caregivers by inducements of Medicaid qualification.


21.35


How to Finance Nursing Home Care.

As more and more Americans require nursing home care, their families are struggling to find ways to pay for, or at least reduce, the immense cost of care. In 2012, the average cost of a private room was over $90,000 a year and a semi-private room cost $81,000 a year. For most people, paying for a loved one’s nursing home care presents an almost insurmountable financial obstacle. However, there are ways to finance and reduce the cost of a nursing home so that a loved one can get the type of long-term care that they require.

Method 1 Reducing Costs and Using Personal Assets.

1. Consider in-home care. Long-term nursing home care costs between $6,000 and 9,000 a month and many people cannot afford this option. To save money, you may want to consider in-home care, which costs approximately $21 an hour for a care assistant. This option is not only less expensive but it allows your elderly or disabled family member to reside in his or her home for as long as possible.

2. Negotiate long-term care costs. If you are paying out-of-pocket for long-term nursing care, you should negotiate the overall cost with the nursing home. While some nursing homes may refuse to negotiate, others would prefer to take a lower private care rate because it still pays more than state-sponsored Medicaid programs.

3. Relocate your loved one. The cost of nursing home care varies greatly from state to state and even from locality to locality. If your loved one has family members who live in different states, you should determine which state has the lowest cost for nursing home care. Nursing home care in Texas, Utah and Alabama can cost less than half of nursing home care in states in the Northeast.

4. Qualify for a Reverse Mortgage. A reverse mortgage is a loan that a homeowner gets from a bank against the value of their home. The loan converts the home's equity into cash and the homeowner receives either a cash sum, regular payments, or a line of credit equal to the equity in the home. After the owner's death, the bank may foreclose on the home (get ownership without further liability to the home owner) or members of the estate may sell the home and pay off the loan.

In order to qualify for a reverse mortgage, each homeowner must be at least 62 years old and live in the home where the reverse mortgage was taken.

A reverse mortgage may be a good solution if you are in good health. You can use the proceeds from the reverse mortgage to pay for long-term care insurance or to make your home more accessible so that you can remain in the house as long as possible.

If you are in need of care but do not require nursing home care yet, you can use a reverse mortgage to pay for in-home caregiver services. This provides seniors with the ability to stay in their home for a fraction of the cost of a nursing home.

If you are a married couple and one of you need nursing home care, a reverse mortgage can pay for nursing home care and allow the healthy spouse to remain in the family home. If the spouse needing care dies, the surviving spouse can stay in the home so long as they can continue to pay for property taxes and insurance.

Method 2 Qualifying for Medicaid.

1. Determine whether you qualify for Medicaid. Medicaid is a state and federal government program that assists low-income individuals with a variety of medical care, including nursing home care. You can only qualify for Medicaid if you fall below the monthly income and asset limits set by your state.

You can determine whether you meet the eligibility requirements for your state at: https://www.healthcare.gov/medicaid-chip/getting-medicaid-chip/

If you qualify for Medicaid, you can apply online at https://www.healthcare.gov/medicaid-chip/getting-medicaid-chip/ or check the website for the address of your state Medicaid office and apply in person.

2. Qualify for Medicaid. If your assets are currently too high to qualify for Medicaid and you want to protect your personal assets from nursing home expenses, you can consider legally reducing your assets in order to qualify for Medicaid.

Before attempting to reduce or transfer your assets, you should speak with an elder law attorney. Medicaid has very strict rules about what assets can be transferred and what purchases are allowable to reduce your income. If you improperly reduce your assets, Medicaid can penalize you for months to years and prohibit your qualification for the program.

The National Association of Elder Law Attorneys has information about elder law specialists on its website at: https://www.naela.org. The American Bar Association also provides attorney referral information at: http://apps.americanbar.org/legalservices/findlegalhelp/home.cfm.

3. Reduce your assets. In order to qualify for Medicaid, you can reduce your assets by:

Paying off debt, such as a mortgage, student loans or credit cards.

Paying for in-home medical care.

Paying for necessary home repairs, such as a new roof or furnace.

Transfer funds to your spouse for his or her benefit.

Transfer funds or set up a trust for your blind or disabled child or for a disabled person under the age of 65.

4. Set up a Medicaid Asset Trust. With a Medicaid Asset Trust, you transfer all of your assets into a trust and give up control over those assets. Any funds placed in the trust do not count towards the Medicaid asset limits. However, if you transfer funds into the trust within 5 years of applying for Medicaid, you may be subject to Medicaid’s “lookback provision.” Under this provision, Medicaid may penalize any person that it determines conducted a non-exempt transfer under the Medicaid regulations. If you are penalized, you may not be able to qualify for Medicaid for months or even years.

Method 3 Using Insurance Options.

1. Purchase long-term health insurance. Unlike regular health insurance, long-term health insurance is designed to pay for long-term care, which may include nursing home care, in-home care or medical equipment. When evaluating long-term health insurance polices, you should carefully select a policy that covers nursing home care if you reasonably believe that you will not have someone to care for you at home should you fall ill and become unable to care for yourself.

It is best to acquire long-term health insurance when you are younger and in good health. As you get older, long-term health insurance becomes much more expensive and many seniors are either unable to afford or qualify for a policy.

2. Cash in your life insurance. Another way to pay for nursing home care is to cash in your whole life insurance policy. Certain policies allow policyholders to cash in their insurance policy for 50 to 75 percent of the face value of the policy.

Keep in mind that this is only an option for whole life policies, not term life policies where there is no cash value.

Depending on your individual life insurance policy, there are two ways that you can cash in your policy: accelerated benefit or life settlement.

If you qualify for an accelerated benefit, the insurance company will pay between 60 and 80 percent of the face value of the policy. Under certain policies, you may have to be suffering from a terminal illness in order to qualify for an accelerated benefit.

A life settlement is a policy payout that you negotiate with an outside company not the insurance company that issued the policy. These settlement companies look at the value of your policy, your age, and your health and pay you between 40 and 75 percent of the face value of the policy. Depending on the health and age of an individual, it may be possible to sell some term policies.

Before negotiating a life settlement, you should speak with an elder law attorney as there may be tax and Medicaid implications from receiving the proceeds of the policy through a settlement company.

3. Check Medicare benefits. While Medicare does not pay the cost of long-term nursing home care, you may qualify for a certain portion of the stay if you were transferred to a nursing home within several days of a hospital stay and you require skilled nursing or rehabilitative care. If you go to a Medicare-approved facility, your stay may be covered for up to 100 days.

Medicare will also pay for in-home care for a certain period as well. This coverage may help if you are trying to reduce assets or do not physically require full nursing-home care.

Question : Should I keep $200,000 available to get into a nicer nursing home before qualifying for Medicaid?
Answer : If you have that kind of money and that is something you are interested in doing, then yes, you can do it.

Tips.

Do not try to transfer or reduce assets before speaking with an experienced elder law attorney.

Be wary of advisers who are not attorneys. Throughout the country, there are people and companies who exploit the elderly and their caregivers by inducements of Medicaid qualification.

This article is not providing legal advice and should not be relied on as legal advice.


21.41

How to Get Immediate Cash for Your Annuity.


An annuity is a type of investment that is usually handled by an insurance company. An investor will invest her money in an annuity fund in exchange for periodic payouts over a predetermined interval (such as for the next ten years) or indefinitely (for the rest of your life). Some annuities provide the option of getting immediate payment. However, if you are in a financial emergency and require immediate cash, you might have to cash out an annuity early. While there may be hefty fees involved, particularly if your annuity is held within a retirement account like an IRA or 401k, it is possible to get immediate cash from your annuity investment.

Method 1 Getting Cash from an Immediate Annuity.
1. Consider carefully whether you need immediate cash. Investments work best when they are allowed to grow over the long term. Withdrawing cash early from an annuity brings with it a risk of fees and will significantly harm the long-term potential of your investment. Consider very carefully whether you are in a true financial emergency before taking steps to sell an annuity, and be sure to use early withdrawal options only as a last resort.
2. Think about other options for immediate cash. Because of the potential penalties of getting cash from an annuity, consider other options for getting cash during a financial emergency. Many of these options come with lower risks and few to no financial penalties. These include:
Take out a short-term, unsecured loan (a loan without collateral) from your bank or a local credit union.
Renting out a room via AirBNB or another website.
Sell unwanted items online.
Take on an additional part-time job or side gig, such as babysitting, dogsitting, or working retail.
Get a Home Equity Loan. These loans will require interest payments, but they might be lower than the penalties you would pay for cashing in an annuity.
3. Determine exactly how much money you need. In some cases, you might be able to receive small, immediate cash payouts from your annuity without too many penalties and fees. However, if you need to cash in your entire annuity, you will likely pay some hefty fines. Therefore, it is important that you know exactly how much cash you need to get through your financial emergency. By only taking out the money you absolutely need, you might be able to be more financially stable in the long run.
4. Determine whether you have an immediate or deferred annuity. An immediate annuity will provide monthly, quarterly, or annual cash payments to the investor immediately after the investment is purchased. A deferred annuity, however, allows the investment to grow for a period of some years before the payouts begin.
If you have an immediate annuity already, you can simply collect your cash installments at the appropriate intervals. Depending on how much cash you require, these installments might be sufficient for your needs.
When payments are made, annuities are taxed on the earning portion of the asset, not a return of principal.
Additionally, an immediate annuity within a retirement account, like a Roth IRA, can provide penalty-free payments to persons under 59.5 years of age.
5. Convert a deferred annuity to an immediate annuity. This option is one that many investors consider as they transition into retirement. They use the deferred annuity to grow their money over the long-term and then convert into an immediate annuity to guarantee an income stream during their retirement. If you convert your deferred annuity to an immediate annuity, you might have the best of both worlds: immediate access to some cash while still allowing your investment portfolio to grow.
Depending on when you purchased your deferred annuity, however, it might be costly for you to pursue the conversion option. Make sure you discuss fees and penalties carefully with your insurance company and your financial advisor before undertaking a conversion.
6. Collect your cash payments without penalty. If you have an immediate annuity, you will receive several small payments each year. This option is a good one for those who are in immediate need of cash (such as those who are on a fixed income). And as long as you only collect the amount specified in your contract, you can do so without paying extra fees.
You will still likely have to pay income tax on a portion or all of the amount you collect.
While immediate annuities provide an immediate cash flow, they generally pay out less total money than deferred annuities, which have more of an opportunity to grow.
7. Determine your surrender period. A surrender period is the period of time after the initial purchase of the annuity where you will be charged hefty fees for cashing out your plan. A surrender period can be anywhere from 5-10 years after purchase, depending on your contract, though it is usually between 6-8 years.
If your surrender period has passed, you might be able to cash out your annuity without paying too many fees.
If your surrender period has not yet passed, you might want to consider the expenses involved before continuing the early withdrawal process.
8. Decide to sell your immediate annuity. Unlike deferred annuities, most immediate annuities do not provide an option for small-sum early withdrawals or partial sales. You will likely have the opportunity, however, to sell the entire immediate annuity for a lump-sum. Again, reserve this option as a last resort given the hassle and fees involved in cashing out your immediate annuity early.
9. Be aware of possible financial penalties. Withdrawing cash from your annuity early can lead to hefty penalties, taxes, and fines. Be sure that you take these penalties into account before making your decision to withdraw your cash.
If your annuity is part of a retirement account and you withdraw your money before you are 59.5 years old, you will have to pay a 10% early withdrawal fee to the federal government.
If you withdraw your money within the first 5-8 years of purchase, you will likely have to pay a "surrender fee" to your insurance company. The exact fee amount depends on your contract. Many surrender fees begin at about a 7% penalty for the first year after purchase and decrease over time from there. However, some companies might charge a fee as high as 20%.
Cash you receive from annuities counts as income. You will likely have to pay income taxes in addition to the early withdrawal fees and surrender fees. The one exception is that payments from an annuity as part of a Roth IRA are not taxable.
10. Research companies that offer cash in exchange for annuity payments. None will give you the full value of your future payments. They might offer anywhere from 60% to 85% of the value of your annuity. Getting 85% of your annuity’s value would be considered a fairly good offer. Since you are legally transferring your rights, you want a company that follows standard procedures and will prepare you for any required court proceedings.
Understand that you are not getting a good deal here because the company you are selling to has to make a profit. Annuity sale prices are reached by discounting a series of future cash flows by some interest rate. Typically, a buyer will use a lower rate than is earned in the annuity to make a profit themselves. This results in a lower sale price for you.
11. Consult your tax attorney or financial advisor. Before agreeing to sell your annuity to a third party, consult a trusted legal or financial expert. They will help you determine your financial liability and help you navigate through the complicated contracts you might have to sign. This will help to ensure that you understand what is happening and that it is done correctly. They might also be able to help guide you to the most reputable companies that purchase annuities.
12. Collect your documents. Documents required for the sale of an annuity include two forms of identification, your initial annuity policy, and an application to sell your annuity to a third party. You might have to contact your insurance company in order to receive correct, up-to-date copies of your paperwork.
13. Complete the transaction. Upon submitting your paperwork and paying your fees and penalties, you will be able to receive your cash payout. Make sure that you report this income correctly during tax time and that you pay all the extra taxes on this money to avoid future penalties.
You might want to consider discussing your finances with a financial advisor to ensure that you will use and invest the cash payout properly.

Method 2 Getting Cash from a Deferred Annuity.
1. Determine what kind of annuity you hold. There are three kinds of annuity, each one of which pays out money slightly differently. The U.S. Securities and Exchange Commission (SEC) regulates all variable annuities and some index annuities. The SEC does not regulate fixed annuities.
A fixed annuity pays out a predetermined amount at specific intervals over a period of time. This amount is usually based on a specific interest rate applied to your initial investment.
An indexed annuity provides payment to the investor based on the performance of a stock market index fund (or, a fund that tracks the entire stock market performance). Most indexed annuities, however, have a set minimum for payments even if the index fund performs poorly.
A variable annuity allows the investor to choose amongst various investment vehicles, usually mutual funds. Your periodic payment will depend upon the performance of these investments.
2. Determine the type of account your annuity is held in. In addition to the different types of annuity payments, annuities can be held in various types of accounts for certain purposes. These typically include investment and retirement accounts. Both types operate generally the same way, however, they may differ in early withdrawal and tax penalties charged. Check your investment documents or retirement plan agreement to see what type of penalties and restrictions there are on your annuity.
3. Consider penalty-free early withdrawal options. Some deferred annuity policies provide an option for small cash withdrawals without extra penalties. For example, a withdrawal of 5-10% of your initial investment might be accomplished without paying a "surrender fee" to your insurance company. While taking an early withdrawal will diminish your investment's ability to grow, you might be able to get the cash you need without completely emptying your annuity.
If your annuity is part of a retirement account and you are under 59.5 years old, you might still have to pay a 10% tax to the federal government, even if you don't have to pay a penalty to your insurance company.
4. Determine your surrender period. A surrender period is the period of time after the initial purchase of the annuity where you will be charged hefty fees for cashing out your plan. A surrender period can be anywhere from 5-10 years after purchase, depending on your contract, though it is usually between 6-8 years.
If your surrender period has passed, you might be able to cash out your annuity without paying too many fees.
If your surrender period has not yet passed, you might want to consider the expenses involved before continuing the early withdrawal process.
5. Reread your annuity contract. Review the details of your annuity contract. Pay attention to the full-disclosure clause of your agreement. It’s important that you understand what portion of your annuity payments you are exchanging for a lump-sum cash payment.
6. Understand the process. If you are seeking a lump sum of cash in lieu of structured payments, you are in effect signing over to someone else all your rights to receive future annuity payments. That "someone else" is the entity giving you the lump-sum cash.
Be aware that in the long term your annuity is worth much more if you receive structured payments according to the original contract. Talk to your insurance agent to determine the exact worth of your annuity. You may decide to ride out your immediate cash-flow crisis instead of cashing in.
7. Be aware of possible financial penalties. Withdrawing cash from your annuity early can lead to hefty penalties, taxes, and fines. Be sure that you take these penalties into account before making your decision to withdraw your cash.
If your annuity is part of a retirement account and you withdraw your money before you are 59.5 years old, you will have to pay a 10% early withdrawal fee to the federal government.
If you withdraw your money within the first 5-8 years of purchase, you will likely have to pay a "surrender fee" to your insurance company. The exact fee amount depends on your contract. Many surrender fees begin at about a 7% penalty for the first year after purchase and decrease over time from there. However, some companies might charge a fee as high as 20%.
8. Research companies that offer cash in exchange for annuity payments. None will give you the full value of your future payments. They might offer anywhere from 60% to 85% of the value of your annuity. Getting 85% of your annuity’s value would be considered a fairly good offer. Since you are legally transferring your rights, you want a company that follows standard procedures and will prepare you for any required court proceedings.
9. Consult your tax attorney or financial advisor. Before agreeing to sell your annuity to a third party, consult a trusted legal or financial expert. They will help you determine your financial liability and help you navigate through the complicated contracts you might have to sign. This will help to ensure that you understand what is happening and that it is done correctly. They might also be able to help guide you to the most reputable companies that purchase annuities.
10. Collect your documents. Documents required for the sale of an annuity include two forms of identification, your initial annuity policy, and an application to sell your annuity to a third party. You might have to contact your insurance company in order to receive correct, up-to-date copies of your paperwork.
11. Complete the transaction. Upon submitting your paperwork and paying your fees and penalties, you will be able to receive your cash payout. Make sure that you report this income correctly during tax time and that you pay all the extra taxes on this money to avoid future penalties.
You might want to consider discussing your finances with a financial advisor to ensure that you will use and invest the cash payout properly.

Community Q&A.
Question : How can I get money from a union annuity?
Answer : Start by contacting your union steward.
Question : Can I cash out a fixed annuity early?
Answer : What you'll typically lose by cashing out early is a 10% penalty on the taxable portion of your annuity, forfeited to the IRS if you're under age 59½. That's in addition to the 10% federal tax penalty you'll pay on earnings if you're under age 59½.

Tips.

If you aren’t comfortable with the idea of cashing in part or all of your annuity, explore other ways you can raise cash, such as taking out a second mortgage or selling other assets. Downsizing is another way to cover a tight financial spot in your life.
Use the formulas in Discount Cash Flow to find the value of your annuity. You won't be able to sell it for full value, but you need to know what the contract is worth so that you'll know if you're getting a fair offer.

Warnings.
Consult your tax attorney or accountant before selling. If you sell too early, you may be liable for a hefty surrender charge, and if you sell before you have reached the age of 59-and-a-half, you will probably be faced with federal taxes and penalties.
Thoroughly research any company offering to purchase your annuity. You can research any formal complaints filed against a company by contacting the Better Business Bureau.[21] It’s a good idea to ask your tax accountant for recommendations as well.
Do not purchase an annuity unless you have a decent emergency savings account that you can access easily and without penalty. An annuity is not a suitable emergency fund because of the fees, delays, and hassles in receiving quick cash.
To avoid fraud, make sure you purchase an annuity from a reputable, licensed company.
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